View from our Savusavu Rental
Visit Fiji and inevitably you’ll learn about “Fiji Time” – the national belief that life should be lived moment by moment, without stress or hurry.
When you get to Fiji, inevitably you’ll encounter Fiji Time. Usually this is a situation where people aren’t behaving or things aren’t happening in the way you want, as quickly as you expected, or even at all.
Perhaps your meal is slow to come, or the server forgets entirely that you wanted something. Maybe you’ll try to hire someone for work around the house and they never return your phone call, much less show up. Or you’ll email someone as promised, and you won’t hear back from them for several weeks. Or you’ll sit on a full bus with other passengers for half an hour while the driver has a snack on the depot bench. All these things happened to us in Fiji, and we attribute them to Fiji Time.
Sunset dinner table on the Coral Coast
Simply explained, Fiji Time is the belief that there is no need to rush, things will happen when they do – or not, that life should be lived moment by moment. There is no need to stress, there is always tomorrow, life is filled with beauty, love and happiness.
Pete gazing out to sea
Viti Levu lagoon
There are two ways to react to Fiji Time. The effect it has on you will reveal your current frame of mind.
If you’re frustrated by lateness, unreturned phone calls or emails, or that you have to wait for service in a store or a restaurant, you’ve probably not yet let go of your busy life elsewhere. If instead, you feel a sense of relaxation and equanimity in the face of these situations, you’ve likely set yourself on the path to Fiji Time adaptation.
No need to tether the foal
Fiji Time can either feel like those you rely upon are lazy or uncaring, or it can feel refreshing and insulated from the crazy rest of the world out there. One thing is for certain: you’re the one who will have to change by adjusting your expectations, or not. Fiji Time has been a way of life for Fijians forever. A few encounters with you aren’t going to change that, no matter how important you think you are or should be.
Timeless Viti Levu highlands
Some think the reputation Fiji Time has is a serious determent to Fiji’s economic growth and foreign investment, particularly at the micro level. It can be frustrating for those from other cultures to adapt to Fiji traditions while at the same time observing the lower standards of living and wanting to raise overall prosperity to more acceptable, modern (read: Western) levels.
Reef walkers in the distance
In “Fiji Time, it’s no laughing matter” the Australia-based Change Factory consultancy attempts to explain:
“Fiji culture tends to have low time consciousness, low stress and few rules. Decisions are made based on consensus, with emphasis being placed on solidarity and quality of work-life. One’s identity is based on one’s social network and work relationships are seen in moral terms like a family link with harmony being maintained and confrontation avoided. Subordinates expect to be told what to do and bosses are expected to be benevolent autocrats.”
Walking home to Korotogo
The article goes on to suggest, rather condescendingly I thought, that improving outcomes requires working within these cultural norms. Project leaders and supervisors should think of establishing themselves as a “benevolent dictators,” using “consensus and moral attachment” to work, creating a “work family” in which commitments and expectations are managed by using indirect communication and egalitarian methods.
Resorts and other international businesses in Fiji routinely struggle with lack of consistency when working with Fijians. The large Indian minority on the islands has positioned itself to take up the slack, seizing entrepreneurial opportunities and building sustainable business models. The Fijian government has entered the fray with the Eleven Pillars People’s Charter, seeking to reduce corruption and ethnic discrimination against indigenous Fijians.
Walking home at twilight
On a personal level, Fiji Time goes a little deeper than a relaxed (or frustrating, depending upon whom you ask) attitude. In Fijian culture, everybody is important, from the smallest family member to the eldest grandparent, from the man with the big house to the person who lives in what we’d call a shack.
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- My bus seatmate and me
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- At the bus stop
Fijians will greet you with a “Bula” and a smile whether they know you or not. They’ll stop work if you pass by to exchange pleasantries and have a leisurely little chat on Fiji Time. You don’t just say “Hello” in Fiji, or worse yet, nothing at all. You say, “Bula, how are you?” and then you listen to the answer, making eye contact.
Sigatoka fresh market
We talked about this before ( “Fiji and the Pursuit of Happiness”):
“In Fiji, there is always an attempt to establish commonality, no matter how remote. Sometimes this can feel a little awkward, like a bit of a stretch. But, it isn’t mere curiosity, it’s connection. Culturally, this process signifies each of you has value. That’s a big deal. When the pursuit of happiness is studied, inevitably the concept of self-worth comes into play.”
Needless to say, this infectious practice quickly has you feeling like you’re the most important person in the world, and you begin to treat others in this way as well. As such, you begin to think about where someone might be from, what their family is like, where their village is, who are they related to that you know. Other things are relegated to the recesses of your mind, and if a deadline has passed with little incident, life goes on.
On the hunt for sea urchins
Vanua Levu village child
Savusavu kindergartener
Many of the sights we’ve seen and experiences we’ve had have been happening in Fiji for hundreds, if not thousands of years. If you spend the evening with your family on the reef collecting sea urchins, washing them with sea water and eating them raw from the bucket just as your ancestors have done before you and your children will do after you, it may not seem important in the bigger scheme of things that an email gets sent. The lawn can be cut or the car repaired tomorrow.
Walking the reef for sea urchins
Sereanna cleaning sea urchins
For those who are weary of busy-ness, whose personal energy is depleted by the lifestyle treadmill, or who may be seeking a simplified life with a different focus, Fiji Time will have a seductive pull.
“What happened to a world in which we can sit with the people we love so much and have slow conversations about the state of our heart and soul, conversations that slowly unfold, conversations with pregnant pauses and silences that we are in no rush to fill?” – from The Disease of Being Busy
Coral Coast lagoon
Sunset at Wailoaloa
The reef catches fire at sunset on the Coral Coast
Fiji Time isn’t really time at all. Fiji itself is timeless, and that is the difference.
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That last photo of the sunset on the Coral Coast is simply awe inspiring. I would definitely stop whatever “important” think I was doing to enjoy it. When we were in South Africa recently, many annoyances (to us) were dismissed with a shrug of the shoulders and someone saying , “You know, South African time.” I think it might take me some time to adjust to Fiji time. 😉
Bula Suzanne – We had an easier transition after living on Kaua’i. It’s “Island Time,” there. I’m not minding Fiji Time at all, except for once. When our housesit was ending and the homeowners were expected in a few days, Pete couldn’t get the lawn mower started. There was no way we were leaving the lawns the way they were, and I started to get upset. We called around trying to hire someone and no one responded. Finally, Pete asked our friend Pravina (the one who taught him how to make curry, etc.) what to do and boom! her husband came that same day after he finished work. Fiji Time really doesn’t affect our online work, where we self-impose deadlines, etc. We’re less stressed, definitely.
This sounds just like a place I might have to move to. Good attitude, things will take care of themselves. Love it.
Bula Tom – We could definitely live here in Fiji, and it’s tempting to consider it as a snowbird lifestyle with Minnesota and Kaua’i in the mix.
Your post was lovely and the photos of Fiji were breathtaking; as I was reading I could feel my mind slow down as I pictured “Fiji Time”. Since we have retired and begun traveling long term we’ve struggled to live this way but it’s very difficult after living in the US all our lives! (I think we need a few more years of travel!) I may have to make a mantra out of your words, ” No need to rush, things will happen when they do – or not, that life should be lived moment by moment…”
Bula Anita – Thank you. Fiji Time reminds me of the zen mix of detachment and presence. I used to say time felt elastic on Kaua’i in an attempt to describe the transformation. It certainly does here in Fiji, too. We’ve definitely slowed down because of travel.
Beautiful post. I am a list maker and busy most of the time. It may take me some time to adapt to Fiji time, but it sounds as if it would be worth it. Our western sense of priorities and definition of success is often a little off. Great photos.
Bula Donna – I remember the days when my Filofax (long, long ago!) was filled with entries to the point of illegibility. Thankfully, no longer! You’re right about our Western sense of priorities and success.
When I started to read your article I thought to myself “That sounds typical for all tropics”, but reading on showed that obviously it’s going further and deeper than I’m used to from other places (Philippines came straight to mind, where every day at least once we heard “Oh, so sorry, I forgot…”), being part of the culture on Fiji more than just a mentality.
And I know the conflict of living in such environment as somebody with “western values” and upbringing. Already, where we live in Australia, it can be similar with trades people: if the surf is good they show for work at 11 or 12, if the surf is bad they ring you out of bed before 7 – LOL.
Bula Juergen – Yes, there are definitely similarities! I’m starting to wonder though, if South Africans, surfers, Polynesians, Filipinos and others might really have the right idea.
I love the photo of the little boy sitting in the water looking for sea urchins and I agree with Suzanne, that last photo – of the sunset – is just amazing!
Bula Patti – Thank you, that is one of my favorite shots, too. The boy’s name is Uate (pronounced Wah-tay), and he is the son of Sereanna, such a little charmer. The reef sunset was just amazing on what was one of our last nights on the Coral Coast. I have about 30 photos of that sunset; it changed every few seconds. Just when you think you’ve seen the most beautiful Fijian sunset ever yesterday, today’s comes along.
Oddly we didn’t experience much Fiji time when we were there. Mainly we were on a Captain Cook cruise and they operate everything very much on time. But at a resort we went to I don’t think it was Fiji time so much as lousy service that annoyed us. When you pay to stay at a 5 star resort and the staff just talks to each other and doesn’t wait on you at all that doesn’t seem like a charming approach to life! I can see how it has hurt Fijians economically. The people are lovely though when you’re chatting with them – it’s just hard for an east coast Type A person so adjust to a “whenever” attitude! It obviously didn’t bother us too much though as we’re going back again in April!
Bula Kay – I would characterize it as a difference in expectations on the part of the server in Fiji. In the U.S., I think we tend to characterize “good” service as intuitive and ahead of our needs. Pete and I don’t want to have to ask for initial attention after we’re seated, more water or a soup spoon, we want it to just happen. Yesterday, we were in two restaurants – one Chinese-owned in Labasa, and one in a high-end resort owned by an American couple. In the Chinese restaurant, we were done with our meal for quite some time, yet needed to ask for our bill, whereupon the darling little waitress stopped chatting with her peers and filled it out (she’d not written anything down prior to that). However, she did bring a pitcher of ice water and two glasses without us asking. It was very warm and their A/C wasn’t the best. At the American-owned resort, we still had to ask for drinks after the first one (instead of being asked if we’d like another, and yes, we’re those people who have more than one cocktail), and for the check as well, even though the presentation and setups for our delicious meal were really exceptional. The Australian article I cited talks about subordinates expecting to be directed. I think this is the basic difference.
That’s a very different way of approaching life. I think I would find it frustrating but I can see that it would be liberating if you allowed yourself to embrace it.
Bula Karen – Your intuition is correct. Embracing Fiji Time does wonders for your blood pressure. 🙂
Betsy, This is a fantastic post and you have done a great job of capturing what is meaningful to Fijians. On one of my trips to Africa, I knew within hours of arrival in Tanzania that I would have to re-frame my expectations and get onto African time. It can be liberating – if you don’t have a deadline to meet. And it takes some getting used to, as we are all so intensely aware of the clock.
Bula Leigh – You’re right about being governed by the clock. The nice thing we found is that we could reassign priorities; we were needlessly stressing about a lot of things that didn’t require the emphasis we self-imposed. It’s very liberating indeed.
Another terrific post Betsy. I adored your photos and would love to be able to say I would get used to the slow pace but I think it would be difficult.
Bula Sue – The pace definitely takes getting used to. But it’s also one of the reasons Fiji is a popular vacation destination. I think deep down people crave it, particularly when they can’t control their daily circumstances. Commuting, over-scheduling, competing deadlines, etc.
I love Fiji and its people and the easy-going lifestyle. Your sunset images are spectacular!
Bula Carole – Thanks, we do, too! 🙂
I could definitely do with embracing Fiji time right now. Oh it all looks so gorgeous and it would be lovely to kick back and relax, particularly in view of those sunsets on the Coral Coast 😉
Bula Jo – Fiji makes it very easy to relax, to be sure. 🙂
Great post, we know a few places that seem to run on Fiji Time 😉
Bula Nat – Thanks, yes, it seems to defuse annoyance when you call it Fiji Time, too. 🙂
Great post! Of course, there are also regional differences in time perception in the U.S. as well but I imagine this is even more laid back than that!
Bula Irene – Yes, Fiji is definitely more laid back than any other place we’ve lived or visited.
Oh boy does my husband need to read this. I am afraid that it would take him a great long time to fit in with those living on Fiji time. I love the idea. I love that they make you feel so important, look you in the eye instead of their phone. I wish the rest of the world lived a little bit slower. You photos are breathtaking. I love them all. Thank you!
Bula Suzanne – It’s funny that many of those who are super high energy in their “other life” are the biggest adopters of Fiji Time once they’ve been here a while. I do prefer slower living now. Time to appreciate is time well spent. Thanks.
Bula, Betsy! Having spent the past 15 years traveling in SEA I have kind of gotten used to
________ time (fill in the blank with almost any SEA city or country), so I might adjust to Fiji time quite quickly. Although, I know it would still take me a while. I do love the concept 🙂
Bula Nancie – I think you might be surprised by how quickly you adapt. 🙂
Fiji time reminds of of Mexico’s “manana time,” which I eventually got used to while living there for nearly 20 years. I’ve never been to Fiji, however and you’ve inspired me to go!
Thank you!
Bula Michelle – I’m so glad we could inspire you! 🙂
Fiji sounds like the place for me because I am probably one of the laziest people on earth ;). Photos are amazing! I have an opportunity to visit in April and I think you may have me convinced to go. Thank you for sharing!
Bula Michelle – You won’t regret visiting whatsoever, I’m sure. 🙂
Having grown up in the US and lived in Germany I have a hard time adjusting to a more relaxed take on time! When I’m traveling or on vacation I really enjoy it and just adopt an attitude of “whatever happens, happens” but I struggle if I’m there for work. I find cultural differences around time so fascinating, so I really enjoyed reading this. And now I really want to go to Fiji.
Thanks for participating in the #MyGlobalLife Link-Up!
Hi Cate – I think the reason many people enjoy travel so much is it gives them a chance to step into the relaxed state of mind you mention. In Fiji, that’s the norm. 🙂
Thanks so much Betsy for this timely post. It’s now December 30, and I’ve read your beautiful prose and seen the stunning images. This is the perfect time of year to reflect on the speed of our lives, and what could be improved by slowing down a little (or a lot). You communicate the possibilities beautifully. Here’s to less rushing in 2015!
Hi Wanda – thank you so much. You’re right, we could all do with a little more of the best aspects of “Fiji time.”
I have never heard of Fiji Time before this, but it really sounds great. I usually like to rush and squeeze in as much as possible, but it’s also nice to relax and just go with the flow sometimes.
Bula Cory – You’re so right. Traveling is temporary and we can put the pressure on ourselves with limited time in a place. It’s ironic, because part of the reason for travel is to smell different roses, right?