A grand breakfast Budapest style was on the menu in the opulent New York Cafe, celebrating 120 years as “the most beautiful coffee house in the world.”
Strolling along the Grand Boulevard (Erzsébet körút) in Budapest one morning, we thought we’d opt for a “grand breakfast Budapest style” in a historic coffee house. An understated reference to a stop and gawk on the circular bus route map convinced us we should at least check out the incongruously named New York Cafe. Little did we realize.
Entering the cafe’s vestibule is to be transported back to 1894. Budapest was celebrating La Belle Epoque in arts and letters. The Hungarian economy had been bolstered by three decades of dualistic Hapsburg monarchy.
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- Going back in time
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- Vestibule area
In this location, the New York Life Insurance Company completed construction of a wedding cake palace as its Hungarian headquarters, and the building’s cafe was an immediate sensation. Legend has it that writer Ferenc Molnar (“Carousel“), was so delighted with the first day’s heady experience, he threw the cafe’s keys into the Danube so that it would always remain open.
Photo: newyorkcafe.hu
Photo Credit: newyorkcafe.hu
Boscolo Hotel Group, who purchased and renovated the entire building in 2006, describes New York Cafe as the hotel’s “beating heart.” The ceiling frescoes were painted by Gusztav Mannheimer and Ferenc (Franz) Eisenhut. The cafe is illuminated by Venetian chandeliers which enhance the sparkle and polish.
Local and international intellectual celebrities flocked to the New York Cafe in its heydey. Editors of Nyugat, a prominent cosmopolitan literary journal, had offices here in the building. Alexander Korda and Bela Lugosi were regulars. Nowadays, whether you’re a local celebrity or an ordinary traveler, you are served with an impeccable flourish befitting your glamorous surroundings.
Photo: newyorkcafe.hu
Our Hungarian Breakfast
Elegant bites with coffee
Our “grand breakfast Budapest style” felt so opulent in these surroundings. To be honest, we didn’t really concentrate on the food as much as we did the ornamental details. From table to ceiling, each element of our experience was designed to complement this beautiful space. Smiling faces, a bit scarce on every day Budapest residents going about their daily business, on guests and staff alike attested: you can’t not like the New York Cafe.
A grand piano player, of course
Coming from Vienna, we’d seen pomp and grandeur, but it had felt lofty and out of reach. In the New York Cafe, we felt welcomed and encouraged to enjoy the lavish atmosphere as a thing of beauty, rather than importance. Truly the best breakfast Budapest may offer.
Photo: newyorkcafe.hu
Photo: newyorkcafe.hu
Tips: The cafe is celebrating its 120th anniversary this year, culminating in an International Gastronomy Conference with confections contest, and a Grand Ball in October. Located at Erzsébet körút 9-11, the Boscolo Budapest building is one block up from the M2 Blaha Lujza stop on Rakoczi utca. Its location is also quite walkable from the Keleti train station. If you’re staying on the Pest side in one of the major hotels, the Grand Boulevard is a wonderful stroll (open map). While the New York Cafe is rated by some as expensive, we felt our breakfast was fairly priced, coming in at less than $40 at the time of this writing, including champagne.
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We’ll be in Budapest in September. I suspect we’ll be too cheap (um, frugal) to forego the breakfast included in the cost of our hotel, but perhaps we can stop by for an afternoon tea. If I consider that the cost of the food kind of includes a museum admission, it will be more palatable.
Did I detect an opinion that Budapest residents are perhaps not the friendliest in the world 😉
Hi Suzanne – Definitely go for tea or a sweet! You will be interested to look at the adjoining hotel atrium, too. It truly is a stunning renovation. To think that this place was used as storage during the Depression, war and Soviet years!
Budapest residents seemed not as “smiley” as those in Vienna or Prague. Pete remarked as much on our first day. By the end of our second day, we’d figured it out. There was not a lot to smile about here for a long time, and life is still tough for many. That being said, I love the “rough around the edges” energy in Budapest, and we tended to meet Hungarians who went out of their way to make even the smallest experience memorable for us. It is my favorite city in Europe so far.
We stopped in the New York Cafe just to take a quick picture. Couldn’t afford to eat there. We also found that a lot of the older people in Budapest weren’t the happiest but having seen so much suffering through the ages, it’s understandable. The younger people were more cheerful. Thanks for sharing Betsy!
Aloha Nat – I think you could be right about the generational disparity. It will be interesting to see what happens in the city in the next ten years.
What opulence! Love the Belle Epoch and it’s ornate architecture. If it was $40 for two- it seems okay- $40 each: a bit pricy.
Aloha santafetraveler – yes, it was $40 for two. Coming from Hawaii prices, we thought that was okay.
Opulent is certainly the right word to describe this place. Like you, I think I’d find it hard to pay attention to my food. I’d be too busy looking around. I’ll remember the New York Cafe should I get to Budapest.
Aloha Donna – Glad to share the visual feast with you. 🙂
Oh, I wish I’d gone there for breakfast or an afternoon treat as you suggest. The New York Cafe is definitely on my list for next visit.
Aloha Michele – indeed. I’d go even just for coffee or ice cream. There was a young mother and her daughter who’d been shopping at a table next to us who were doing just that.
Oh my I am longing to return – gorgeous photos! I should not have read this, though, while hungry – now I’m starving 😉
Aloha Anne – There are so many details that it is quite overwhelming. Hope you visit!
What an amazing place! I can see how the decor would distract from the food. Wish I had visited when I was there. It’s on my Go-Back list!
Aloha Irene – Glad to recommend this. It truly is one of a kind. 🙂
Wow! Sorry we missed this when we were in Budapest.
Aloha Veronica, Don’t feel bad. If I hadn’t seen the unassuming little blurb on the map, we’d have totally overlooked this, too.
Breakfast in such a beautiful spot is an experience in itself! We’ll have to try it when we make it to Budapest.
Aloha, Shelley! Hope you can enjoy it as much as we did. 🙂
Now that’s ambiance! This looks like a once in a lifetime breakfast! We haven’t yet explored Eastern Europe but it’s way up there on our list, hopefully in the not so distant future we’ll make it.
Aloha Patti – Hopefully, it’ll be more than once in a lifetime! This was our first trip to Central Europe and it won’t be our last. 🙂
When I was in Budapest in 2004, the New York Cafe was closed for repairs. Thanks for taking me there today. I do wish I’d been able to enjoy a breakfast there, too!
Aloha Carole – Yes, the Buscolo Group did not purchase the building and the cafe until 2006. It opened in 1954 as “Hungaria,” but was allowed to deteriorate under Soviet rule. Many coffee houses were totally closed by the regime, as they were thought to encourage underground activities. At one point, the space was used for storage. Miraculous restoration – I hope you get to return. 🙂
This looks amazing, and one more reason to go back to Budapest. I think your breakfast was a “steal”, when you take into account the one of a kind atmosphere. Yep, I would be there in a heartbeat!
Aloha Nancie – yes, one more reason to return to Budapest among many. 🙂
Thank you so much for the virtual tour of a magnificent place and meal. I loved it all. I am always thrilled to eat a fancy breakfast, because I love all of the little plates and pitchers. Just a wonderful post!
Aloha Suzanne – Me, too! The little individual pots of coffee were fabulous, and the spoons and other details were just beautiful. Of course, I had to get them refilled. 🙂
What a visual delight! You not only had a breakfast – you had an E-X-P-E-R-I-E-N-C-E !
Aloha Anita – Yes, you’re absolutely right! The mark of a good one is when you’re still thinking about it six months later, as I am. 🙂
Another example of what a fabulous refurnbishing job the Boscolo Group does on these grand old hotels. Like their property in Prague, very elegant!
Aloha Ursula – Another reason to go back to both cities! 🙂
Wow, Betsy! That looks like quite the place. I guarantee you will never forget that breakfast. Those kind of memories are indeed priceless.
Aloha Doreen – you are so very right!
Hi Betsy,
I felt like I was with you on your eloquently-described morning visit to the New York Cafe. Cafe, indeed! Ain’t it grand when a bite of food can be elevated to such a level?
Lucky, lucky you — and thanks for sharing it.
Wishing you safe and happy travels always and all ways,
Josie
Aloha Josie – you’re absolutely right. What an experience.
Thanks for this post, Betsy. There’s a chance I may be in Budapest later this year. If that happens, I will definitely check out this place, at least for a coffee and a sweet. It looks like an unforgettable experience.
Hi Donna – You will not regret it! It really is unforgettable. If you do get to Budapest, make sure I tell you about our favorite Hungarian Jewish restaurant for dinner!
Hi !! I’m going to Budapest in September and this looks amazing !! SO i was wondering if you had to make reservations to get breakfast ??
Thanks for all your shared information !!
Hi An-Sofie – No, we did not have to make a reservation. You should be able to walk in and be accommodated, particularly in the mid-morning. 🙂