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Diocletian’s Palace: Living in History

By Betsy Wuebker 40 Comments

(Last Updated On: April 25, 2018)

If you’re a Game of Thrones fan, you’ll recognize Diocletian’s Palace in Split, Croatia. Stay within the Palace walls to play your part in living history.

Diocletian’s Palace in Split, Croatia has been a UNESCO Heritage Site since 1979. Its walled complex contains the Roman Emperor’s residential villa and temple sites, some of which were later converted to Christian churches. Just as important to UNESCO are the many medieval structures within the compound, boasting beautiful gothic and baroque elements. But the best part about Diocletian’s Palace? It is one of the only heritage sites in the world where people still reside. This is truly living in history: a vibrant, relevant heritage which envelops the Palace’s beautifully preserved buildings and artifacts along with regional cultural traditions into a lively, modern-day community.

Diocletian's Palace

Modern day Split with the walled square of Diocletian’s palace at the waterfront. Photo Credit: Wikipedia

Diocletian, whose reign lasted from 284-305, was a native Dalmatian who came from humble beginnings. Rising through the Roman military, he commanded the cavalry of Emperor Carus during what is known as the Crisis of the Third Century. With the Roman Empire under threat of collapse from a variety of inside and outside pressures, Diocletian succeeded the throne after the deaths of Carus and his heir, and cemented his power by defeating another claimant son in battle. These events ended the crisis. Diocletian further stabilized the Empire by appointing a co-emperor (Maximian), and then two Caesars (Galerius and Constantius). This tetrarchy – “rule of four” – is reflected by their effigies at the Palace’s Golden Gate entrance.

Unlike at other significant and similarly intact archeological sites, people live, work and play within the walls of Diocletian’s Palace. Arriving in the late afternoon, we were captivated by its historic atmosphere and lively energy during an initial evening tour with our personable host. Click here if you are unable to see video below:

Built between 295-305, the seaside Palace contained residential apartments, lower level storehouses only recently discovered, public spaces where Roman subjects could gather, temples dedicated to Jupiter and Asclepius (the god of medicine – was this because Diocletian was already ill while the Palace was being built?), and a military garrison.

Diocletian's Palace peristyle

The Peristyle – main courtyard – of Diocletian’s Palace

Roman Emperors believed they were descended from the gods, and Diocletian was no exception. While he set about restoring order and neutralizing the Empire’s Persian and Egyptian enemies, he also began to reinforce and reform. Creating bureaucratic and military strength from a more equitable tax system, Diocletian went on to severely persecute Christians. His reasoning was that their faith threatened the traditional Roman religious hierarchy, of which he was arguably the most important part as the direct descendant of Jupiter.

The Temple to Jupiter and the Vestibule which transitioned visitors from public to private spaces at the Palace represented the close relationship Diocletian and his subjects understood himself to have with the supreme deity. The Vestibule’s oculus was a window from earth to sky through which his heavenly father could look down upon him, and he could offer sacrifices in return within the temple’s confines or even in the public Peristyle.

Diocletian's Palace
Vestibule at Diocletian’s Palace transitioned visitors from public to private spaces
Diocletian's Palace
The Oculus of the Palace Vestibule was intended as a window between heaven and earth

Diocletian's Palace
Ancient Egyptian Sphynx at Diocletian’s Palace
IMG 1775
The Cathedral of St. Domnius was built over Diocletian’s mausoleum, adjacent to the Palace Peristyle

As his walled complex took shape from marble and local limestone, the Emperor’s health declined. Traditional lore holds forth that this project was intended from inception as a place to retire by the sea. In the spring of 305, after spending a couple of years at the Palace in failing health, Diocletian abdicated his title altogether, the only Roman Emperor to ever do so. For several years thereafter, he delighted in his garden, fending off entreaties to return to office by stating, “If you could show the cabbage that I planted with my own hands to your emperor, he definitely wouldn’t dare suggest that I replace the peace and happiness of this place with the storms of a never-satisfied greed.” Distressed and increasingly ill, he died in 311.

Diocletian's Palace

A residential part of Diocletian’s Palace in bloom

Most experts believe that the southern facade of the Palace rose directly from the Adriatic, as pictured in the rendition below. But lately, Radoslav Bucancic, the Chief Conservator at the Ministry of Culture Conservation Office in Split, has determined this may not be the case. Excavations in 2006-7 revealed a wall at the end of a concrete layer approximately 12 meters deep by 180 meters long. Because sea level in Diocletian’s time was lower, this structure would have been above the water line. The excavated seafront has subsequently been paved over. The Ministry of Culture’s beautiful magazine-style report takes a deep dive into all the archeological evidence at Diocletian’s Palace. It includes a photo of the excavation at the Riva waterfront where this discovery was made. Today, the Riva is rather a grand promenade for pedestrians and disembarking cruise ship passengers.

Diocletian's Palace living history

Until now, popular theory has held that Diocletian’s Palace rose straight from the sea. The Golden Gate is at the upper left with the residence along the water. Photo Credit: Wikipedia

Left abandoned and uninhabited for several hundred years after the fall of the Empire, the compound was used as a refuge by Dalmatians fleeing 7th-century Croat invaders. They inhabited and repurposed the existing Roman buildings, beginning with the Emperor’s Mausoleum. This was consecrated as the Cathedral of St. Domnius. Named for the Bishop who was decapitated by Diocletian in the city’s amphitheater, it claims status as the oldest cathedral in Europe because of its provenance. Christians went on to rededicate and deface more of Diocletian’s constructs: the Cathedral’s crypt is now a shrine to St. Lucy, martyred by Diocletian; only one of his collection of Egyptian sphynx remains un-beheaded.

Plaza clock tower outside the Silver Gate with St. Dominius bell tower beyond

Plaza clock tower outside the Silver Gate with St. Dominius bell tower beyond

During Medieval times, baroque and gothic buildings went up inside the Palace walls, incorporating the Roman architecture.

Diocletian's Palace

Newer buildings among the ruins in Diocletian’s Palace

Multi-level dwellings and commercial spaces clustered around garden courtyards.

Buildings from different eras in Diocletian's Palace

Buildings from different eras in Diocletian’s Palace

Rediscovered in 1764 by a Scottish architect, Diocletian’s Palace inspired Europe’s Neo-Classical design movement.

Diocletian's Palace
A variety of architectural elements span the centuries
Diocletian's Palace gateway
Gates and corridors reveal different portions of the Palace compound

Diocletian's Palace Peristyle Columns

Classical columns define the open air Peristyle (central courtyard), which is still a vibrant gathering space today

Peristyle Vestibule Facade Diocletian's Palace

Entrance facade of the Vestibule from the Peristyle central courtyard

Diocletian isn’t the only famous historical figure associated with the Palace. Our hotel room windows, close by the Golden Gate, looked out over an enormous statue of Gregory of Nin, which was moved from the Palace Peristyle  to its present location after World War II. In the 10th century, Bishop Gregory introduced Croatian language religious services in defiance of the Pope’s Latin edicts. Today, you can rub the toe of the statue for good luck.

Diocletian's Palace St. Gregory of Nin

Statue of St. Gregory of Nin outside the Golden Gate. Our second story hotel room windows are the two just to the left of the statue.

When you stay within the walls of Diocletian’s Palace, you are immersed in an atmosphere which is a lively combination of history and modern life. Currently, the Palace is home to approximately 3000 permanent residents. Our hotel host, Jerko (pronounced Yair-ko), told us this wasn’t always the most desirable part of town. The Yugoslavian government gifted his father with a courtyard flat upon retirement which was a quite common thing to do in the formerly socialist state. The family has recently renovated it into our tiny hotel. Jerko joked that if the government had known how valuable this real estate would become, they never would have just given it away.

Residential housing in Diocletian's Palace

Residential housing in Diocletian’s Palace

Since the collapse of the former Yugoslavia, the Palace has undergone gentrification and development. There are any number of places to stay within the Palace walls with prices ranging from budget to luxury. Likewise, dining and shopping options run the gamut.

Restaurant in Diocletian's Palace

Restaurant off the Peristyle in Diocletian’s Palace

The vibe is paradoxical: it’s at once busy, yet relaxed. Innovation and renovation respect the historical elements for the most part, such as this architect’s striking concept for new housing on the southeast side of the Palace. Residents don’t hesitate to dispute and win against schemes which fail to respect historical heritage or reduce the small amount of green space that still remains within the Palace walls.

Architect's housing proposal Diocletian's Palace

Residential concept for Diocletian’s Palace. Photo Credit: Architect Matilda Lindborg, Cargo Collective

The Palace environs have a remarkable and practical physical relationship with the city of Split. Visitors, residents, and commercial deliveries enter and exit through the main gates – Gold, Silver, Iron – or from the Porta Aenea, a simpler gate from the sea side which may have been the Emperor’s private access or used as a service entrance.

Plaza outside Diocletian's Palace, Split

Plaza outside the Silver Gate

Even as you live in history at Diocletian’s Palace, you need not feel confined by it. Instead, history defines and enriches your experience with an injection of the cheeky Croatian personality. See what we mean in the “Emperor’s Procession” video below, so kitschy:

Tips and Practicalities:

We stayed at the Guesthouse Palace Inn, where you may choose from one of two ensuite rooms, each with sitting area, air conditioning, refrigerator, cable TV, coffee and tea making facilities. Our wonderful hosts, Jerko and his family, have renovated their father’s retirement flat with a clean minimalist look while simultaneously incorporating classical details from the Roman exterior wall. As of this writing, prices begin at an astoundingly low $33/night. We paid more during the high season.

Guesthouse Palace Inn, Split

Photo Credit: Guesthouse Palace Inn

We arrived having driven from Rijeka. The hotel is located off a courtyard in the vicinity of the Golden Gate. New visitors without a detailed map may be disoriented on their first foray inside – Google Maps are not reliable here. If that’s all you have, you might best wait outside the Palace wall after telephoning for someone to meet you. Parking in the center city, particularly on busy holiday weekends, may seem a nightmare. Jerko will help you find a space in the neighboring streets. Inside the Palace walls, it’s pedestrians only. We chose to drop off our Sixt car rental in Split after the first night.

Guesthouse Palace Inn, Spit

Roman exterior wall in our bath

Many visitors arrive in Split via cruise ship or ferry, as it has long been a popular stop and gateway to the Dalmatian coastal islands. Ferries are frequent from Hvar, Korcula and other islands. You may come by sea from the coastal cities of Rijeka, Zadar and Dubrovnik as well. Check schedules and ticket information here.

Pinnable Image:

Palace of Diocletian Split Croatia

 

 

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Filed Under: Travel, Croatia, Europe Tagged With: Croatia

Comments

  1. Lyn aka The Travelling Lindfields says

    March 28, 2016 at 2:53 am

    Reading this I am beginning to see why Croatia is becoming such a popular destination. I didn’t realise that there were Roman ruins there. Maybe we will have to plan a trip before it gets too popular.

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      March 28, 2016 at 9:31 pm

      Hi Lyn – Yes, the Roman Empire stretched entirely around and down the Adriatic as well as further East where Diocletian made his military mark.

      Reply
  2. Anita @ No Particular Place To Go says

    March 28, 2016 at 4:01 am

    There are so many reasons to visit Croatia and you’ve just shown me another one! It’s interesting that you mentioned “Game of Thrones” as we watched the first couple of seasons when we lived in Nicaragua and just downloaded Seasons 1-5 (I-Tunes) to rewatch and catch up on. The reason for our reawakened interest (a great story notwithstanding the gratuitous sex and explicit violence) was that we recently visited another shooting location, the Real Alcazar in Sevilla. I’ll keep my eyes open for Diocletian’s Palace once we take up the fantasy series once again!

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      March 28, 2016 at 9:31 pm

      Hi Anita – The last time we were here in Fiji, I binge-watched GoT, and boy, was I hooked!

      Reply
  3. Karen Warren says

    March 28, 2016 at 4:37 am

    What an amazing place. I’m always fascinated by Roman history and remains, so I’ve just added Diocletian’s Palace to my bucket list!

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      March 28, 2016 at 9:32 pm

      Hi Karen – It really is amazing. We had so much fun remembering our visit putting this post and the videos together.

      Reply
  4. Rachel Heller says

    March 28, 2016 at 4:58 am

    From your pictures, Diocletian’s Palace reminds me of Jerusalem in terms of how you can see centuries of architectural history all piled up on top of each other. It seems like they ought to clash, but somehow the later buildings manage to respect the earlier. Thank you for this introduction; I especially enjoyed the kitch Ben-Hur ceremony!

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      March 28, 2016 at 9:33 pm

      Hi Rachel – Yes, the layers of history are easy to discern and just fascinating.

      Reply
  5. Donna Janke says

    March 28, 2016 at 9:29 am

    The more I read about Croatia, the more I’d like to visit. Diocletian’s Palace in Split looks and sounds fascinating with centuries of history around you.

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      March 28, 2016 at 9:34 pm

      Hi Donna – You’d love Croatia. It’s so gorgeous, the people are wonderful, and it’s such a great travel value.

      Reply
  6. Michele Peterson ( A Taste for Travel) says

    March 28, 2016 at 11:35 am

    That quote from Diocletian about choosing a life “growing cabbages” over a life of fame and fortune in Rome is priceless and a great reminder of what’s ( still) important in life.

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      March 28, 2016 at 9:34 pm

      Hi Michele – Isn’t that a wonderful quote? It humanizes him.

      Reply
  7. noel says

    March 28, 2016 at 2:12 pm

    Ah, Split was one of my favorite places to visit in Dalmatia and I spent a lot of time exploring this amazing palace/old city and ruins. Wonderful video, images and story telling.

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      March 28, 2016 at 9:36 pm

      Hi Noel – There’s really nothing we didn’t like about Croatia, except maybe the drive from Rijeka to Split on the busiest holiday of the year. Split is really special, though, and this place is magic.

      Reply
  8. Janice Chung says

    March 28, 2016 at 2:26 pm

    I can’t believe how cheap your accommodations were! The place looked great and the best part is that you were within the town walls. I, too, would drop off my car and not even attempt to drive through the city. I’d never find the hotel. Croatia is certainly on my list and I love the idea of going to a restaurant off the Peristyle in Diocletian’s Palace and being surrounded by ruins while having a meal.

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      March 28, 2016 at 9:37 pm

      Hi Janice – We paid more because it was August, but the prices right now made us wonder if we shouldn’t consider a lengthy stay in the future. The atmosphere is first rate.

      Reply
  9. Irene S. Levine says

    March 28, 2016 at 2:32 pm

    I haven’t watched Game of Thrones but do hope to revisit Croatia. My visit was way too brief!

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      March 28, 2016 at 9:38 pm

      Hi Irene – We feel the same. Next time we’ll stay as long as we possibly can.

      Reply
  10. The GypsyNesters says

    March 28, 2016 at 8:18 pm

    I have heard that Split, and the rest of Croatia was fantastic since back in the 90s when so many of our Italian friends visited there. Now I see why. Much more than just the seaside.

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      March 28, 2016 at 9:39 pm

      Hi GypsyNesters – Yes, Croatia is very popular with Italians. They used to be part of the same empire, and in the north, the Croatian language takes on an Italian lilt. It makes you remember that current day borders are very young indeed.

      Reply
  11. Alana says

    March 29, 2016 at 5:13 am

    Amazing. My cousin toured Roman ruins when she was posted (years ago) in Tunisia. Thank you for the visual tour.

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      March 30, 2016 at 2:05 am

      Hi Alana – Glad you enjoyed it.

      Reply
  12. Terri says

    March 29, 2016 at 7:13 am

    Magnificent. What a magical place, your photos are gorgeous. Thank you for the inclusion of the Dalmation Klapa singing/singers. The natural acoustics of the stone and structure are exquisite. What did you shoot your video and stills with? I don’t even have a passport, so I am very appreciative of your generous sharing of your adventure. I love history and what stories those walls must hold! Wishing you a peace filled day.

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      March 30, 2016 at 2:06 am

      Hi Terri – We did everything in this post with an iPhone 6, and then edited it on a Mac using iMovie. We thought the singing was exquisite, too. Thanks.

      Reply
  13. Denis Gagnon says

    March 30, 2016 at 5:40 am

    What a fascinating article! I love mixing history with travel and there seems to be no better place to do that than in Split Croatia! Thanks for a great posting!

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      April 1, 2016 at 10:21 pm

      Hi Denis – Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks!

      Reply
  14. Sue Reddel says

    March 30, 2016 at 9:30 pm

    What a beautiful destination! I’ve heard so much about Croatia we’ve added it to our must visit list. I really like your videos Betsy they really add another dimension to your story.

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      April 1, 2016 at 10:22 pm

      Hi Sue – Thank you! We’re learning a lot about video. 🙂

      Reply
  15. Cindy McCain says

    March 31, 2016 at 6:10 am

    Loved the videos–beautiful! Thanks!

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      April 1, 2016 at 10:22 pm

      Hi Cindy – Thank you!

      Reply
  16. Dani says

    April 1, 2016 at 5:26 am

    I have travelled to Croatia on three occasions in the last decade as absolutely fell in love with the place. Having seen much of the world and Like many travellers I meet Croatia is now my favorite country . It is so beautiful the whole country could be a national park. Google Image these hidden gems: Rastoke , Varazdin, Sibenik, Island Murter & Kornati archipelago, Rovinj, Losinj & island of Vis and it’s beautiful Stiniva cove. Jaw droppingly beautiful

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      April 1, 2016 at 10:23 pm

      Hi Dani – Croatia is right up there in our esteem, too. We stayed in Rovinj and Korcula as well as Dubrovnik and it all was stunning.

      Reply
  17. Jo ~ Lifestyle Fifty says

    April 3, 2016 at 1:37 am

    Loved your photos Betsy and they brought back fabulous memories of our time in Croatia and Split. We stayed in a tiny guest house on the top floor in the Diocletian’s Palace, quite near to the restaurant you feature in one of your photos. Just loved Split … the ancientness of it all, the wonderful atmosphere, the restaurants, that gorgeous look out hill and the ability to hop on a boat or ferry and go to an island. Awesome Croatia. Great post 🙂

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      April 3, 2016 at 1:56 am

      Hi Jo – You’re so right. Croatia is simply awesome, and Split is a lovely experience. Thanks.

      Reply
  18. Doreen Pendgracs says

    April 3, 2016 at 4:39 pm

    I’m not a Game of Thrones fan, and haven’t yet been to Croatia, but I would certainly like to go. GREAT pics!

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      April 3, 2016 at 5:10 pm

      Hi Doreen – I haven’t found a soul who hasn’t loved Croatia, GoT fan or not. 🙂

      Reply
  19. Bruno says

    April 8, 2016 at 7:59 am

    I just loved this place. Having a beer with live music on a hot summer night surrounded by these ruins was magic!

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      April 8, 2016 at 4:37 pm

      Hi Bruno – We loved it, too. There were many moments in Split which proved life is good.

      Reply

Trackbacks

  1. Romantic Rovinj | Passing Thru says:
    April 3, 2016 at 1:57 pm

    […] medieval town, whose lone church bell tower – that of Saint Euphemia (martyred by Diocletian, whose Palace we visited in Split) in Rovinj – points skyward from the center of a spiral of red-tiled roofs.  Like a […]

    Reply
  2. Top 10 Sofia Attractions for First Timers | Passing Thru says:
    April 28, 2016 at 1:35 pm

    […] the Emperor Diocletian (see our write-up on his retirement palace in Split, Croatia) divided its province into two, Serdica became one of the new capitals. In 311, […]

    Reply

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Aloha! We’re Betsy and Pete Wuebker. We traveled the world full time for close to four years and have visited almost 50 countries. If you’re a curious and thoughtful traveler, you’re in the right place. No matter if you’re new to travel or an old hand, we can help you refine your bucket list!

Here’s to a happier, travel-centered life!

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