Florida’s Forgotten Coast: Unforgettable Places to See and Stay

(Last Updated On: June 23, 2023)

We’ve traveled to Florida’s forgotten coast twice over the years, and each time we wondered why we don’t visit more often. Amazing places to see and stay combine for an unforgettable experience.

What is considered the Forgotten Coast in Florida?

Florida’s forgotten coast, or Old Florida, or however you want to designate the part of western Florida that is down-home and definitely small town, is located on the inside elbow bend that the panhandle of Florida makes of the state map. Check out this map of Florida’s forgotten coast.

Heading south from Panama City Beach along US highway 98 toward Apalachicola, you’ll pass through the Gulf County communities of Mexico Beach and Port St Joe, then round the bend of Cape San Blas, which juts into the Gulf of Mexico like the point of an elbow.

Indian Pass (less than 10 miles south of Port St. Joe) provides natural access to Apalachicola Bay from the Gulf, creating perfect spot after spot for a fishing trip.

Continuing along, the highway runs through downtown Apalachicola and continues on through the Franklin County communities of Eastpoint, Carrabelle, Lanark Village, St Teresa and then veers past Alligator Point.

While there are barrier islands all along the Gulf coast, most have been invaded over the years by species such as developeris timesharum or condominium multistorius or retirus ad nauseam. Franklin County, although home to humans for over 10,000 years, has been overlooked by more flashy developers.

If you’re expecting high-rise hotels or tourist traps on Florida’s forgotten coast, you’ll be disappointed. Instead, nature lovers will appreciate the natural beauty of Apalachicola National Forest, St. Joseph Peninsula State Park, and Tate’s Hell State Forest as well as the pristine beaches with sugar white sand.

This region is comprised of the most charming and undiscovered treasures Florida has to offer. Friendly people, gorgeous beaches, a beautiful barrier island system ensuring gentle surf, oystermen and crabcakes, and a picturesque little county seat across the causeway made St George Island a welcome respite from winter winds and Carrabelle a welcome getaway after a year of pandemic isolation.

When is the best time to visit Florida’s forgotten coast?

Conveniently for snowbirds, along Florida’s forgotten coast the best time of year to visit is winter, which is the off-season. On our first visit we pretty much had the gated neighborhood of St. George Plantation to ourselves. Similar to the one in the photo, our rented house, across the street from Hank Williams, Jr.’s place, had its own pool and a gourmet kitchen. It was heavenly leaving the sliding door open and falling asleep to the rhythmic crashing of the surf.

The east end of the island is home to St. George Island State Park containing nine miles of protected marshes, dunes, scrub forest and salt marshes. Opportunities abound for birders. Migratory and shore birds, as well as raptors, make their homes adjacent to those of humans all over the island.

This trip, Pete’s sisters were busy adjusting their award-winning chili recipe for another go at the annual crock pot Chili Cook-off on the day the entries were due, defending their previously-won title. While they didn’t place this time in their category, the free tasting dispensed with their supply and they went home happy. Other vibrant community events can feature live music, fresh seafood, or fine arts and crafts.

During a more recent trip to Florida’s forgotten coast, our vacation rental was located about ten minutes south of Carrabelle Beach. Rarely will you find an affordable, yet casually luxurious vacation home right on the water, but this great place is a standout when compared with other rental properties we’ve encountered.

Bella Carrabelle, in the tradition of the best coast beach homes, offers beautiful sunsets, a wide open water view, two king-sized bedrooms, each with their own bath, beautifully renovated kitchen with high end appliances, and a serene, relaxing vibe.

This awesome property rents directly with the owners, Jim and KJ, via word of mouth and their Facebook page. Bella Carrabelle is the perfect base for a family vacation, romantic getaway, or group trip for fishing, shopping or just relaxing.

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Things to do in the Carrabelle area are legion, but if you’re a history buff don’t overlook the Crooked River Lighthouse and local museums.

Other historic lighthouses along Florida’s forgotten coast to check off your list would be the St. Marks, seven miles into the St. Marks Wildlife Refuge and the second oldest lighthouse in Florida, and the Cape St. George Lighthouse, which has a poignant, more recent restoration story.

The name ‘Apalachicola’ comes from the Indians and apparently described a ridge of earth produced by sweeping the ground in preparation for a council or peace fire. Such an area might be translated as an area of peaceful people or people on the other side. ‘Land of the friendly people’ might be taken as a broad interpretation of the word. – George L. Chapel, Apalachicola Historical Society

Heading into Apalachicola across the causeway from St. George Island, the GPS on our car appeared as though we were in the water – the bridge had been replaced some time ago. No matter. We could see the oyster boats on the prowl and the sea birds following in their wake. I was at peace and winter’s icy blast was far, far away.

The village of Apalachicola was designated a Distinctive Destination by the National Trust for Historic Preservation in 2008. It’s the kind of pretty little town that makes you want to be a local with a shady front porch and a tray of cold drinks. You can imagine Andy and Barney slowing past with a wave from their cruiser, especially since the next town over, Carrabelle, used to have its Police Department in a phone booth. Apalachicola is sleepy, on purpose.

The town museum features the most famous Apalachicolan, Dr. Gorrie, who invented mechanical refrigeration, but died before he could profit from it. Another landmark residence, the Orman House, is operated by the Florida State Parks for tours. All in all, over 900 historical sites are listed in Apalachicola proper, affirming its rich history.

These attractions leave plenty of room in your budget for cold refreshment along with your crabcake sandwich in any number of local restaurants.

Finer fare can be found at The Owl Cafe – an atmospheric experience with a welcoming wine room. The crabcakes were excellent here, and the white wine recommendation was outstanding – and reasonably priced – on both our visits.

Ambling down a side street in Apalachicola, I spotted an old yellow dog napping in the doorway of a storefront. Spare on the inside, the shop’s ancient brick walls showcased large black and white photographs. Stepping carefully past the drowsy canine so as not to disturb, I was quietly greeted by Richard Bickel, the artist proprietor. “He doesn’t do much any more but sleep all day,” I was told. It seemed like an okay thing to be doing to me.

From the photographs on exhibit, it was clear Richard is a sophisticated citizen of the world. Whatever was an internationally renowned award winner doing in Apalachicola, when there were photos to shoot in Niger or Marrakech or Castro’s Cuba? Well, he told me, he came here on assignment, and forgot to leave.

Well, this is really the end of Florida in terms of cultural identity.  Here people are relatively pure in terms of their culture.  They’re very resourceful people.  They can build a boat.  They can build a home.  You can throw them out here in the swamps and they can find a way back or else build a boat and get back.  So I think it’s quite important to record this as we continue to dilute cultures – not just here, but virtually everywhere in the world. 

Already a book that I did – started on ten years ago, I go back and look at the photographs – some of the people are gone, some of the dock areas have changed dramatically.  As we do continue to change the face of this coastal area, we see it vanishing to a certain degree.  These few snapshots I have and those of other people will be all that tell us, in addition to some film footage, and future generations what we did have here.

Richard Bickel

Tapped by Elam Stoltzfus to collaborate on a documentary, Apalachicola River: An American Treasure, Richard captured the faces of this river town and its backwaters through the same artistic lens he uses on other continents. The result is familiar and riveting, a time capsule, preserving with stark authenticity the fading ways of life on the waterway.

Apalachicola Bay is one of the most productive, nutrient-rich and unspoiled estuarine systems, according to the city website, in the world. Franklin County harvests yield fine oysters and seafood: white, brown and pink shrimp, blue crab, and commercial fish including pompano and flounder.

The Apalachicola National Estuarine Research Reserve has just under 250,000 acres of public land and water in the Florida Panhandle with great natural diversity. Its programming includes research and training in environmental stewardship, resource management, and education.

There are many spectacular places to film in Florida, but the Apalachicola River and its tributaries are elusive and not well understood. There is a quiet serenity on the river, but an untamed and mysterious side in the back-waters of the river. The abundance of textures and shapes, spectrums of light, change of seasons, levels of water, combined with the collection of species that are unique to this area creates a filmmakers delight. Having the opportunity to capture images of nature in the region I call home, and to share those images with others has put a smile on my face and satisfaction in my soul. – Elam Stoltzfus

A winter vacation gives the opportunity to remind oneself that there is sunlight to be soaked in on beautiful beaches. There are waves to gently lap against a dock or chase you back toward the beach house, and icy drinks and ceiling fans to temper the day’s heat. But more than this, the soul needs a rest from battling the chill, be it physical or emotional.

The isolated quiet is different in this almost forgotten part of Florida. It speaks to the timelessness and peace inherent in the rise and fall of the tides. There’s an unassuming coexistence with beauty and natural rhythm.

This is a place where the imprint of man has yet to completely overshadow that which came before, and it’s where environmentalists, conservationists and those who capture images – moving and still – are working to keep things that way so that your next trip will be an unforgettable experience just as wonderful as your last.

Top Vacation Rentals in Apalachicola, Florida

Top Restaurants in Apalachicola, Florida . . . We’re Talking Oysters and Seafood.

Top Vacation Rentals on St. George Island, Florida.

Top Restaurants in St. George Island, Florida.

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