MORNING IN PHILADELPHIA

We are hurtling westward from Atlantic City in the pre-dawn.  The fog renders the inky blackness more mysterious than it has a right to.   Ghostly clusters of deer feeding in the median and the ditch appear briefly in the dim headlights of our tiny rental.  We are speeding toward the river, and Pennsylvania.

By all rights, I should be sleeping soundly.  I want to, but I’m at the wheel.  Karen is catching a 6 a.m. flight and mine isn’t until 5 in the afternoon, by design.  I am going to spend at least the morning in Philadelphia.

Image via WikipediaThe airport is already busy as dawn breaks, and it’s unseasonably warm as I head back toward the city.  I want to drive around the city center in the luxury of no commuter traffic and get my bearings.  My short list has two items:  caffeine and the Liberty Bell.

Philadelphia’s layout is easy to grasp and there are many signs pointing the way to historical attractions.  Still, I roll to a stop at the intersection closest to the Bell itself without knowing.  It’s encased in a low, angular building the length of a long block, unseen from the street.  A state trooper-like sort with a sidearm appears on the sidewalk to my left.   He gives me, the only car in sight, more than a once over.  I feel the need to keep moving.

Image via WikipediaNow I’m heading south toward the district called Society Hill on my map.  I’m passing tiny, pre-revolutionary streets the size of alleys.  The sunlight dapples on the pavement through a surprising number of trees.  Doorways have shiny knockers and windows are adorned with boxes of flowers.  It could be a morning two hundred and fifty years ago.

I slowly drive the streets in rows, like traveling the aisles in a grocery.  This time, delectable treats and tempting wares are architectural festoons with 18th century sensibilities:  pediments and wavy glass, brass and wooden louvers, the hint of a lace curtain.  I turn northward again, giddy as a gastronome, my sugar high the sweetness of living history.

Across from the Betsy Ross house on Arch Street, I find a Starbucks just opened, coyly designed with equal parts disguise and homage to its historical building.  I find a parking spot a half block down and spot a Pug’s morning constitutional two car lengths ahead.  Fastidiously waiting on its pajama-clad owner of the baggie’d hand, it gives me a baleful look.  No matter.  It’s morning in Philadephia and I’ve now got a place to be.

I take a window seat with my chai tea to watch the neighborhood awaken.  Determined suits are emerging and heading to work  and prams are pushed by mothers in cotton skirts and sandals.  Great Danes, Labradors and other surprisingly large beasts appear on leash, ambling past.  I’m a voyeur, set up with a netbook as a decoy.  I sip and look, thinking everyone appears surprisingly relaxed for a Monday.  Perhaps it’s the sun.  Or perhaps it’s the unseasonable heat of the day to come.

Image via WikipediaStill only 7:30 a.m.  I decide to walkabout myself.  The front door to the tiny Betsy Ross house is practically on the street.  It doesn’t seem large enough to have held the flag inside.  I realize the house is part of an enclave forming around a  garden behind a picket fence.  It’s too early by far for a properly-guided visit, though, so I walk on.

This is a neighborhood of shops and small businesses.  There are newer buildings of condos in floors above, but scale and vintage has been acknowledged and honored when construction is actually new.  Warehouses and machine sheds are down alleyways, and side streets of more modest dwellings of brick, stone and wood.  I walk through the middle of a block past workmen’s vans and an air compressor’s whoosh.  There’s a charming mix of gentrification, trendy, and everyday regular.

Image via WikipediaI spy an ancient hardware store, alas not open, and several showrooms “to the trade only” with fabrics, wood furniture, and fixtures.  I pass a woman unlocking her business door between a pair of musty-looking windows in a rickety wood facade.  The tableau of dusty papers and boxes looks as if it were undisturbed for at least 50 years.  She is using a skeleton key.

It’s time to move my car.  I have no change, needed for the meter after 8 a.m.  Traffic is still light enough to pull out without waiting, and I turn left toward the city center.

I imagine I am heading south on bricks and cobbles trod by household names.  This morning they are traveled by ordinary patriots, like you and me.

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12 Responses to MORNING IN PHILADELPHIA

  1. Dot May 11, 2009 at 9:07 am #

    This made me feel like I was there. The postcard-like photos are beautiful. Thanks for the tour!

    Dot´s last blog post..April Showers and May Flowers

  2. Kim Woodbridge May 11, 2009 at 9:26 am #

    Very nice … it must have been early for you to actually find a parking spot ;-)

    And, of course, since this is my city I have a very different perspective but that is an excellent glimpse of the historical section of Philly. Thanks for helping me appreciate the things I take for granted.

    Kim Woodbridge´s last blog post..10 Things I Learned My First Week Freelancing

  3. Mark May 11, 2009 at 9:52 am #

    Philly is a great place! I love the historic districts. Sounds like you had a perfect morning for your casual tour. BTW – I just learned over the weekend, according to the Smithsonian Institute that Betsy Ross did not make the flag that is known as the Star Spangled Banner which resides in the Smithsonian.

  4. Betsy Wuebker May 11, 2009 at 9:58 am #

    Hi Dot – You’re welcome! It was a lovely morning. I lifted the photos from Wikipedia as I had no camera that day – Pete usually takes our photos. More to come on the rest of the visit.

    Hi Kim – Thank you! There was no way I was passing thru Philly without seeing the historical district. And you’re right, it was ungodly early. The Starbucks opened at six, praises be! My parking spot must’ve been vacated by a sleepover going home…or something. :D I am going to try to do the rest of my sightseeing justice in more posts. I get all choked up like a dork about our country’s history.

  5. Betsy Wuebker May 11, 2009 at 10:01 am #

    Hi Mark – Welcome to PassingThru! Yes, you’re right. The legend is in dispute! As is whether or not she actually lived in the Betsy Ross house. Makes you wonder about other folklore, doesn’t it? Thanks for coming by.

  6. Patricia May 11, 2009 at 8:39 pm #

    What a delightful morning experience. I have been to Philadelphia 2 times and never saw anything – stuck on a train in a huge snow storm and trying to take a youth group on the historic tour and I was the chaperon who had to take the 2 vomiting kids to the emergency room and then back to New Hope, which is a lovely little town.
    I was arrested in Washington DC on a civil rights march so have not seen that city either…
    Feel like I had a wee bit of a tour with your good writing and pictures – Thank you. ;)

    Patricia´s last blog post..I Love Flowers

  7. Barbara Swafford May 12, 2009 at 12:39 am #

    Hi Betsy,

    Philadelphia is a place I’ve never been to, but having heard so much about it, and reading your post, makes me want to see it. It looks phenomenal. Thank you for sharing such beautiful photos. I feel like I was there with you. .

    Barbara Swafford´s last blog post..The Secret Is Out – Our Blog Posts Are Not Being Read

  8. Christine Gallagher May 12, 2009 at 8:40 pm #

    YAY! My city! Thank you for sharing your perspective–and your writing is beautiful. :) And yes, the Liberty Bell is so unassuming from the street!

    Christine Gallagher´s last blog post..5 Crucial Facebook Privacy Settings

  9. Betsy Wuebker May 12, 2009 at 9:13 pm #

    Hi Patricia – It would have been a shame to merely fly in and out of Philadelphia without taking the extra time we had to see at least the basics. I’ve never been to Washington, D.C., either, but it’s on my list. Thank you.

    Hi Barbara – It was a wonderful morning – beautiful sun, balmy temperatures. I saw the city at its best that day. Glad I could share. Thanks.

    Hi Christine – Welcome to PassingThru! Thank you – I so hope I am doing Philadelphia what little justice my short stay inspired. More to come!

  10. Mike Goad May 16, 2009 at 4:19 am #

    Great photos!

    They look quite familiar.

    Several years ago, we visited Philadelphia for a couple of days. We got a VERY good deal through Priceline.com and stayed at a pretty nice hotel — The Inn at Penn. It was a combination business trip, sightseeing trip and visit family trip. Our son-in-law was stationed in New Jersey at the time and I had a day and a half of meetings at Three Mile Island.

    I don’t remember where we parked, probably a parking garage, but we spent several hours in the area you were in.

    Mike Goad´s last blog post..4 1/2 days offline!

  11. Betsy Wuebker May 19, 2009 at 2:51 pm #

    Hi Mike – There’s an underground garage in the Liberty Bell/Independence Hall complex. I had a scare there because the reader wouldn’t read my card, but a nice attendant helped me exit (and pay, too). These photos are courtesy of Wikipedia. I didn’t have my usual cameraman on this trip. :D

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