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A Bit of Bohemia in Brisbane: The West End

By Betsy Wuebker 60 Comments

(Last Updated On: January 29, 2020)

The West End, an inner ring suburb with a quick commute to the city proper or the slick South Bank, is an entirely different world: a bit of Bohemia in Brisbane.

Brisbane is first and foremost a river town. The Brisbane River cuts through southeast Queensland for a couple hundred miles before emptying into Moreton Bay, its last few serpentine twists defining the city. Just short of what is now Brisbane’s central business district, the river turns upon itself and turns back again, creating a tomahawk shaped almost-island. The West End, within walking distance of the slicker South Bank area on the same promontory of land, is an entirely different world, a bit of Bohemia in Brisbane.

a bit of Bohemia in Brisbane

The West End occupies a portion of a peninsula located south of Brisbane’s CBD

We landed in the West End almost by accident, securing a stay in a beautifully remodeled Queenslander through Airbnb. Our hosts, both cinematographers, had completed renovations by instilling a funky, colorful decor spanning three different centuries and multiple continents.

a bit of Bohemia in Brisbane

Plantation House Airbnb in West End

This charming irreverence, we would discover, perfectly augmented the vibrant, multi-cultural experience we would have in our new temporary neighborhood.

Invariably, neighborhoods around the globe draw travelers in by showing us who we could be if we lived there. Our illusion might be anything from chic Parisian to artisan in Santa Fe. In the West End, there’s more than a little bit of Bohemia to fuel the fantasy of becoming almost anyone, along with the certainty if you didn’t find the persona you first adopted to your liking, it could easily be shed in favor of another without remark.

Textured with different ethnicities, visitors and residents alike indulge in West End’s bohemian atmosphere at the retail crucible of Boundary and Vulture Streets. All in the space of a few blocks, boutiques, bistros and services co-exist in a cacophony of color and sound.

a bit of Bohemia in Brisbane

Boundary and Vulture – the heart of the West End Photo Credit: visitbrisbane.com.au

Clusters of ethnic restaurants and cafes amid blocks on Hardgrave or Montague Roads flavor individual neighborhoods within the district. In the space of a few blocks from our Airbnb digs we could choose from Chinese, Greek, Vietnamese, Turkish, Thai and Japanese cuisine. Across Hardgrave Road from our location was a small street named “Whyย Not” – which is just the way things go in the West End.

a bit of Bohemia in Brisbane

Why Not, Indeed?

There’s a thrifted, repurposed vibe in the West End that brings out its beautifully honest historic patina in juxtaposition with the new. And there’s plenty of new happening, not without controversy. Mid-rise flats along the Vulture Street corridor or closer to the river are unaffordable for working class residents. The renovation our hosts did wouldn’t have been feasible unless they incorporated rooms to let as part of the deal. Narrow secondary streets sport residences in various states of well-being, from complete deshabille to newly refurbished.

Even though the West End’s traditional industrial heritage is being chipped away by urban renewal, there are large remnants of working-class Brisbane still left in the neighborhood. SaveWestEnd.org, a movement to encourage appropriate development with funded commitments to infrastructure improvements and continuous riverside open space, has been a vocal opponent of the City Council’s South Brisbane Renewal Strategy. The City Council has more recently announced new riverfront projects that will rise higher than previous limits. The view from our Airbnb’s verandah is due to drastically change.

a bit of Bohemia in Brisbane

Verandah view to the rivers edge

The few days we enjoyed in Brisbane’s West End were memorable because of the residents. Without fail, everyone we met loved their neighborhood passionately.

a bit of Bohemia in Brisbane

Pete and the tall proprietor of Mick’s Nuts

Business was bustling, even with the January post-holiday doldrums. Getting around is easy, whether you’re walking, taking public transportation, or grabbing a bike for hire at any number of stations.

a bit of Bohemia in Brisbane

Rent a bike for a short distance and drop it at another kiosk, get another when you need one

But still, there was a pall hanging over the pleasantries. You get the impression of a sunset clause on what once was. Certainly the West End won’t be entirely the same in a very short amount of time. Let’s hope the gentrification and upscaling doesn’t completely sanitize the funky, bohemian vibe of this lovely little world inside a wonderful city.

Tips and information:

An easy evening’s amble down Boundary will put you into several distinctive watering holes. Try the Lychee Lounge.ย You won’t know you were looking for something that looks like anย opium den – complete with absinthe dispenser – disguised as a cocktail bar with light dinner fare, snacks and share plates. But after it’s all said and done, you’ll feel like a regular hipster.

a bit of Bohemia in Brisbane
Absinthe at Lychee Lounge
a bit of Bohemia in Brisbane
Vintage Absinthe Dispenser
a bit of Bohemia in Brisbane
Choose your absinthe at Lychee Lounge

If your type is more books and brew, your man at Archive Beer Boutiqueย will help you select amongst 22 rotating draft beers or more than 400 domestics and imports in the bottle. Archive’s bistro menu is even more well-priced on Wednesdays, when there’s a 2-for-1 special.

a bit of Bohemia in Brisbane

Inside Archive Beer Boutique

The Lock’n’Load Bistroย isn’t a place for gun slingers as much as it is to enjoy a variety of live music ranging from jazz to party to local talent. Indoor dining gives a nod to yesteryear, outdoor garden dining is tranquil. After work drinks include free happy hour menu.

Duck into any number of funky little holes in the wall on Boundary Street for a drink. Most of them open up into secret gardens or connect to back rooms in an interesting warren of spaces to hang out.

On Hardgrave Road, Lefkas Taverna is a neighborhood icon, serving traditional Greek cuisine in a small village atmosphere. Further up toward Vulture, an Art Decoย movie theater is newly reincarnated into a complex of ethnic restaurants. You could choose a different one for each day of the week.

At the corner of Hardgrave and Vulture, the one and only Mick’s Nutsย is a treasure trove of bulk organic nuts, mueslis, dried fruits, chocolates, snack mixes and baking ingredients. A family business for three generations, Mick’s has even hosted secret shoppers from Britain’s Royal Family on behalf of Aย Certain Someone.

a bit of bohemia in Brisbane

The one and only Mick’s Nuts

Our Airbnb was peaceful and reasonably priced, with every conceivable comfort wrapped up in a bright, shiny and spotless package. Hostess Meg was delightfully friendly and unobtrusive. Housemates were internationalย students finishing up a custom online project for university. There was plenty of room to spread out in the common areas and get work done, and each room had its own en suite bath.ย Use our discount code to get $25 off your first Airbnb stay.

Tips for Trip Success

Book Your Flight
Find an inexpensive flight by using CheapOAir, a favorite of ours because it regularly returns less expensive flight options from a variety of airlines.

Book Your Hotel or Special Accommodation
We are big fans of Booking.com. We like their review system and photos. If we want to see more reviews and additional booking options, we go to TripAdvisor.

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Filed Under: Australia, Oceania, Travel Tagged With: Australia

Comments

  1. Suze the Luxury Columnist says

    March 9, 2015 at 12:54 am

    Looks like you found a lovely apartment to stay in! We have a West End in London, it’s the place where all the theatres are located

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      March 9, 2015 at 3:32 pm

      Hi Suze – Yes, we’d definitely stay at the Plantation Cottage again. Very comfortable and affordable. ๐Ÿ™‚

      Reply
  2. Irene S. Levine says

    March 9, 2015 at 3:03 pm

    Sounds like such a fun neighborhood to explore! First time, I ever heard of an absinthe dispenser. How funky and fun!

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      March 9, 2015 at 3:36 pm

      Hi Irene – Yes, isn’t that fun? The silver lady on the dispenser looked like a 30’s hood ornament. The process is really slowly dripping iced water from the dispenser over a sugar cube which rests on a slotted spoon, to sweeten and dilute the absinthe. I couldn’t believe I guessed what it was for; such a beautiful antique.

      Reply
  3. Shelley says

    March 9, 2015 at 4:20 pm

    Even I could be a West End hipster in Brisbane?! My kids won’t believe it but I’m sold. ๐Ÿ™‚ Looks like a great Airbnb stay and a fun area.

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      March 10, 2015 at 8:55 am

      Hi Shelley – Yes, indeed! We felt we shed decades ourselves hanging out in all the fun places! ๐Ÿ™‚

      Reply
  4. Paula McInerney says

    March 9, 2015 at 4:59 pm

    Like Newtown in Sydney, and Shoreditch in London these places become discovered, gentrified but .. still do retain much of their original charm. I love boho chic places and your airbnb place is so unique. I love it and hope that the West End retains its charms.

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      March 10, 2015 at 8:56 am

      Hi Paula – Yes, we’re hoping there is a balance between the improvements and maintaining the magnetic atmosphere in the neighborhood.

      Reply
  5. Suzanne Fluhr says

    March 9, 2015 at 6:43 pm

    It sounds as though you were in Brisbane long enough to absorb and understand the vibe. One great advantage of knowing the language of a place, is the ability to understand what the locals are chatting about and to read the local newspapers. It certainly seems like you had your ear to the ground and were able to grasp what your neighborhood was all about.

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      March 10, 2015 at 8:57 am

      Hi Suzanne – Very true about sharing the language, although we were “outed” as Yanks the minute we opened our mouths. We could easily imagine ourselves living there for an extended period of time.

      Reply
  6. Josie says

    March 9, 2015 at 9:15 pm

    Hi Betsy,

    Only in Australia would you find Why Not? Street! And I agree with Suzanne above who complimented you on paying attention to the local news. Airbnb helps with that too! Having local hosts with which to share lives and info, you get a better travel experience.
    Thanks Betsy. I can always count on a full and interesting post from you!
    Wishing you happy and safe travels,
    Josie

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      March 10, 2015 at 8:58 am

      Hi Josie – Yes, the Why Not Street was hilarious. I was so glad Pete snapped that photo. The West End is the kind of neighborhood where you get your news pasted on a telephone pole. It reminded me so much of other fun neighborhoods I lived in when in my 20’s.

      Reply
  7. Anita @ No Particular Place To Go says

    March 10, 2015 at 4:09 am

    What a great neighborhood you found and it’s fun to live locally exploring the area and streets and developing nodding relationships with your neighbors and businesses. I’d love to live on a street named, “Why Not?” A great philosophy.

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      March 10, 2015 at 9:03 am

      Hi Anita – Oh, wouldn’t it be fun to live on Why Not Street? Way better than Journey’s End, which is up by our cabin in Northern Minnesota! LOL

      Reply
  8. Nancie says

    March 10, 2015 at 7:55 am

    What a great looking neighborhood. Hopefully, along with the changes (which can be a good thing), the its personality and charm will remain intact.

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      March 10, 2015 at 9:04 am

      Hi Nancie – I think the vocal concerns of current residents have been heard, somewhat. It’s hard to say no to developer money and potential tax revenues, but hopefully there will be a balance.

      Reply
  9. noel says

    March 10, 2015 at 10:32 am

    A very cool and fun place to visit indeed, I really love the vibe here!

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      March 11, 2015 at 2:10 pm

      Hi Noel – You’d get along in the West End like a house afire. ๐Ÿ™‚

      Reply
  10. Susan Moore says

    March 10, 2015 at 11:40 am

    Brisbane West End looks like it has a great vibe, and a lot of character. Anyplace with a street named Why Not has got to be good for some fun I think.

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      March 11, 2015 at 2:08 pm

      Hi Susan – Yes, it’s a fabulous, funky little neighborhood. Kind of like a cool kid who is even more so because they are unpretentious. ๐Ÿ™‚

      Reply
  11. The GypsyNesters says

    March 10, 2015 at 1:01 pm

    Very nice! We didn’t get to spend nearly enough time in Brisbane when we visited. Guess we have to go back.

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      March 11, 2015 at 2:07 pm

      Hi Gypsynesters – We’d like to return to Brisbane, too. A very livable city.

      Reply
  12. Linda ~ Journey Jottings says

    March 9, 2015 at 10:13 pm

    West End is so close to Brisbane city and even closer to South Bank where you find the Gallery of Modern Art so its a perfect place for arty types to congregate – hence its bohemian feel – West End really does have a character all of its own –
    And aren’t those louvre windows from your accommodation so evocative of a Queenslander building ๐Ÿ™‚

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      March 10, 2015 at 9:00 am

      Hi Linda – Yes, the Queenslander is a new love of mine. We saw so many that had been reverentially restored in our Toowoomba neighborhood. It was such a treat to stay in this one. Watching passersby from the verandah was better than TV! ๐Ÿ™‚

      Reply
  13. Patti Morrow says

    March 10, 2015 at 12:04 am

    It’s great to find not-the-ordinary places to stay, especially when they are within walking distance to other things to do. Looks like you found a great neighborhood!

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      March 10, 2015 at 9:00 am

      Hi Patti – Should we return to Brisbane, I’d want to repeat the stay all over again. ๐Ÿ™‚

      Reply
  14. Suzanne Stavert says

    March 10, 2015 at 1:55 am

    Betsy, you really did an outstanding job immersing yourself into the local scene. You have found some amazing places to eat and to relax and enjoy! When we visited Brisbane we had only one day to go to the city, we spent it at the riverbank. It is also very beautiful, but not quite like the charming location you stayed. I also think your Air BnB looked super cool!

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      March 10, 2015 at 9:02 am

      Hi Suzanne – We spent a day at the South Bank, too, and it’s within walking distance of the West End. It was happy serendipity (and truth be told a budget to stick to) that led us to the Airbnb and this fun, funky neighborhood. We wouldn’t dream of staying anywhere else upon return.

      Reply
  15. santafetraveler says

    March 10, 2015 at 10:40 am

    I love your Brisbane digs! I’ve never done airbnb, but that makes it look VERY inviting!

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      March 11, 2015 at 2:09 pm

      Hi Billie – You would love this place. It was so hip, but so comfortable. A joy to stay there.

      Reply
  16. Michele Peterson says

    March 10, 2015 at 10:33 am

    Brisbane sounds like a fascinating city! Having grown up in a river town myself I can imagine, from your descriptions, how liveable it must be with those views and outdoor activities. I hope it is able to retain its unique charm as it develops. One of my first stops would be the Archive Beer Boutique and its selection of 22 rotating draft beers!

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      March 11, 2015 at 2:10 pm

      Hi Michele – I kept wondering how long it would take to sample each one of those beers. I think they have some sort of prize if you have. ๐Ÿ™‚

      Reply
  17. Yasha Langford says

    March 11, 2015 at 2:54 am

    A great piece about the West End – I love reading about places in Australia that I know and love. When we first lived in Byron Bay we would go to Brisbane occasionally for a weekend and almost always ended up in the West End for at least a dinner.
    You captured its heart and soul. Thanks

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      March 11, 2015 at 2:07 pm

      Hi Yasha – Wow, thank you so much. We felt so at home in this neighborhood. I’m so pleased that we delivered with someone who knows it so well.

      Reply
  18. A Cook Not Mad (Nat) says

    March 11, 2015 at 5:35 am

    What a great neighbourhood, I need to move to Why Not Street!

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      March 11, 2015 at 2:05 pm

      Hi Nat – I know, right?! Too fun!

      Reply
  19. Carole Terwilliger Meyers says

    March 11, 2015 at 10:52 am

    Your Air B&B experience in the West End sound great! The apartment had me at the heart cake pans on the wall. Great decor. ๐Ÿ™‚

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      March 11, 2015 at 2:05 pm

      Hi Carole – Yes, the host has a cinematographer’s eye for color and combinations. Truly a unique property.

      Reply
  20. Lexi says

    March 11, 2015 at 6:09 pm

    This is my city! I’m gad you liked West end, I used to go to a club named Uber there all the time. If you’re still in brisbane i recommend checking out Moreton Island (snorkel next to ship wrecks) or diving the shipwreck in redcliff (if you dive).

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      March 12, 2015 at 10:50 am

      Hi Lexi – We’ve moved on from Brisbane, sadly, but we now have yet another reason to return with your recommendation. Thanks! ๐Ÿ™‚

      Reply
  21. Carol Colborn says

    March 12, 2015 at 1:27 am

    You write so well Betsy! Sometimes I wonder if the places you talk about are really as alive, stunning or thought-provoking as you write about them. But then again I think that you do also choose the places you write about well. I had not considered Brisbane among the likes of Sydney, Melbourne,, Canberra, or Adelaide, even Perth or Darwin (I’ve only been to the first two).

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      March 12, 2015 at 10:53 am

      Hi Carol – Wow, thank you so much! There’s certainly so much more we could have seen in Australia so we feel fortunate to have had the lovely experiences we’ve written about.

      Reply
  22. Tracie Howe says

    March 11, 2015 at 12:30 pm

    Sounds like a fun place to visit! I love the bike rental idea. Seattle is just starting to do this too!

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      March 11, 2015 at 2:04 pm

      Hi Tracie – I think if I lived there full time it would be my preferred transportation!

      Reply
  23. Doreen Pendgracs says

    March 11, 2015 at 10:56 pm

    I’v e never been to Brisbane, but your post and superb pics sure make me want to go. Thx for sharing, Betsy!

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      March 12, 2015 at 10:51 am

      Hi Doreen – You’d have a marvelous time. Brisbane is a wonderful city overall, not just this neighborhood. ๐Ÿ™‚

      Reply
  24. Kristin Henning says

    March 12, 2015 at 11:35 pm

    What a find! Your Brisbane West End experience is the best sort of argument for using AirBnB and its ilk. I didn’t catch how long you were there, but it sounds so inviting. And it has a river!

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      March 13, 2015 at 1:34 pm

      Hi Kristin – We were actually there twice, bookending a house sit. The Airbnb stay was for three days. I could have easily stayed there a month. The vibe is very much like South Minneapolis with a bit of the North Loop thrown in. You’d love it.

      Reply
  25. Johanna says

    March 12, 2015 at 2:22 pm

    So glad you had a great time in Brisvegas! I love it there. The climate, the vibe and the things to do north and south. The South Bank is one of my fave places too ๐Ÿ™‚

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      March 13, 2015 at 1:31 pm

      Hi Johanna – LOL is that what we should be calling it? Not sure about that, but definitely we love Brisbane.

      Reply
  26. Jackie Smith says

    March 13, 2015 at 6:30 am

    I’ve still not gotten my mind wrapped around Air B and B’s but this post has me at least thinking it would be worth a consideration. Fun post and loved the photos.

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      March 13, 2015 at 1:35 pm

      Hi Jackie – We’re latecomers to Airbnb, too, but we’re definitely sold. Exceptional experiences in Fiji and Australia both.

      Reply
  27. Peter Wuebker says

    March 14, 2015 at 9:22 am

    I miss the nuts and when we return some day Mick’s Nuts will be my first stop.
    Airport –>Mick’s Nuts.

    Reply
  28. Brianna says

    March 14, 2015 at 11:25 pm

    I love discovering the artsy neighborhoods in any city I visit- you get to meet such interesting people!

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      March 15, 2015 at 10:47 am

      Hi Brianna – You can say that again! The West End is full of unconventional spirits!

      Reply
  29. Andrew says

    March 16, 2015 at 9:42 am

    So many people must have touched Mick’s Nuts of an afternoon!

    Reply
  30. Jowita says

    March 15, 2015 at 10:45 pm

    Seems like a perfect place to live for me ๐Ÿ™‚ Glad to hear you had good experience with airbnb. I would love to check Archive Beer Boutique out!

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      March 16, 2015 at 9:43 am

      Hi Jowita – Yes, we thought it would be lots of fun to live in the West End, too. ๐Ÿ™‚

      Reply
  31. alison @GreenWithRenvy says

    March 16, 2015 at 10:27 am

    You have such a gift for really immersing yourself in the local culture. It will be interesting to see how the whole airbnb concept plays out. I haven’t stayed in one yet, but know a few people who have joined in to rent rooms in their houses. This one looks like a great find.

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      March 16, 2015 at 12:28 pm

      Hi Alison – Thank you! We don’t know anyone who has decided to host, except the folks we have rented from, of course. You’d have to have a setup that was conducive for it for sure.

      Reply

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Aloha! We’re Betsy and Pete Wuebker. We traveled the world full time for close to four years and have visited almost 50 countries. If you’re a curious and thoughtful traveler, you’re in the right place. No matter if you’re new to travel or an old hand, we can help you refine your bucket list!

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