We were running out of time. With choices dwindling, we abandoned our visit to Sighisoara and took the night train from Budapest to Bucharest instead.
Our plan had a gray area that spilled over a couple of days between Budapest and Russia, and there was Romania, smack dab in the middle of it. We’d had a run-in with Romania before in the form of a cancelled trip, and I felt like we were losers all over again. I’d become enamored of the idea of spending a night in Sighisoara, which I hoped would be a stop on some sort of train from Budapest to Bucharest. I’d even booked a night’s stay in a 17th century residence, but then promptly left how we were going to get there up in the air. The schedules were complicated and there were other matters needing attention.
Then we spooked ourselves. Our German hosts had been opinionated about rural Hungary and Romania, and their opinions were not reassuring. Plus, the weather was worsening. We’d successfully avoided snow throughout Europe until this point, but Romania was getting dumped on. The train from Budapest to Bucharest didn’t appear to stop in Sighisoara except by roundabout, time-consuming route. I couldn’t wrap my head around the major difference in distance between the Hungarian border and Bucharest itself. There was a whole lot of ground to cover in Romania.
So, it looked like we’d fly into Targu Mures from Budapest, and then have to hire a car of some sort over about 50 km of mountain roads. It seemed kind of scary, to be honest, and our schedule was tightening. We decided to cancel the expensive reservation and spend the night on the train from Budapest to Bucharest. This would give us time to catch our breath before our flight to Russia.
If you’re holding a Eurail pass, you still need a reservation for an overnight train. Unfortunately, you can’t do this online. So we hiked over to Keleti Station. Keleti is undergoing extensive renovations; it’s a shabby, yet still beautiful, example of classical Belle Epoque architecture. The ticket office in Keleti was a throwback to Soviet efficiency. Meaning, there was none. Numbers were seemingly called out at random, certain windows only for certain things, and Magda, our customer service representative, was a total caricature: lurid polyester blouse, facial warts and frowny-face.
We were grateful to be done with the experience, only to discover Magda had put us on the 11PM train from Budapest to Bucharest instead of the 7PM we thought we’d requested. After a scolding, which she walked all the way across the office to deliver, we meekly accompanied her back to her window and gratefully accepted tickets for the correct train.
Later, when we’d checked out of our hotel and returned, Pete was happy to find Keleti had a Business Lounge, hidden behind an unassuming door. Inside, voila! Comfortable chairs, snacks and drinks, modern bathroom, tucked away for those in the know, and with the appropriate ticket. We almost hated to leave!
Boarding our train was a little more reassuring. One of the employees walked us to our car, hoisted my luggage aboard, and then followed us outside on the platform, window by window, pointing out the correct compartment. We quickly got settled in very tight quarters. Things were marginally clean, and definitely more than 30 years old. Wandering into the dining car, we met Sean, most recently from Libya, originally out of Ireland.
- Amenity packs, pretty basic
- Bunks were made up with rough linens
- Movable ladder stowed on closet side
- Dining car, surprisingly elegant
Sean, as many of his countrymen do, had a million stories, and he was dying to tell them. Deprived of English-speaking compatriots for the last several days, he bought us the first of what were to be more than a few glasses of wine. He and a Scandinavian family of three were our only companions in first class.
Train employees wear more than one hat on this route. We weren’t sure who to ask for what. The same man who punched our ticket served us drinks in the dining car, but another of his drinking buddies (yes, the employees were all hanging around drinking in the dining car) got up to get us refills. They all changed out of their uniforms into tracksuits at about 10PM, but still affably topped off our wineglasses until we stumbled into our compartments.
As we climbed in altitude, the train speed decreased to a crawl. There was a track change of some sorts, and we later learned the aging infrastructure can’t support higher speeds. Train speeds and quality had declined for us as we traveled eastward beginning in the Czech Republic, so this didn’t come as too big of a surprise. My questions about the timetable were now being answered. Any train from Bucharest to Budapest will take you at least 15 hours. It’s because you’re going s-l-o-w-l-y.
There’s a melancholy aspect layered over a time warp with overnight trains. You can almost imagine yourself part of a film noir full of pre-war spies. Or, you’re peering at a nanosecond’s glimpse of life in the world you’re passing by. I remembered a previous trip from Paris to Munich, gazing at village lights and signs rolling past: Metz, Nancy, Strasbourg, Ulm. This was different. After the border, when armed officials asked for our documents, there was little to be seen. I drifted off to light and fitful sleep. Above me, Pete was having his own problems in the upper bunk; unable to get comfortable, he spent most of the night awake.
At about 8AM, it was beginning to get light. I opened one eye and watched a dilapidated vignette out the window. Three or four stray dogs poked about a snowy path between hillside houses. Frozen laundry hung from clotheslines. Ramshackle chimneys sent smoke billowing into the frosty morning. All was slowly clickety-clacking in a regular fashion when I spotted a sign: Sighisoara. The neighborhood didn’t look so good.
- Lost and waiting?
- Magnificent architectural collage
The landscape was snowy and dismal. We began to see country folk out, bringing feed to the animals in horse-drawn carts piled high with hay, walking in groups toward jobs or school, farm hands and babushkas. In the distance might be a highway with a few headlights breaking through the dim, but for the most part this region lived solidly in the old ways. I googled these two images, which depict what we were seeing.
- Photo credit: northernwoodlands.org
- Photo credit: northernwoodlands.org
Emerging from our compartment and wandering into the dining car, I was graciously, if unintelligibly, asked if I would like some breakfast. My tracksuited friend stubbed out his cigarette when I affirmed I would, and seemingly out of nowhere, presented me with this lovely omelet. When we paid the bill, there was no change available. Instead, we received a chocolate bar from a secret under the counter stash.
We began to ascend again into the Carpathian mountain chain, which was punctuated with alpine-like vistas and holiday villages. This area was part of Hungary prior to WWI. Within these ranges live groups of Szeklers, who some say can trace their lineage back to Attila the Hun, and still speak Hungarian. Other villages were established in medieval times by Transylvanian Saxons, who are of German descent. Still other areas contain Gypsy majorities, or are so mixed that there is not one prominent ethnic group. This map gives you an idea.
Fortunately, I was having better luck with signage. Hungarian and Romanian are two entirely different languages. Hungarian is related to Finnish in language patterns; Romanian is Latin-based. The sign at this station brought a chuckle.
- Cross at the mountain crest
- No problem with language here!
I found myself wondering about these beautiful old buildings. Were they lodges or grand country homes? Spas or hospitals?
- Dacha?
- Hospital or spa?
As we approached Bucharest, villages and towns got larger and more populated. Buildings were newer and in better repair:
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What an adventure! What a delightful story!
Next month my wife and I are going to visit our daughter in Turkey (we are from South Africa) and our son in London. We decided to go by train from Ankara, all across Europe to London.
We have been scouring the internet for background information on the train journey, especially Eastern Europe, but info is very very scarce.
So it was nice to stumble across your article.
We are soooo excited, and would love to read more articles on European train journeys.
Hi Bernie, Welcome to PassingThru! This leg was the last on a route that took us east from Paris on our way to the Olympics earlier this year. I wrote about TGV Lyria Paris-Zurich here: https://passingthru.com/2014/04/high-speed-train-travel-paris-zurich-aboard-tgv-lyria/
We probably did all or part of your contemplated route in reverse: Paris, Zurich, Vaduz, Munich, Stuttgart, Prague, Vienna, Budapest, Bucharest. Will you be purchasing a Pass?
Quite an adventure I’d say. Too bad you couldn’t stop in Sighisoare. That would have been a real treat. The old town is quite a jewel.
Aloha Anda and welcome to PassingThru! Yes, I was very disappointed to have to change our plan, but it goes back on the list. Not done with Romania by a long shot. 😉
I love night trains! Back in the days when you didn’t need reservations I spent a 1/3 of the nights of a 30 day pass on trains – just to avoid hotel costs. I’ve never been to Romania – because this was before the Wall fell. Still on my list!
Aloha Lis and Welcome to PassingThru! Wow, before the Wall fell! It seemed to me little had changed in rural Romania for decades. I always thought night trains were a good way to save on hotels, too. Now that we’re older, I’m afraid our love of creature comforts may override in the future. 🙂
Romania looks so incredibly beautiful and I’m wondering if it’s much less crowded and touristy like the places I’ve visited in France and Italy? The overnight train looks and sounds wonderful. I’d never heard of it or considered it, but I think it’s something I would enjoy. Happy travels!
Aloha Michelle and welcome to PassingThru! Romania is definitely a little more off the beaten path. Bucharest was known at one point to be the “Paris of the East.” We enjoyed spreading our wings in Central Europe, and want to return for more! Thanks. 🙂
Thanks for taking me along on your journey! Overnighting on a train is a very special experience. You don’t necessarily sleep–the click-clacking of the rails is soothing but also noisy–but there is always coffee and breakfast in the morning taken to new scenery. Can’t wait for my next time!
Aloha Carole and welcome to PassingThru! You’re right about the sound of the rails, and for me, morning coffee solves just about everything. Thanks!
So far, the only place we’ve been in Eastern Europe is Prague and we flew in and out. Your description of your overnight train journey sounds like it put you much closer to the ground—in all senses of the phrase. I’ve also never visited any part of Europe other than England during the winter. The winter scenery seems like it added to the other worldliness of the experience. In September, we will be taking the train from Munich to Vienna and then on to Budapest. I’m looking forward to it.
Hi Suzanne – What a beautiful time of year it will be. You’re right, winter added to the mood, and probably was responsible for the relatively deserted atmosphere on the train itself. You will love your trip, I’m sure. In Vienna, you may want to have dinner in the Grinzing wine district. It’s about a 15 minute cab from the Opera House/Inner Ring, where we stayed at the fabulous Hotel Bristol (our review post is recently below this one). The ride from Vienna to Budapest is fairly short. If you are not in the first class area, watch your luggage. A blogger we follow had her backpack stolen from the overhead shelf while she was wasn’t looking.
What struck me was the definitive difference between Austria and Hungary, attributable to the Iron Curtain. It’s like going across 8 Mile Road into Detroit, in a way. Budapest is lovely, gritty, determined and proud (and my favorite of all the cities on this trip). How long will you be? We recommend Fulemule Restaurant, the best meal we had in all of Europe – traditional Jewish and Hungarian cuisine. Also, check out the New York Cafe for breakfast. Over the top. Don’t miss Fisherman’s Bastion and St. Matthias area on the Buda side. Photo albums here: https://www.facebook.com/pages/PassingThrucom/110487609609?sk=photos_albums and several blog posts written. Obviously, I could go on and on. Must get more of these post topics written, am totally backlogged. 🙂
I loved reading this – I was gripped! Beautifully written and accompanied by some gorgeous photography with some tips thrown in. Perfect, thank you!
Aloha Suzanne and welcome to PassingThru! Thank you so much. Pete suggested we make the tips a “thing” in future posts. Glad you liked them and my iPhone photography! 🙂