Photo Credit: Fulemule
An unexpected recommendation from a Kauai friend for traditional Hungarian Jewish food, Fülemüle was his favorite restaurant in Budapest. Now it’s ours.
On our second full day in Budapest, we still felt rather disoriented in the city. Coming from Vienna, whose luxurious ways had been intimidating and intoxicating at the same time, Budapest at first seemed like a shabby lady past her prime. Ensconced in a disappointing hotel, and confused by the unfamiliar Hungarian language, we looked forward to traditional Hungarian Jewish food. Even so, I hesitantly phoned Fülemüle, the restaurant our friend in Hanalei had rhapsodized from fond memories. Fortunately, my tremulous request to speak English was kindly answered in the affirmative and we obtained a reservation.
Hailing a cab from our hotel, we quickly left the brightly-lit Grand Boulevard (Terez korut). Drivers in Budapest careen through a confusing maze of one-way streets and traffic circles; they can make a hair-raising horror show out of the most mundane set of directions. On this night in early February, the side streets of Pest were dark and gloomy, adding to the sense of danger. I fantasized that we were being chased by the KGB in order to suppress the real terror that began to build. Whipping back and forth, sudden turns and slamming on the brakes, our man did the stereotype proud. Later, aboard the night train to Bucharest, we heard a fellow traveler’s tale of being hit and dragged from a pedestrian cross-walk. Fortunately, his shredded jeans were the only casualty; the driver had sped on without stopping.
Turning down a seemingly lifeless angled side street (Kofarago utca), I was filled with even more foreboding. Perhaps this was it for us. Creeping slowly along, our cabbie appeared intent on encountering something yet unseen. We stopped in front of an unassuming doorway, dimly lit, inches from the curb. Was this Fülemüle? Who knew? We were just glad to pay the maniac off and take our chances on foot. Hesitantly, we opened the door.
Photo Credit: Fulemule Restaurant
The warm aromas emanating from the kitchen wafted toward us, enveloping our relief in extra layers of reassurance. Ahead of us was a small bar area with caramel-toned burled wood, gleaming, and a white-aproned host, beaming. “Welcome,” he smiled, “to Fülemüle. Please, let me show you how to sit down.”
Restaurant Interior Photo Credit: Fulemule
Main dining area – our table was next to the curio cabinet at the back, Photo Credit: Fulemule
In Hungarian, “fülemüle” translates into “nightingale.” What else could someone named Singer charmingly name his restaurant? Andras Singer, from all impressions, was larger than life. Our friend on Kauai had recalled being taken under his wing and treated as part of the family, with invitations to parties in their home. Prepared from recipes handed down through generations, the traditional Hungarian Jewish food Singer’s family loved was to be the focus of his own restaurant after a lifetime spent in the hospitality industry. Fülemüle’s atmosphere is enhanced by many family photographs with Mr. Singer at their center, numerous civic awards and memorabilia.
Lonely Planet is quoted in Local Eats as saying, “This quaint Hungarian restaurant that looks like time stood still just before WWII is quite a find in deepest Józsefváros and well worth the search.” Jozsefvaros is a neighborhood that has been home to university students since the 1700’s. The 19th century Dohaney Synagogue, the largest in Europe, and the Heroes’ Synagogue (1930) are a few streets over. The National Rabbinical Seminary is down the block. (See map of Jewish Budapest).
Was Mr. Singer available, we asked? Sadly, we were informed that he had passed away the previous year. The restaurant was empty of patrons, save for us. “Over here is his wife, Mari. Her English is not so good,” we were told. Her sad smile needed no translation. “Please, may I help you select your wine, and let me tell you about our food,” said our waiter. We took his recommendation, which was delicious, and I started with the pumpkin soup. Both took winter’s edge away.
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- February’s wine selection
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- Warming up with soup and wine
Traditional Hungarian Jewish food is richly flavored. The menu will invariably include cholent, a dish that dates back to the 12th century, which is slow-simmered to conform with the Sabbath admonition against cooking. The result is a flavorful stew served in a skillet. The cholent beans, which are cooked for at least six hours with chopped onions, herbs and spices, are paired with meat, usually goose. That’s what I’m having, I thought. Pete opted for traditional goulash and noodles.
Cholent with goose leg
Hungarian goulash – yum!
Jewish people have lived in what is now Hungary since Roman times, interchangeably admitted, persecuted, and readmitted alongside Slavs, Magyars, Crusaders, and Saracens. We realized that in this part of the world, history has followed a predictable pattern: invaded, conquered, ruled, persecuted, re-established. Indeed, recent elections have again raised the ugly spectre of anti-semitism, with attacks on Jews and corresponding counter-protests in Budapest. Perhaps there was a reason for Fulemule’s low profile from the street.
All too soon, we were satiated. Bellies full, yet taste buds still demanding, we were talked into (it wasn’t difficult) dessert. Here, the traditional selections met with unappreciative palates. After Vienna’s Sacher tortes and sugary confections, the desserts, although attractively presented, just didn’t seem sweet enough.
Apple Walnut and Poppyseed noodles
Fried matzoh with chocolate
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Fülemüle looks and sounds wonderful. I would love to dine here. Too bad it was empty!
I hope it was empty just because this was January. Looking at the website, there have been quite a few special events, so I think I could be correct. 🙂
Great post! I hope to be in Budapest next spring so will definitely check out Fülemüle restaurant. I’d love to hear about your experience on the night train to Bucharest
Aloha Michele, what a beautiful time of year to choose for a visit. We blogged about our overnight train experience (links above), but if there is anything additional I can help you with, let me know.
You had an amazing KGB-esque type of an experience with your taxi driver that sounded like fun after knowing that you survived. I would have loved trying the goose as well as it has it’s own distinct flavor. I’ve heard so much about Budapest being a great place to visit, but not knowing the language would be daunting.
Ha, Neva, it truly was all you say, from crazy cabbie to intimidating language barrier. But, by the end of our stay, I was in love. Not head over heels giddy or intoxicated with a hangover, like Paris will do, but happily committed to discovery and appreciation. Budapest is my favorite European city.
Oh wow! What a great find! Once you arrived you could relax and enjoy the food and the atmosphere. I know what you mean by luxurious Vienna and Budapest being a “shabby lady past her prime”. Budapest is one of those cities where you need to ease into.
Well I wish I had known about this gem in Pest, sounds like a winner. But really every meal I had there was spectacular. Wonderful post, I was salivating at every description Betsy
Aloha, Noel. Yes, the entire synchronicity with Fülemüle was something you just stepped back and let happen, beginning with the mention on a little speck in the middle of the ocean halfway around the world. Thanks.
Aloha, Cacinda, and yes, you’re right. I began to like Budapest beginning with this meal, and I loved Budapest by the end of our stay; its character is magnetic. I was very sorry to leave, having only had the chance to peel several layers.
“Fried matzoh with chocolate” This looks delicious! Fried and chocolate, I mean what’s not to love?!
It looks as if you found a charming little gem and a fabulous meal! Sometimes the best places are the least known.
Aloha, Patti, I know, right? Darkest chocolate, good for the health, too! Now that the diabetic coma from Vienna has worn off, I’d like to re-try these desserts, balanced on the fence between bitter and sweet. I neglected to mention the after dinner coffee was superb. Can’t stop thinking about this restaurant! lol
Looks great! Never heard of fried matzoh before, guess we’ll be on the lookout now.
Aloha, Veronica – I’d like to try it again. Research purposes for “can the palate be temporarily damaged by too much dessert?”
It sounds like an amazing experience and the food looks fabulous! I am sure this is a memory not soon forgotten!
Aloha, Chris – yes, still thinking about it from time to time. I wanted to get this post written before I forgot the details. The general feeling will be a long term memory. 🙂
Amazing how you were led to this place. I sure hope it survives. Ominous that it was near empty.
Anti-semitism is so rampant in many parts of Europe. Our tour guide in Budapest said there was a resurgence in Budapest now, too.
Would have loved to visit this place!
Aloha, Irene. I honestly think it was more of a cyclical lull in our timing (between winter and spring holidays) more than anything. The counter protests are encouraging, too. Let’s hope the economic situation that spawns these type of things improves. No one wanted to exchange our Hungarian money once we’d left the country.
What a pretty place, and the food looks amazing! Bookmarking this for when we finally get to Budapest.
Aloha, Lois! You will not be disappointed!
We will be in Budapest in September, so I’ll definitely bookmark this page and read your other Budapest entries. My husband’s parents were Shepardic Jews from Bulgaria. It’s scary to learn that antisemitism is rearing its ugly head again. The veneer of civilization is thin indeed. 🙁
Hi Suzanne – September should be a beautiful time of year. One of the things I wanted to do and didn’t have time, was sleuth out the locations from which Raoul Wallenberg operated during the War. I know he lived/hid out on the Buda side, but went back and forth across the river with documents, etc. helping escapees. I hope you get a chance for a meal at Fülemüle (and breakfast at New York Cafe).
Wow! High praise to say this was your best restaurant experience in Europe! Hopefully we’ll get to Budapest one day and can try out Fülemüle…
Aloha, I hope you can, too! Thanks. 🙂
Your pictures and descriptions brought back some great memories of my own delicious meals in Budapest. I especially enjoyed the goulash we had in a coffee house, which was unexpected.
There is so much more to a meal than just the food, isn’t there?!
Atmosphere, history, character and personality of the architecture – the people – as well as the food, which from the photos looked fabulous too 🙂
What an interesting experience. The food at Fülemüle looks great. I thought the desserts looked good too, even if they weren’t sweet enough for you.
Aloha Donna, yes they do look good, don’t they? I wouldn’t mind trying them again. 🙂
What a great find, will have to check it out next time we’re in Budapest. Thanks for sharing!
Aloha, Nat, you will not be sorry! 🙂
I love Hungarian food because it is slow-summered and the flavours are really developed. and that matzoh with chocolate has caught my eye, too! Thx for sharing.
Aloha Doreen, glad you enjoyed it. 🙂