We have had a quiet night at the White Moose Lodge in Healy, 11 miles north of Denali Park, after a rousing happy hour at the Totem Inn. There are photos in the Lodge office of baby moose traipsing along the porch in front of the rooms, nibbling on the hanging flower baskets. Down the row of rooms from us are two van-loads of Russian nationals. We noticed German-speakers in the transport line at the Park yesterday. We all share a similar mission no matter our language. Healy is a Continue Reading
TOWARD THE GREAT ONE
The northbound Parks Highway forks left from "1" into "3" after crossing into the Mat-Su borough, where we spot our first bull moose calmly munching in a wetland within the interchange. Distances and locations are designated by mile markers, e.g. the "secret" blueberry area was to be found in the vicinity of Mile 200. We again are following the Iditarod Trail for a while. The traffic thins out considerably after the Wasilla-Big Lake corridor and we climb almost imperceptibly out of the Mat-Su Continue Reading
CHEECHAKOS IN THE CHUGACH
Flush from the previous day's festival atmosphere in downtown Anchorage, we pick up our car in the morning and decide to venture. The concept of urban wilderness isn't entirely alien to Minnesota-dwelling Outsiders. However, given the non-homo sapiens population statistics kindly provided by the ADN, I find myself wondering if Bear Insurance would be part of the well-prepared cheechako's travel kit. We have none. Following Claudia's example from yesterday, I look to the mountains and orient Continue Reading
ANCHORAGE – OUR GATEWAY
When you realize you're in a place that defies expectation, it's generally not in the airport. Yet, we were hit with the first clue when we spotted the hotel's van, covered by a graphic of a mama and her baby grizzlies. Its driver, whose smiling countenance is broadly chiseled with Native features, provides the first of many welcomes as she loads our gear. "The mountains are to the east, " says Claudia, and so they are. "When I lived Outside, I never knew where I was. Now that I'm back, I Continue Reading
LEAVING FOR ALASKA
We're leaving for Alaska and Daisy doesn't get to go this time. Continue Reading
MUNISING – A FINE FOREVER
If Grand Island is the head, and Munising's deep water harbor is the neck, then Munising itself is a rough-hewn, semi-precious necklace on a leathery cord. From wherever you might be along its grid of tree-named streets, your eye is drawn beyond the pretty face of its anchorage to the Big Water beyond. Nestled against what some say is the most perfect harbor along all of Lake Superior's shoreline, Munising is anything but flashy. Tough and self-sufficient, challenged by weather and an economy Continue Reading
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