“There’s only one place I’d really like to go on this trip,” Pete declared. And just like that, we were led to Liechtenstein by a mouse and a lion.
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The only thing I knew from The Mouse That Roared was the [easyazon_link identifier=”B001NJRWX0″ locale=”US” tag=”passi0c2-20″]movie[/easyazon_link] starring Peter Sellers, whom I consider a genius. The little Cold War comedy didn’t really stack up by comparison with the rest of Sellers’ body of work, but it was amusing in its way. I remembered that Sellers played just about every part in the film and then promptly set my memories aside to begin researching accommodations in Liechtenstein. We could figure out how to get there later.
It didn’t take long to decide on a hotel. The Hotel Gastof Löwen jumped out of the search results. The Hotel Löwen (literally “lions”) is the oldest hotel and restaurant in the capital city of Vaduz in the Principality of Liechtenstein. Its front door is inches from Herrengasse, the major street in Vaduz. Herrengasse follows an ancient Roman road which crossed the Eastern Alps by way of the Splügen Pass and then continued along the Rhine. Just north of Vaduz, near the crossroads in Schaan, there are the remains of a Roman fort used to defend the region against Germanic tribes from the north. Cool, I thought, let’s book it.
Hotel Löwen is inches from Herrengasse, which still follows the old Roman road. The lion points to the Prince’s castle overlooking Vaduz.
Vaduz was designated a medieval county in 1342. Dating from the 1380’s, the Löwen building’s main area was used for pressing grapes from adjacent vineyards, and serving wine to travelers from its extensive cellars. The Hotel was well-known as a major way station on the mercantile road between Vienna and Milan.
Hotel Löwen’s vineyards
Concurrently, the Liechtenstein family was amassing power. They took their name from Castle Liechtenstein in Lower Austria, which they owned in the 12th and 13th centuries. They were estate barons with additional holdings in Moravia and Styria (a region which extends from what is now southern Austria into Slovenia). Initially, these massive estates were under fief to superior monarchs in the Habsburg line, to whom the Liechtensteins served as advisors.
In the 1600’s, the Hotel Löwen underwent further adornments. Renovations in the 20th century uncovered a dining room fresco and intricately painted ceilings from this period. Ornate carvings in wooden paneling in another room depict the story of the Nibelungen.
Painted cupboard in the Hotel Löwen’s reception
Line marking an ancient addition in Hotel Löwen’s lower level
In 1719, Emperor Charles VI combined Vaduz and Schellenberg counties into a principality, conferring princely status to the family in the Holy Roman Empire. The two county identities remain present within Liechtenstein’s modern electorate today, which is divided as Oberland (south) and Unterland (north).
In the early 1800’s the Hotel Löwen building received a mansard roof and several additions in the French style. In 1806, Liechtenstein had achieved sovereignty by alliance with Napoleon’s Confederation of the Rhine upon the dissolution of the Holy Roman Empire, and then retained complete independence in 1815.
An early 19th century painting of the Hotel Löwen with its “new” mansard roof on the road which is now Herrengasse
Various alliances throughout the first half of the 19th century reflected the political volatility in the region, and led to Liechtenstein’s declaration of neutrality in 1868. This status was respected through WWI and WWII, although not without adverse political and economic consequences.
Vaduz is nestled between the river and the mountains
The Mouse That Roared is a lighthearted lampoon of Cold War era sensibilities. Irish author Leonard (Leo for lion? coincidence, right?) Wibberley depicts an impoverished wine-producing European duchy with a big plan: it will attack and invade the United States on pretext. It will deliberately lose, which will invoke Marshall Plan-like compensation from the U.S. for economic hardship when the war games are said and done. Instead, hilariously, the little country wins.
Hotel Löwen’s vineyard
Although Wibberley left his muse deliberately undisclosed, it’s hard not to associate little Liechtenstein with his fictitious fiefdom. Even his preferred title for the book, The Wrath of Grapes, provokes further parallels, as well as a nod to his own favorite author. Although he was favorably compared in his day with Jonathan Swift and Ernest Hemingway, Wibberley believed Steinbeck the better writer:
“I think Steinbeck was far greater than Hemingway. He could write about the details of people’s existence down to the lowest level. He understood thirst, dust, aching feet, and hopelessness. And he understood that we will endure and finally conquer these things.”
After WWII, Liechtenstein was economically ravaged as well. It aggressively modernized and re-monetized its economy with attractive corporate tax rates and havens. Mirroring Swiss banking examples and specializing in lenient financial services, Liechtenstein attracted heavy foreign investment. The result has been a complete transformation from a primarily agricultural economy to one of industry and service.
Vaduz – the old with the new
In today’s Liechtenstein, wages are high (with teachers at the top of the salary chart) and unemployment is low. This well-being comes at a price, however, with cost of living comparable to neighboring Switzerland. Liechtenstein is an expensive little country. Even so, it’s rarely difficult for us to justify a one-night splurge.
Vaduz Government Rathaus
I was reminded by a line from a description of Wibberley’s plotline of stepping into the Hotel Gasthof Löwen: a medieval remnant in a modern world. You must use the oversized iron key you’re given to open the heavy front door, and pull it securely closed against the Herrengasse traffic outside. The hotel’s walls are thick; you take a step or two in the interim between today and yesterday, emerging into a reception area which stays rooted in centuries long past. The doorways and window openings are recessed to insulate you from one space to another. Your cocoon is softened by these layers.
Hallway to our room
The hotel’s own philosophy is a literal, charming translation – “in our hectic times we should now and then treat the muse and tranquility to stop the pendulum once for a short time to get back to find our center to regenerate body and mind.” So far removed from this ideal things can seem! Are we now that different from Wibberley’s U.S. Secretary of State in the story, who wonders, “How am I gonna tell the President that we’ve been invaded by a bunch of 15th century Europeans?”
Wibberley, who died in 1982, lived long enough to see his cheeky tale of a mighty little mouse nation taking down a monolithic superpower wax and wane. The Mouse That Roared has gone out of print and come back in again over the past sixty years, a newly and poignantly relevant story of power and the different forms it can take.
We could all use a little more timelessness, whether it’s in the quiet of an overnight stay in a 14th century room on an old Roman road, or written in the entertaining pages of a perfect little political satire. Led by a mouse and a lion indeed.
Moody view of the castle the following morning in Vaduz – woodsmoke signals the Royal Family is at home
Tips and Information: Hotel Gasthof Löwen is a vintage 14th century hotel with 8 guest rooms, event space, fine dining and pub. Host Adele Gantembein will see to every comfort. Herrengasse 35 FL-9490 Vaduz Phone +423238 11 44 Deluxe Double Rooms with castle view CHF349, Standard Double Room CHF299. Single rooms available, all with satellite TV, wireless internet, minibar. Room prices include breakfast, taxes and 3.6%VAT. Pets welcome.
Hotel Löwen’s comfy individual duvets
Villeroy and Boch tile details in our ensuite at Hotel Löwen, not shown: heated floor!
Restaurants and shopping in Vaduz are within a few minutes’ walk of the hotel.
Getting There: Disembark trains from Switzerland and Austria in Sargans and catch the bright green Liechtenstein bus. Change in Schaan for Vaduz, which travels Herrengasse. It will stop within 20 feet of the hotel’s front door. See more details in our post Getting to Liechtenstein is Easy.
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I loved the movie- but didn’t realize The Mouse that Roared was a book first. Great photos- you made Lichtenstein look so inviting- and it’s not a place that was ever on my radar before. Thanks for expanding my travel horizons.
Hi Billie – Liechtenstein was a place where we looked at each other simultaneously and said, “We could definitely live here.” Spotless, prosperous, gorgeous scenery, friendly folks, delicious food (it’s the crossroads of Italy and Germany, with a little French thrown in) and great wine. What’s not to like? 🙂
Loved learning about this country and it’s great that they revere their teachers! What a charming hotel, too~
Hi Irene – Yes, a teacher makes on average about $90K USD if I recall correctly. Food for thought.
OMG, Leo – leonard – mouse – this was meant to be. Liechtenstein has been on our radar for a while and this has now validated it. We went through it but didn’t have time to get out at Sargans, more is the pity.
Hi Paula – LOL I know, it was kinda funny! Be sure to take the side trip in when you can manage. 🙂
Great post. You made me giggle about it being Pete’s “one solitary request”. Hubby indulges me as well, but when he does make a request I listen!
Hi Dianne – When I heard the reason, how could I object? 🙂
I’ve heard of the book, but have never read it. I had no idea it was made into a movie, and with Peter Seller’s no less. Until reading your very informative post, I think the only thing I knew about Liechtenstein is that it is the smallest country in Europe. I hope I got that right! Your hotel looks lovely, and if I ever get to this little corner of European loveliness I will be sure to stay in this sea of tranquility! You’re definitely heading for Europe at a good time. The Euro is so low!
Hi Nancie – I think Liechtenstein is something like the 4th smallest, after the Vatican, Monaco, and maybe Andorra? Or Luxembourg? I don’t know for sure, but I’d like to go to all “the littles” now. Yes, the Euro is in our favor this year.
I love the way you research a place and then give us a brief history. We drove through Liechtenstein once but I had no idea of all these intriguing details. European history in Europe seems so vast when you come from the colonies…
Hi Yasha – It’s true, they have hundreds of years on us! I need to brush up between the 11th and 19th centuries in particular. 🙂
That’ll be a life’s work – and a bit more 😉
I never did see the movie but the visit looks really intriguing and the stay at this sweet hotel. How intuitive it was to mimic the success of it’s neighbor to pattern a business and financial services focus and is on top of their economic success in the Euro zone.
Hi Noel – I hoped someone would pick up on that economic parallel. Today, the Prince of Liechtenstein is one of the wealthiest individuals in the world, despite Nazi confiscation of the family holdings in Moravia and Styria. Very, very smart moves in the 50’s turned a poor mouse into a powerhouse.
I wish I, too, had stayed at Hotel Löwen in Liechtenstein instead of the little B&B I wound up at some years ago. It was one of my worst travel experiences ever! It involved theft, overcharging, and a screaming argument with my husband in the street! 🙂 That’s all I’m telling.
Hi Carole – Ouch! Not a good memory!
The Mouse that Roared is a great story. Liechtenstein looks charming. It may be expensive, but you have to think a place where teachers are at the top of the salary scale has some of its priorities right.
Hi Donna – Exactly. And when you’re a neutral country, the impact on the budget of a lack of military spending gives way to all sorts of public betterment.
Well I have not seen the movie The Mouse That Roared, nor read the book. And I have yet to visit Liechtenstein. I have some catching up to do! I enjoyed reading this post – you make me want to do all three – I shall start by reading the book. I do agree with Wibberley, Steinbeck over Swift and Hemingway 🙂
Hi Susan – Wibberley was an interesting guy. He lived in Southern California for quite a few years. I’ll confess to having not read the book as of yet, too. 🙂
I can’t say that Liechtenstein has been on my list of places to visit, but your comprehensive post certainly is making me consider it. Great historical info, loved the castle in the hills, and your hotel was so charming!
Hi Patti – We’re so glad we made the effort. A wonderful stop.
Ooh, I know what I’m reading next! Gorgeous pictures too. Currently sat in the office and I’d forgotten that such places even existed haha!
Hi Dannielle – There’s definitely a storybook quality to the scenery in Liechtenstein. Wibberley’s book is an appealing fable for grown-ups with a timeless moral. 🙂
Very interesting history and the scenery around the hotel looks superb. I’ve been to Liechtenstein a few years ago and had a great trip
Hi Suze – We would definitely return to Liechtenstein to explore more. Such a lovely country.
What a model for a post that invites! A catchy personal beginning, good research into the past, interesting angles for the present…these are things I will now try to do. Do you have to be inspired by the place first? Or is there a technique to follow?
Hi Carol – Thank you so much. I find that general curiosity and interest in history typically inspires me. It helps to have a husband who comes up with the darndest ideas, too. 😉
Hi Betsy,
Living in Switzerland for many years, lots of places were visited, however Liechtenstein was not one. Not sure why, but from reading this post with the wonderful photos, I’m sure we will have to visit sometime soon.
Hi John – I’m sure you would enjoy Liechtenstein very much! A big benefit would be your Swiss connection, so many similarities.
Great photos and story!! I haven’t heard of it before.
Hi Christine – Happy to introduce you! 🙂
There are so many different reasons to pick a destination so a good book and/or movie that made a huge impression of your husband sounds perfectly plausible. Loved the interesting history recap and your introduction to this fascinating country has me intrigued and thinking about a future visit…
Hi Anita – I agree. Good writers and movies can be so inspiring. Look what “that book” Paula wrote about did for Bali! 😉
Very nice! We have passed through Liechtenstein but it didn’t occur to us to stay. Guess we should have looked a little deeper.
Hi Gypsynesters – Put it on your list for next time! 🙂
I devoured every word (and gorgeous photo!) in this post. I have not read the book but now I must track down a copy. Your post was filled with outstanding information and it is always a great day when you learn something new and are enticed to explore further. I hope my hubs and I can add an overnight stay on our European travels next year. thank you
Hi Nancy – So happy to inspire you to consider a visit. I’m sure you will love it.
I loved this post, Betsy! You’ve added a new destination to the bucket list, a new book to the reading list and a new movie to the viewing list. . .what a great combination. I love ‘novel’ destinations.
Hi Jackie – So happy to influence your travel, reading and viewing plans. 🙂
This made me regret not stopping in Liechtenstein but is also a good reason to return 🙂
Hi Nat – Indeed! Put it on the list!
Wonderful post on Liechtenstein. I’ve never read nor seen the movie The Mouse That Roared but it’s on my list now. I love that you included the individual duvets. We had them while staying in Germany and have replicated it here at home. Ideal for those couples who prefer different temperature settings at night.
Hi Sue – Oh, the individual duvets, yes. Such a simple solution to an aggravating problem when you sleep with a covers hog! 😀
Oh, those majestic mountains! Sorry I missed visiting Liechtenstein when I was in Europe. Perhaps a mouse and lion will indirectly lead me there in the future now.
Hi Vicki – There’s always next time! 🙂
Liechtenstein is now on my bucket list!
Hi Tiana – Great!
Hi Betsy,
An absolute fairy tale! — One that started from a (sort of) fairy tale!
And your pretty prose topped it off perfectly!
All the best,
Josie
Hi Josie – So happy you enjoyed it. Thank you!
I love the photo by the vineyards wherein the mountains are the backdrop — absolutely stunning! I will definitely try to be in Liechtenstein while I’m here in Europe!
Hi Aileen – Thank you so much. I am sure you would really enjoy a visit. 🙂
Never heard of the book or movie, but am now curious as an average book nerd. Absolutely stunning photos, that entice me to visit Liechtenstein! But need to read the book first 😉
Hi Andrea – I think you’d probably enjoy the book! It has to have something going for it if it made an impression on my husband that lasted for 40 years. 🙂
I have never thought of visiting Liechtenstein before. It looks a very nice place! Thanks for the great post!
Hi Chrysoula – I’m sure you would enjoy a visit. Thanks.
Those majestic mountain on the background is enough to encourage me to visit this beautiful place. Those photos are awesome!
Hi Anne – It’s not hard to take a good photo in Liechtenstein. The subject matter presents itself wherever you look.
Funny this is the second post I’m reading on Liechtenstein and now I want to go. Feels a little like the road less travelled but I smiled at what attracted you to this beautiful place. I agree, it’s amazing what can take us to places we least expected to visit. Thanks for sharing.
Liechtenstein is one of those places we know hardly anything about but it’s so random we really want to visit! Looks like there is actually a lot more to it than just a little country perched in between more well know lands. The scenery and architecture look amazing, love the story too!
Hi Guys – You’d love it, and you’re lucky you can get there relatively quickly.
Loved hearing that teachers are so well paid. We should take a lesson. The views you’ve shown us are stunning!
Hi Alison – Yes, we could learn quite a few things from Liechtenstein’s example. It’s a beautiful country.
It’s funny how we have all these ministates in Europe, it must be nice to visit Liechtenstein. I lived in Switzerland for a while, but was too busy hiking around the high mountains, and never got there. Maybe one day!
Hi Gabor – I know! The “littles” are on my radar and I want to visit them all. You’d love Liechtenstein.
So stunning! I have been to Liechtenstein myself but sadly didn’t have the most time to explore as generously as you did! I love the photos you have compiled here, so gorgeous 🙂
Hi Alli – Thank you so much! Glad you enjoyed!
Looks like a very home-y place indeed! I can only imagine all the great food and wine!
Wow, I was in Liechstenstein a few years ago (it was really short visit), but I don`t remeber it as beautiful as it looks like on your photos! So dreamy and romantic!
Hi Andreja – It really is gorgeous and atmospheric. We’d love to return.
Aww this is so cute. I love the context, because I do relate to it. Deciding on going some place utterly random, because it isn’t random to you. And I’m glad you guys ended up liking it! That’s why we travel, don’t we?
Hi Revati – Yes, it was sort of random, but as good a reason as any we thought going in. Now we’re very glad we visited Liechtenstein.
Anita Breland and I live in Switzerland, not far away, we are thinking of a trip to Liechtenstein after reading your post. Thank you.
Hi Tom – Glad we could inspire you!