Just outside Stuttgart in southwest Germany is Ludwigsburg, where you can visit a palace inspired by Versailles with fairytale gardens.
Schloss Ludwigsburg and Garden ca. 1810 Photo Credit: webmap.geoinform.fh-mainz.de
We are fortunate to have visited family friends near Ludwigsburg, Germany on more than one occasion. Each time, a trip to Schloss Ludwigsburg (Ludwigsburg Palace) has been on the menu of things to do. In the summer of 2002, when all the kids were younger, the entire visit was spent in the palace gardens.
This past winter, our visit took the form of a private guided tour inside the Palace on a day it was closed to the general public. We even got to visit some places that are normally off limits and see things most people do not get to see. It pays to have friends with connections!
Touring Ludwigsburg Palace
Schloss Ludwigsburg
We arrived at the Palace on foot, a short walk from the car park in the center of Ludwigsburg. Our friend, Carmen, had arranged with her friend Gaby, who works at the castle as a guide, to take us through. Gaby turned out to be the perfect hostess. Her infectious sense of humor and vast knowledge entertained us with anecdotes and information we might not have picked up from a more traditional walk-through.
Pete and Carmen
As we wrapped ourselves more closely against the winter’s chill (no central heating in those days), Gaby gave us a quick education on the Palace’s architecture and décor. We would encounter three different styles – Baroque, Neoclassic, and Rococo – as the castle had been added to and remodeled several different times. These elements combined into a sumptuous and breathtaking décor that was still evident, even though fabrics and furnishings remain in their original, not restored, condition. Rooms of state and private royal apartments alike were draped in fine linens and tapestries, and their lavish furnishings attested to the prestige the palace and its occupants enjoyed. Because of the fragile condition of many of the fabrics and wall coverings, photography inside the Palace is prohibited. As such, unless otherwise attributed, photos in this post come from the castle’s official website.
We were also privileged to tour the old servants quarters in the various wings. These were in vast and stark contrast from the royal environs. Very little light penetrated these cave-like interiors. With the bare minimum of conveniences and depressingly murky atmosphere, the servants’ spaces confirmed the expectation that they were rarely to be seen and even more rarely heard.
Eberhard Ludwig
Ludwigsburg’s Ludwig (not to be confused with “Mad” King Ludwig II who built Neuschwanstein Castle, although maybe he really wasn’t insane, but I digress) was actually a Duke. Eberhard Ludwig von Württemberg was appointed as head of the Württemberg state in 1693 at the age of sixteen, thanks to the machinations of his widowed mother on Habsburg Holy Roman Emperor Leopold I.
Heavily influenced, both politically and esthetically, by a visit to Versailles in 1700, Duke Eberhard Ludwig laid the cornerstone of what was to become Residenzschloss Ludwigsburg in the year 1704. The residence was originally planned as a hunting lodge getaway, as the duke left much of his official duties as head of the Württemberg government to administrative advisors in Stuttgart.
In 1718, Eberhard Ludwig established Ludwigsburg as his principal place of residence, and hired an Italian plasterer, Donato Giussepi Frisoni, to act as architect in the palace’s expansion. Frisoni incorporated Baroque elements, connecting galleries, and two pavilions to the original plan. As well, the gardens were redesigned.
Frisoni Drawing
While he admired the power and absolute authority he’d seen wielded by France’s King Louis XIV, Ludwig’s efforts to establish similar oversight in Württemberg faltered. As a result, financial challenges required Ludwig to incentivize workers with free living quarters around the palace over the course of its construction. This housing later became the charming town of Ludwigsburg, which was symmetrically laid out and uniformly built in accordance with Frisoni’s plans. Frisoni,one of Ludwigsburg’s wealthiest residents at the time of the duke’s death in 1733, was later accused and acquitted of embezzlement.
Schloss Ludwigsburg
Ludwig’s scandalous personal life influenced the palace’s environs as well. Inside a mirrored cabinet in his bedroom was a secret staircase he used to access the bedroom of his long-time mistress, Wilhelmine von Grävenitz, a commoner he married in 1707. However inconveniently, he hadn’t divorced his first wife, who remained in Stuttgart, forcing von Grävenitz’s exile to Switzerland. The Emperor only allowed her to return once she’d married another man, rendering Ludwig’s bigamy null. Ludwig went on to build a separate smaller palace, the Schloss Favorite (as she was), for Wilhemine. From his private apartments, he could yearningly gaze across the Palace grounds to catch a glimpse of her.
Wilhelmine
Politically astute, Wilhelmine and her new husband were members of the duke’s “Secret Cabinet” along with receiving other special privileges and financial rewards. Naturally, this did little to endear her to the general public. By 1731, when the duke reconciled with his wife, von Grävenitz was arrested and exiled to Berlin, although allowed to keep many of the financial assets bestowed upon her.
The grand Baroque residence was finished in 1733 and remains the epicenter of Ludwigsburg today. As well, it is one of the largest extant examples of original Baroque buildings in Europe, with over 450 rooms and princely apartments. Duke Eberhard Ludwig’s successors added their personal touches to the palace, particularly Friedrich I, who was made King of Württemberg in 1806 by Napoleon, who had occupied the state militarily six years previously. This appointment and military alliance came at a cost: over 15,000 Württemberg soldiers were sacrificed during Napoleon’s Russian campaign.
King Friedrich, whose English wife Charlotte Mathilde was a daughter of King George (yes, that one), used Ludwigsburg as a summer residence. With Charlotte’s influence, the gardens and royal apartments took on more Classical elements. She was by all accounts a kindly woman with a penchant for domestic arts such as needlework and decorative painting.
Classical design elements brought in by Charlotte
Charlotte’s extensive collection of painted porcelain includes her own work, and can be seen throughout their private rooms. Her summer “work room” is particularly attractive, filled with the necessary light she needed for her embroidery, which adorns much of the upholstery on their Biedermeier and neo-classical furnishings.
Friedrich
“Fat Friedrich,” as Charlotte’s husband was known, was a man of considerable girth. According to our guide Gaby, Napoleon was said to have remarked that Friedrich was living proof of how far human skin could expand. (!) The bed in Friedrich’s apartment was structurally bolstered to accommodate his weight. This was a detail my brother, who had been an exchange student with our friends, vividly recalled after 30 years.
We especially enjoyed the impressive Schlosstheater, installed by Eberhard Ludwig and modernized by Friedrich in the Classical style. Our friend, Carmen, who volunteers from time to time as an usher at the Schlosstheater when performances are held today, was knowledgeable about many of the theater’s details. The intact mechanical stage machinery was ingenious in its design – it can be operated solely by one person on a rotating axis and is still used. Additionally, the theater still has 16 elaborately painted period set backdrops, which have been meticulously restored.
Schlosstheater
Escorted backstage, we were amused by what must have been sophisticated sound effects in their day, and recreated wind, rain and thunder using these ingenious methods. Then, making our way to the duke’s elaborate box, we imagined the grandeur of attending a performance in days gone by. Gaby was well versed in the nuances of 17th and 18th century court etiquette, which required obsequious deference in accordance with a complicated hierarchical structure of influence. This meant, among other things, elaborate curtsies and flourishes, as well as abrupt performance endings should royals be displeased or out of sorts.
Restored backdrop
Palace Grounds and Gardens
The beautiful gardens and grounds that surround the palace were delicately and distinctly designed with Italian elements reflecting Frisoni’s esthetic. Meticulous landscaping and a beautiful variety of plants and foliage balance the palace’s symmetry. Friedrich restored the main gardens from neglect beginning in 1798, and then went on to establish two private formal gardens in the English style adjacent to his rooms and those of Charlotte.
Photo Credit: planetware.com
Perhaps the most striking and amusing aspect of Schloss Ludwigsburg’s gardens, however, is the historical Fairytale Garden (Der Märchengarten) and Playground. This must have been the Disneyland of its day. With an artificial castle ruin, a carousel and a playground with swings and water features, this area is a favorite for children of all ages. Vintage mechanical puppets and animated figurines recreate classic fairy tales in a human scale village setting: Rapunzel lets down her hair, Hansel and Gretel approach the witch’s cottage, gnomes point the way, and animals come to life.
The romantic air, magnificent views, original appointments and furnishings, and of course, the Fairytale Garden make Schloss Ludwigsburg a must, even if you might be “castle’d out” from other European experiences. A thoughtful variety of tours are available that will suit your interests, or you can wander the Palace gardens and the Fairytale Garden at your own pace. Schloss Ludwigsburg also has extensive and charming children’s programming that we eavesdropped upon at the end of our visit, with prince and princess dress-up clothing, authentic handicrafts and role-playing that looked like lots of fun!
Tips: Make time to wander the streets of Ludwigsburg adjacent to the Palace, where you’ll see the orderly village layout Ludwig’s architect designed, along with the workers’ residences that are occupied today by lucky Ludwigsburgers. The main square in Ludwigsburg is flanked by Roman Catholic and Protestant churches – reflecting the Reformation’s influence on daily life, each of which has interesting architectural elements.
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- Ludwigsburg Square
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- Ludwigsburg Square
Duck in for a coffee or a cold drink in one of the small restaurants, and look for the delicious apricot liqueur we enjoyed in one of the small specialty shops, where you can dispense it into the decorative bottle of your choosing.
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- Apricot Liqueur
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- Our group happily awaits hot drinks!
Ludwigsburg is a very quick local train ride from the Stuttgart Hauptbanhof train station. Stay standing, arrival times are very precise and we found out the hard way the train’s doors open and close quickly! 🙂
Other fun sites in Ludwigsburg
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What a neat place! I love those old castles – think of all the stories they could tell!
Bula Nancy – I love hearing the inhabitants come alive with a good guided tour, but I always think about the secrets that didn’t make the narrative and what they must be. 🙂
Such interesting history, and the castles really get my storytelling juices going 🙂 Would love to visit more of Europe’s castles too. Great photos too!
Bula Johanna – Me, too. I find the people so interesting, and a good guide like Gaby makes them come to life! 🙂
wow that is an amazing castle, thanks for the history lesson.
Bula Nat – Glad you enjoyed it! 🙂
When I was about five years old my father was stationed in Stutgartt. I remember my family visited Ludwigsburg Castle. We traveled all over Eurupe. I always loved the Fairy tale garden. Thank you so much for the memories !!!!
The Schloss Ludwigsburg truly is a fairytale destination. I love that shade of pale blue throughout the interior.
Bula Michele – Yes, that shade is really pretty. Since this was primarily a summer home, I’m sure it didn’t have as much of a chilling effect as it did when we walked through in January. 😉
Thanks for the tour of Schloss Ludwigsburg. It sounds like a fascinating place to visit with an interesting history. I’d love to see the fairytale garden.
Bula Donna – The fairytale garden is definitely fun, no matter how old a kid you are! 🙂
I love history (mixed with some juicy story telling) and I so enjoyed your post with the marvelous castle, theater and video of the imaginative playground. Schloss Ludwigsburg and the village have been placed on my list of “must sees”!
Bula Anita – How wonderful! You won’t regret it. Next time we visit (and we will, as we just hosted the sons of this family before we left Kauai), I plan to spend more time in the village proper. I think it’s fascinating that the workers’ housing is still pretty much intact and used as residences today.
Schloss Ludwigsburg certainly looks like a place I would enjoy visiting. All its history is very fascinating. I enjoyed seeing the video of the Fairytale Garden amusements I think some of the displays may be a little scary for very young children, however, as my grandchildren would be frightened of that big giant, and Red Riding Hood’s wolf grandmother! 😉
Bula Pat – You’re right, the fairytales depictions are authentic from the 19th century, and those can be scary and gruesome (like the original Grimm’s appear from our perspective). But there are other aspects of the children’s area, like the water features and playgrounds that are lots of fun for the littles. 🙂
We are headed for Germany in a few weeks, but unfortunately we won’t be able to make it to Ludwigsburg. Looks like we need to put it on our list for a future visit.
Bula Veronica – Ludwigsburg/Stuttgart isn’t far from Munich by train, and it’s pretty easy to get to other visitors’ favorite cities like Heidelberg or Rothenburg ob der Tauber from this location. Pete and I realized there’s much more to Germany than the little we saw on this trip, too.
I loved this post! I could write a term paper with all of the wonderful facts you supplied. It was so interesting to learn the personal history as well as seeing the incredible photos!
Bula Suzanne – Thank you, I’m glad you enjoyed it! Ludwigsburgers are justifiably proud of this attraction and you’re right, the royal history is just as intriguing as other more well-known stories.
I absolutely loved this piece on Ludwigsburg. We’ve been to Stuttgart and can’t believe we didn’t make the trip over. Guess we’ll just have to make another trip! Thanks for the great details and photos.
Bula Sue – Ludwigsburg is so charming, you won’t regret another visit to the area. 🙂
You sure got a lot out of your guided tour. Thanks for the history lesson. Love the gardens – they are often where I like to start when I’m visiting a castle, palace…
Bula Leigh – Yes, the gardens are magnificent. We didn’t spend much time outdoors this visit; it was so cold in January. But I’ve never seen anything like the mechanical fairytale garden. It is still amazing two hundred years later.
I’m going on two European river cruises in the next 6 months and both go through Germany so I’m now hoping it may be possible to see this place I’d never heard of before! It looks fascinating and I love the messy personal lives that have inhabited it!
Bula Kay – I’m pretty new to German history in this time frame. Just the nature of the individual duchy states, with all the strategic alliances and maneuvering, must have presented an amazing challenge politically and militarily for those in power, or those (like Napoleon) who wanted to be. One can see by the map how important Württemberg was to keep things geographically sewn up. Stuttgart isn’t too far from the Rhine. I think some of the cruises even use the Neckar, if I’m not mistaken; perhaps yours will.
How lucky you were to have a special tour!
I love it when fabrics are left un-restored – I think an energy is left on them from the people who have come into contact with them throughout time and somehow you can feel a closer connection to its history. You get a sense that the people who lived there have not long left the room – A wonderful experience 🙂
Bula Linda – That’s a fascinating point about the residual energy in the fabrics and objects, and I would tend to agree. The “faded glory” was still evident, but the “Miss Havisham” quality was a bit jarring, too.
Having just toured the Hofburg Palace in Vienna, based on your extensive narrative and photos, these Hapsburgs did a serious job of one-upmanshipping their Hapsburg cousins in Vein. I guess “downsizing” wasn’t a thing yet. 😉
Bula Suzanne – It’s just mind-boggling the level and pervasive quality of the opulence during this time period, isn’t it? Although, I’m sure there was much more to the common man’s experience that didn’t survive, judging from the glimpse we had of the servants’ life.
It’s a good thing no one can afford to live in these places anymore, so that we are able to visit. I especially admire Ludwig’s ability to delegate state duties so that he could focus on his ‘playhouse’ and mistress. Fun reading.
Bula Kristin – Good point! These monuments to “themselves” live on (perhaps not as closely as they intended, but still). 🙂
Hi Betsy,
A grand hunting lodge indeed! How wonderful you got that private guided tour so you all could relish each and every aspect of the incredible “little place!” A memory to last forever, no doubt.
I will put it in the back of my mind to be brought out — and seek out — when in Germany.
Thanks for taking us along.
Josie
Bula Josie – Yes, we were very fortunate that our friend Carmen has this connection. It was a special treat. 🙂
Wow, I would love to visit that castle. And the Fairytale Garden is gorgeous! Sounds like a great place for both adults and kids.
Bula Lois – Yes, it’s really an accessible attraction for all ages. If you don’t want to tour the castle itself, the gardens and play areas will be enjoyable. 🙂
Thanks for the tour of Schloss Ludwigsburg. Seeing much of it in its original unrestored state would be fascinating. It would be great to attend a performance in the historic theatre, and imagine the people from previous days dressed up in their finery.
Bula Shelley – The theatre’s size is so intimate, I’m sure it was a thrill for the courtiers to be in such close proximity to the royals, too. 🙂
Betsy, I had to smile at your ‘chilly reception’. I went through in February (years ago) and could understand why some of these marvellous places are closed in the winter. Even in boots and a fur coat (!) I was freezing! Fascinating history. Well done.
Bula Ursula – Thank you, glad you enjoyed it. Yes, I found myself wishing for the fur coat I had in Minnesota (previous life). This time around my down puffer had to serve me. 😉
What beautiful photos! Looks very Parisienne!:-)
Bula Irene – I’m sure Ludwig would have loved that observation, seeing as he was so enamored of Versailles. 🙂
I loved visiting Versailles! Schloss Ludwigsburg looks even more opulent which I didn’t think was possible.
Bula Michelle – I think the difference is Versailles seems frozen in time from the events of the revolution, and of course it is restored. In Ludwigsburg, Friedrich and Charlotte’s legacy built on that of Eberhard Ludwig’s, so it’s a multi-generational result with different period styles. Nothing seemed to me to be more opulent than Versailles’ Hall of Mirrors, but of course that was a state space, rather than a private apartment. Schloss Ludwigsburg’s opulence seemed on a more livable scale, if one can say that about a palace. 🙂
I’ve added Schloss Ludwigsburg and Ludwigsburg to my must-do list for next time I am in Germany. Have you ever visited Regensburg? If not, my article about it might interest you, http://berkeleyandbeyond.com/Way-Beyond/Travel-Articles/Abroad/Regensburg-Germany/regensburg-germany.html
Bula Carole – Glad we inspired you to add Ludwigsburg. Unfortunately, we had to nix Regensburg on this last trip, but it has a definite spot on our list for next time we’re in Germany. It’s so close to Prague, we’re sure to easily include it with a revisit. 🙂
Oh, the castles and palaces of Germany! Ludwigsburg look particularly amazing — haven’t been there. Interesting that is was modeled after Versailles — much like the other Ludwig — “Mad” King Ludwig modeled his Herrenchiemsee Palace after Versailles.
Bula Cathy – Indeed, it seems as though all these royals wanted very much to live as opulently as possible. Hope you get a chance to visit Ludwigsburg. Next time, we’ll chase the “other Ludwig,” ourselves. 🙂
More inspiration for our upcoming trip to Germany-I love it! We went to Versailles last year so it would be cool to make the comparison. I definitely remember the punctuality of the trains from my last visit to Germany. I often wish they were like that here in the United States. My question is did you get to see Wilhemine’s secret staircase and quarters?! Thanks for sharing 🙂
Bula Catherine – Yes, we did see the mirrored cabinet which had the secret stairway. It makes you wonder how “secret” it really was, though. I’m sure all the servants and certain of the courtiers knew. 🙂