LAKE MINNETONKA – THE LURE AND THE LORE

In 1822, two teenage boys, Joe Brown (for whom Brown’s Bay was eventually named) and Will Snelling (whose father lent the family surname to the fort under his command on the Mississippi River) set secretly off westward in a canoe on what came to be known as Minnehaha Creek.  They were looking to discover a huge lake that they’d heard about from the Indians.

After portaging past Minnehaha Falls and the rapids at what is now the Minnetonka Mills area, the boys emerged into a large bay looking west  (the easternmost bay now known as Gray’s – double click on the map above to enlarge).  Beyond shallow waters filled with wild rice and water lilies lay another bay, and then a vista of deep water spanning over five miles from their left to their right.  This was the main Lower Lake of Minnetonka – named by the Dakota Sioux, whose tepee village was set up near what is now Wayzata, as “big water.”  The boys were later found by search party on the shore feasting on fresh fish and berries.  White settlers did not arrive until about 30 years after the boys’ escapade, when James Shaver built a cabin on the south end of Gray’s Bay.  A small lake to the southwest bears Shaver’s name nowadays.

More and more settlers came, and in the late 19th century, Lake Minnetonka drew city dwellers from Minneapolis out via a street-car and train line that followed the shoreline.  Stops such as Chowen’s Corners, Woodland, Deephaven, Minnetonka Beach, Greenwood and Wayzata discharged weary city-dwellers looking for respite from the heat, and amusement in the form of the outdoors, parks and water sports.  Summer “cottages” were built on the shore and families from as far as St. Louis made the trek to enjoy the clear waters and cool breezes.

Lake Minnetonka is by no means Minnesota’s largest inland lake, but its size is notable.  Though its water surface covers about 23 square miles, its numerous bays and inlets add up to between 125 and 150 miles of shoreline.  As such, it’s one of the most popular recreational destinations in the Twin Cities metro area.

Boasting several of Minnesota’s wealthiest zip codes, Lake Minnetonka has desirable appeal for homeowners and lake enthusiasts alike.  It’s easy to take it for granted whether you live on its shores or close by.  When my friend Judy and I ride the bike trail that skirts the lake’s southeastern shore, we often end up in the charming village of Excelsior for morning coffee, and we always make a water stop at this overlook.  I remember how fortunate I was to live in Deephaven, part of such a beautiful area, and I miss it.

Minnetonka, with pockets ranging to depths well over 70 feet, remains a fishing mecca.  Pete has organized walleye fishing tournaments with the Minnesota Twins in the past, and other celebrities routinely lend their names to bass and crappie tournaments.  Minnetonka is also home to bigger fish.  This video shows a lucky fisherman hauling in a 50″ muskie.

Just a few weeks ago, Judy and I paused our bikes to look west over the water toward Big Island from the trail at the stop pictured above.  As we watched, two excited fishermen hauled in a 52″ muskie about 50 feet from where we stood!  Hikers, runners and cyclists paused to cheer and applaud.  The big guy was measured, had his photo taken, and then was released to swim another day.  A popular legend around the lake is that “Lou,” a ten-foot sturgeon, swims in Lake Minnetonka’s depths as well.  Hmmm.  Better think twice before jumping off the boat to cool off!

Even though it takes a good hour and a half to circle Minnetonka by car, the scenic grandeur of the lake is best appreciated on the water.  If you’re not fortunate enough to live on direct lakeshore or own a boat, there are a variety of fun ways to get out on and enjoy the water.  Dinner cruises, pontoon and sailboat rentals, enormous cabin cruisers, jet skis and vintage Chris Crafts can all be found on its waters.  I wouldn’t recommend boys canoe across the lake these days – it would be like maneuvering through “Victory at Sea.”

The show from the water, in my book, takes place on land as well as aboard the wide variety of watercraft.  For me, the entertainment value is a toss-up:  On one hand you have party central – a perma-flotilla parading through Lord Fletcher’s on the Lake or moored at Big Island.  On the other you have a real estate tour that rivals anything Beverly Hills as to offer.

I really like gazing at all the opulent homes from the water.   It’s where Twin Cities’ celebrities tend to want to live, and it seems like each home is better than the last.  Evening cruises routinely last for hours, and some can be quite elegant with cocktails and fine dining aboard.

Nothing is more picturesque and reminiscent of days gone by, though, than cruising aboard the Steamship Minnehaha, recently raised from the bottom of the lake and lovingly restored as a relic from days gone by.  It’s charm is undeniable!

Back in the day, I was a member of the Lafayette Club, an historic golf and social club on the shores of Lafayette Bay.  Since the turn of the 19th century, a holiday hotel had been located on the property, and now the stately clubhouse is an elegant destination for special events, weddings and member lounging.  Several years ago, Pete and I attended a lecture by Lech Walesa in the Club ballroom.  That is a memory we will never forget.  The lion of the Solidarity movement looked as gentle as the Santa Claus who sat the children on his knee at the Club Christmas party.  What an amazing experience!

While a member of the Lafayette Club, I deluded myself into thinking I could develop my golf game.  Both of my kids were pretty good players.  I never improved, but it was fun while it lasted.  The death knell sounded when I realized my fantasies of a daughter’s wedding would most likely be marred by the contingent of her friends’ Harleys out in the valet parking area.  Of course, since she was only 10 at that time, I couldn’t foresee that the likelihood morphed into a tractor pull, given her career interests now.   Oh well, where was I? 

Oh yes, Lake Minnetonka.  The recessionary concept of “stealth wealth” takes a hiatus dockside here.  Lavish displays are not confined to the lakeshore mansions, but also are available for purview at any number of dockside venues.  Great sport can be had watching boaters with more money than experience attempt to maneuver their grossly-oversized party barges into public slips at Maynard’s (the site where legend has it the Rolling Stones played and later encountered Mr. Jimmy, a local, to immortalize him in “You Can’t Always Get What You Want”) or the Wayzata Boatworks.  Hilarious!

Lake Minnetonka is fun during winter, too.  After all, the ice fishing scenes from Grumpy Old Men were filmed right on Excelsior Bay.  And Wayzata’s “Chilly Open” features ice golf with fluorescent orange balls and ice fishing holes.  If that’s not enough, there’s always the Polar Plunge!  On New Years Day, idiots intrepid souls bare their most and jump into a frigid opening through the ice.  It must be a Scandinavian thing, right up there with saunas and snow angels, eh?

But mostly, Minnesota’s all too brief summer is the impetus for spending as much time along or on Lake Minnetonka as possible.  Even if you live in the city, it’s worth it to jump in the car and spend the day.

Happy Hour, anyone?

Image Credits:  Per hyperlink

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