I spent a few days last week with my Uncle Jack, my late mother’s oldest brother, at the tail end of a longer trip visiting family. Jack and his late wife retired years ago to Suttons Bay, in Leelanau County, Michigan. They had grown up sailing on Lake Huron out of Alpena. Grand Traverse Bay proved a fine day’s outing on the water, as well as a peaceful easterly view from their new home.
Both my Uncle Jack and my cousin Joan participated in sailing a two-masted schooner, the Inland Seas, which is now used for educational purposes, into its new berth in Suttons Bay Marina, where Joan lived summers aboard a small sailboat with her then-husband and young son. When you live in Leelanau County, you’re never far from the water, and that suited everyone just fine.
If you’re raised in the Lower Peninsula of Michigan like I was, or if you live there now, you’re used to illustrating any kind of whereabouts by holding your hand up to replicate the mitten. Collectively, Lower Peninsula residents have been referred to as “trolls” by Yoopers (those residing in the U.P., Upper Peninsula), because, of course, we live under the (Mackinac) Bridge. Whatever. Saginaw, we’ll show you, is in the thumb and forefinger’s crotch. Detroit is the fleshy part between the thumb and wrist, Alpena is at the tip of the index finger, and Leelanau County is the pinky. The upper part of the mitten is referred to as Northern Michigan. All of this seems very confusing trying to explain it. I guess that’s why we talk with the hand. 🙂
Leelanau County is a peninsula within a peninsula. The scenery and terrain combine with history to create a romantic and magical experience. Equal parts charming and elegant, windswept and harshly beautiful, sheltered and exposed, Leelanau is home to sailors, fishermen, farmers, artisans, naturalists, vintners, lighthouse keepers and Native Americans. Its villages appear untouched by modern sprawl, hearkening back to a simpler time when screen doors slammed in the summertime, and sleighbells jingled in fresh snowfall.
Prior to the middle of the 19th century, Leelanau County was home to the Anishinaabek for thousands of years. Their site tells of how they, who knew themselves simply as “The People,” were named by the white man:
We have always been a nation, and we knew one another as the Anishinaabek. It was not until the French and European settlers arrived on this part of the continent that we became known as the tribes now called Ojibwe, Odawa and Bodwe’aadamiinh. I heard an elder speak about this in his teachings. . . Sure enough, the day arrived when a ship brought people. These people knew very little of our culture and language. They asked if they could meet with the elders, and so the meeting began. Shortly after the meeting began, a group of men got up and left. The settlers asked, “What are they doing?” although they thought they were asking, “Who are they?” So we told them what they were doing. They were going to build lodges: the Ojibwek. The meeting went on and another group of men got up and left, and again the same question was asked. We told them they were going to trade: the Odawak. Now remember, they could not speak our language very well, nor did we understand their language very well. After the meeting ended, the settlers saw young men picking up firewood and putting wood in the fire. The same question was asked, and we answered that they were the fire keepers: the Bodwe’aadamiinhk. History moves on a few hundred years, and now we find out in the history books that the native people of the Great Lakes area are known as the Chippewa [Ojibwe or Ojibwa], the Ottawa and the Pottawattamii.
Uncle Jack, my cousin Joan and I visited the Eyaawing Museum and Cultural Center in Peshawbestown, just north of Suttons Bay. Eyaawing means “who we are” in the Anishinaabemowin language, and the building is spiritually designed using sacred colors and symbols. Sited so its entrance is oriented toward the sunrise over Grand Traverse Bay, the center features exhibits, books and art that reflect the native culture and history. Click the photo to enlarge and see how beautiful this building is.
Jack wanted us to see the centerpiece of the museum: two eagles forever locked in battle. It is believed the pair were in combat and flew into a power line. Their talons were still intertwined when they fell. Other exhibits were fascinating: an ancient wooden dugout canoe unearthed from the shallows along the shoreline, regalia worn for pow-wow, and a medicine wheel representing the seven sacred directions and the teachings of the Seven Grandfathers.
Driving along the shoreline just past the museum in Peshawbestown toward Omena, we spotted a small hand-lettered sign, “Fresh Fish.” Down a small path we encountered some young men from the tribe who had been out on the bay earlier in the day with their nets. One of them expertly filleted and iced two whitefish, which Joan later broiled with butter, lemon and rosemary.
Leelanau County may be best known for Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, one of two designated in the state of Michigan. (We visited the other, Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore out of Munising, last year in this post and gallery).
Native legend has it that the dunes came to be as a mother bear and her two cubs swam eastward across Lake Michigan. The cubs, tiring before they reached the shore, were turned by the Great Spirit into North and South Manitou Islands. The grieving mother bear rests forever under the sands, which the wind sent by the Great Spirit blew to cover her. Kathy-Jo Wargin has written a lovely children’s book, Legend of the Sleeping Bear that tells the story.
A gravity-defying bound down the 110 foot drop of the main dune toward the water is a favorite childhood memory of mine. One of the prettiest beaches on Lake Michigan shoreline and an impossibly beautiful Glen Lake have been shaped by geological force along the 31 mile stretch of protected shore. Glacial cliffs and moraines provide spectacular vistas among the over 100 miles of hiking and cross-country skiing trails. The so-called “Lake Effect” brings lots of snow to West Michigan, so winter sports and activities abound in Leelanau.
Each village in Leelanau County has its own special character. Suttons Bay, where Uncle Jack lives, is a short jaunt up M22 from Traverse City to gallery hop and shop for avant garde clothing. The Manitou Islands Memorial Society has as its mission the preservation of the former boom town on South Manitou, where steamships stopped for farming, fishing and timber. Fishtown at Leland is the commercial fishing village comprised of grey shanties clustered around docks and drying nets. The Fishtown Preservation Society purchased most of the buildings and has begun preservation efforts conjoined with retail outlets on site to preserve the character and flavor by using historic guidelines and repairing tugboats into working shape.
Michigan’s state stone, the Petoskey stone, is a fossil comprised of interlocking hexagonal chambers. Each chamber, called an eye, represents a coral’s mouth. When the coral was alive, it drew in plankton via tentacles around the eye. Petoskey stones were very common along the beaches of Lake Michigan when I was a kid. Winter storms still fling them on the beaches of Lake Michigan, but to a lesser extent. Looking for Petoskey stones in Leelanau is like looking for shells on Sanibel. Everyone does it!
The fruits of Leelanau are primarily cherries and grapes. More tart cherries are grown in Leelanau County than any other county in the United States. Half of all Michigan sweet cherries are grown in Leelanau County as well. Farms in Leelanau county employ more than 1200 people and bring in over $30 million each year in direct processing, and an additional $20 million in processing. Truck farms in Leelanau provide fruits and vegetables in abundance – asparagus, peas, rhubarb, radishes, salad vegetables, fruits, peas, berries apples and pumpkins. On my way to Uncle Jack’s, I stopped at a roadside market. The young children manning the stand introduced me to a sugar tomato, a small yellow tomato as sweet as I’d ever tasted. The 9 year old proudly informed me he’d just picked it, and advised washing the rest when I got them home.
Leelanau is also a significant wine producing region. Cool weather grapes thrive in Leelanau’s “terroir.” In the spring, the cooling Lake Effect from Lake Michigan prevents the wines against growth until after the final frost. Then the warmth of summer is stored in the lake, and emanates onto the land, moderating temperature extremes from day to night. Lake Effect snows insulate the vines in winter. Leelanau has over 1000 acres planted in vines today. One of our favorites is “Winter White,” a sweet and light fruity blend from Leelanau Cellars.
Uncle Jack made a wise decision all those years ago when he retired to Leelanau County. A more desirable lifestyle would be hard to find. Life in Leelanau is simple and friendly. The surroundings are spectacular, and there is plenty to keep you busy. History and beauty await you around every bend, and the county villages are charming and scenic.
You get the sense that nothing has really changed much in Leelanau County, and that’s a good thing. Climb up to a high point, whether it’s the top of Sleeping Bear, or the Empire Bluffs, or Dumas Point, and you’re the King of all you survey. Grab an ice cream with your kids, spit a few cherry pits for distance, and grill some fish under the stars.
Your cares are all somewhere else when you find yourself in lovely Leelanau.
Photo Credits:
Frozen Bay Pruning Vines – farlane
Sutton’s Bay – lpwines
Eeyaawing Museum and Eagles – gtbindians.org
Video and other photos – Apture
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I love how Winter looks through photos and that’s as close as I want to be to them
🙂
Leelanau looks like a wonderful place.
.-= Jim Gaudet´s last blog ..Link Building | SEO Tuesday =-.
It would be fascinating to live on a mitten! It all looks lovely, Betsy, and I love the photos – especially the stones and the little snowy scene. It all seems like a different world from over here – spose it more or less is, actually.
.-= Robin´s last blog ..Janni Lloyd, An Aussie Immortalist =-.
What a lovely tribute to Michigan during these hard economic times! Thanks, Betsy!
I enjoyed this read and history lesson today and the lovely pictures. I am forwarding on to my kiddo who is back to Ann Arbor this week. She went camping some place in the upper mitten area last spring, I can not remember now.
You just write so nicely and I feel like I too have had a pleasant sojourn for the day – Thank you
.-= Patricia´s last blog ..I Spy…Beauty =-.
Hi Betsy – It looks like a beautiful place. You’ve found me another place in the US to visit. I’m leaning towards emigrating to Southern Ontario now, so Michigan would be a handy road trip.
Those eagles are amazing. They must have been really determined to beat one another.
Sounds like a great place to retire. Very beautiful and simple.
Oh Betsy,
I was laughing as you told the part about “the hand”. I was nodding and saying “ja”. 🙂 Now, I didn’t know those from the LP are called “Trolls”. I, as a Yooper, used to just say “they live in the Lower Peninsula” – and then put up my hand to show where.
I’ve never been there, but Leelanau County looks to be a beautiful place. Being close to the water like that would be fabulous.
I agree with Mary Hoffman (previous comment). This post is a lovely tribute to economically hard hit Michigan. You’ve made the Michiganers proud.
.-= Barbara Swafford´s last blog ..Readers vs Bots – Making Everyone Happy =-.
Hi Jim – It is really lovely in all four seasons. I’m sure County residents would love to have you visit any time. 🙂
Hi Robin – They’re actually pruning the grape vines in the snow. I didn’t know you could do that. Our family jokes how Uncle Jack always wants to bring Leelanau wine to events. I happen to like the ones I’ve tried. Petoskey stones are harder and harder to find nowadays. When I was a kid it seemed they were all over the shoreline. I saw some large polished ones for sale and they were going for about $50 apiece. Thanks.
Hi Mary – Thank you! Yes, I am so worried about “my Michigan.” It has been very hard hit and it is difficult for the rest of us to imagine the magnitude. People are resourceful, though. My cousin Mary has opened a business, and her marketing ideas are very focused. I hope innovation rules the day and perhaps Michigan could break out of its one-industry perception. Thanks.
Hi Patricia – Ann Arbor is a lovely town, too. My brother likes to attend U of M football games. Here in Minnesota, I refer to it as the “real” U of M, not the University of Minnesota imposter. 🙂 Thanks.
Hi Cath – Depending upon which part of Ontario, you will find similar scenery along much of the Great Lakes. There are circle tours of each of the Great Lakes and one of all of them for travel by car. Pete and I have been thinking about doing the Lake Superior one, which includes parts of Ontario. We regularly traveled to Stratford for the Shakespeare plays when I was young, and my parents’ dear friends are still in Owen Sound. Just come across the bridge in Port Huron, Windsor or Sault Ste. Marie and you’re on your way! Keep us posted on your plans. Thanks.
Hi Dot – Yes, it’s the ideal place to retire if you want four seasons. For me, a week or two in someplace warm in January and the rest of the year in Leelanau would be heavenly. Thank you.
Hi Barbara – It’s true about “the hand,” isn’t it! LOL Even though I was raised in Southwest Michigan, I feel more “at home” in Northern Michigan and the U.P. now – probably because of living in Minnesota.
One thing I really yearn for is big water. We’ve got big lakes in and around Minneapolis (like Minnetonka) but my money is on the Great Lakes. There is something about viewing and orienting yourself to that expanse of fresh water that goes on forever.
It seems to me that if one was in the internet business and/or location independent, certain areas of Michigan would be ideal: real estate and overall cost of living is low, low, low. In smaller towns, I was shocked to learn you can purchase a home for the same amount of money a nice new car would cost you. If you wanted to get into residential real estate investing and be a landlord, your business entry cost would be minuscule by comparison to other areas. Always something to think about. Thanks.
Hello Everyone – Here is a good article on some of the economic woes Michigan is facing from the Wall Street Journal:
http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052970204313604574328792152010638.html
It does sound like a great place to retire too.
I would certainly like to live in a place of sleigh bells and quainter times. And run pell mell down a 110 foot dune. I was surprised at how much sand there is, I thought sand like that was reserved for oceans — not lakes. Educational!
And the mitten map makes me wonder if Italians hold up their thigh-high boot to point out where they live?
.-= Jannie Funster´s last blog ..Viral Mirth =-.
Hi Betsy. I’ve been racing around this morning packing and so glad I read this post. It made me slow down and relax… like you were reading a bedtime story 🙂 I’m serious! Enjoyed the video, the scenery AND the music. This is an amazing post. You have put so much information and detail into this and it read like poetry. Brilliant.
.-= Davina´s last blog ..At the End of the Day =-.
Hi Vered – Yes, it’s just as lovely as it can be. Thank you.
Hi Jannie – There is a lot of sand – it must’ve been one big bear to cover! 🙂 I never thought about the Italians doing that. I wonder if Sicilians feel they’re always getting kicked in the arse? 😀 Thanks.
Hi Davina – I’m so glad you enjoyed it! I hope you have a wonderful time at your respite, which looks heavenly and relaxing as well. “See” you when you get back! 🙂
Betsy, my first stop at your blog and I find this. Holy Synchroncity! I live on “the Mitten” and look at my front window across the Bay to the Leelanau Peninsula. It is a beautiful place to live and be and breathe. Thanks for featuring it. I followed your thread from Lances’ blog (Megan’s post) as I loved your response to her. You are a most soulful woman! Blessings all around.
Hi Jan – Welcome to another Michigan person! I’m envious of you and that westerly view. Thank you for the compliments – we hope you’re enticed to stick around. 🙂
I love the word “arse” 🙂 Don’t hear it near enough here in the States, not the South, anyway.
And that’s so cool Jan came over at my behest, because I was pretty-sure she lives on the mitten too.
tally-hoo for today.
Fannie Junster
🙂
.-= Fannie Junster´s last blog ..It’s All Picnics And Cartwheels Until The Fire Ants Bite =-.
Fannie Junster, LOL. When are we going to get too old for arse and fart jokes? Never, I hope. Thanks for the referral. I’m sure Jan’s delighted to know a couple more 9 year olds. 😀