Munich’s Schwabing neighborhood legacy lives on as an early 20th-century lightning rod for artistic, intellectual and even radical activity.
This wasn’t my first visit to Munich, but it was Pete’s. Since he’s not one for tightly-scripted traditional sightseeing in museums or tourist attractions, I thought we should explore a neighborhood outside of the old city center. Several resources pointed to Schwabing as the perfect example: lots of interesting art nouveau architecture, trendy shops, and a great bar/cafe/restaurant scene.
Earlier in the week, we’d wandered through a marvelous blank slate of a day in Paris soaking in the magic (see here: Paris in Perfect Patina). We wanted a similar experience in Munich. Where the Altstadt was a medieval or Baroque fairy tale, Schwabing might give us a taste of today’s “real Munich,” whatever that might be. So, we were set.
Arriving via UBahn at Schwabing’s Müchner Freiheit square off Leopoldstrasse, we soon realized that its gentrified, cosmopolitan atmosphere complemented an impressive history. In the decades before World War I, Munich was the cultural center of German-speaking Europe. Schwabing, founded in the 8th century, predates Munich by 500 years. Annexed in the 1890’s, it became a lively, bohemian neighborhood which attracted artists, writers, intellectuals, and political ideologues.
Schwabing is probably best known for its big tourist attractions: the enormous Englischer Garden and the Schwabinger Weinachtsmarkt, considered the finest artists’ Christmas market in the city. But its storied culture has been fueled by proximity to the two major universities in Munich. Toward the end of the 19th century, multiple influences converged to make Schwabing a lightning rod for the intelligentsia at the beginning of the 20th.
It could be argued that the 20th century began in Schwabing. In the years just preceding the World War I, Kandinsky painted Western art’s first abstract painting there, Hitler was hanging out in coffeehouses on the Schellingstrasse, and Lenin, midway through his long exile, was writing his most influential political pamphlets in an apartment off the Leopoldstrasse. – J. S. Marcus, The Bohemian Side of Munich
Kandinsky’s 1908 painting: Munich-Schwabing with the Church of St. Ursula
Schwabing came into its own during the reign of Prince Regent Luitpold, who by all accounts was a congenial and benevolent ruler. Luitpold had a keen interest in promoting arts and education in Bavaria, and Munich became a cultural focal point during what are now referred to as the Prinzregentenjahre (literally, the Prince Regent Years) from 1886-1912. This liberal governance enabled the borough of Schwabing, known as Munich’s artist’s quarter, to flourish and attract intellectual talent from other parts of Germany and Europe.
“Schwabing is not a neighborhood, but a state of being.” – Fanny zu Reventlow
In the years between 1890 and 1914, Schwabing was home to such diverse personages as Nobel Prize for Literature winner Thomas Mann, Mann’s brother satirist Heinrich, poet Rainer Maria Rilke, painter Wassily Kandinsky, future revolutionaries Vladimir Lenin and Erich Mühsam, feminist Fanny zu Reventlow, Freud protege and anarchist Otto Gross, and mystic Alfred Schuler. Many of these individuals would later flee or be persecuted by the Nazis.
“I live my life in widening circles that reach out across the world.” – Rainer Maria Rilke
As Schwabing grew, its appearance reflected innovations in thinking, too. Architectural and decorative elements from the Art Nouveau style – “art should be the foundation of life” – were reinterpreted in a localized way. The result, Jugendstil, is more distinctly geometric and Germanic, a bit more orderly and repetitive with Teutonic references. Examples of Jugendstil can be found today throughout Schwabing: tile details, stucco coatings, curving elements and rooflines, classical geometrics. These elegant buildings are striking visual representations of the transition between the 19th and 20th centuries.
Jugendstil detail on an apartment building in Schwabing – classical reinterpretations and geometrical elements
The romance of Jugendstil architecture off Münchner Freiheit in Schwabing
![Jugendstil details at two Schwabing addresses - Photo Credit: Uwe Barghaan (Own work) [GFDL (https://www.gnu.org/copyleft/fdl.html) or CC BY 3.0 (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0)], via Wikimedia Commons](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/05/M%C3%BCnchen_Jugendstil_x.jpg "Schwabing: Where the 20th Century Took Hold in Europe 5")
Jugendstil details at two Schwabing addresses – Photo Credit: Uwe Barghaan (Own work) [GFDL (https://www.gnu.org/copyleft/fdl.html) or CC BY 3.0 (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0)], via Wikimedia Commons
Early feminist Fanny zu Reventlow, at odds with her aristocratic family, chose an unconventional life as a divorcee and single mother, promoting sexual independence and the abolition of marriage. Through a friend, she became involved with the Munich Cosmic Circle, a group of neo-pagans including mystic visionary Alfred Schuler.
Jugendstil Tile Detail on a Schwabing Building Entry
Along with all the enlightenment and intellectual freedom in Schwabing came elements of darkness. The Munich Cosmic Circle turned from anti-bourgeois thinking to the occult, in an attempt to stem world deterioration into a more “cosmic view” and rebirth derived from pagan origins. One of the symbols they adopted was the swastika. A rift developed in the group in 1908, attributed in part to Schuler’s anti-Semitism. This led some, such as industrialist Robert Boehringer, to believe that the Cosmic Circle and/or Schuler may have influenced Adolf Hitler in one of the many Schwabing salons during the period. Schuler’s gnostic reputation and later outspoken critical rejection of National Socialism might belie this conjecture.
.jpg "Schwabing: Where the 20th Century Took Hold in Europe 7")
Seidlvilla, Nikolaiplatz 1b, Schwabing ca. 1905 German Renaissance style with Jugendstil influences Photo: Christiane Dittrich (Own work) [CC BY-SA 3.0 (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0)], via Wikimedia Commons
Lenin arrived in Munich in 1900, after completing a term of political exile in Siberia. Along with his wife, Nadya Krupskaya, he published an underground newspaper for distribution in Russia and political pamphlets from rented flats on Schleissheimerstrasse (the same street where Hitler lived a decade later), Kaiserstrasse and Siegfriedstrasse. Promoting the concept that a vanguard party of “professional revolutionaries” from the intelligentsia was necessary to effect political change, Lenin penned “What Is To Be Done” in 1902. This document is considered the cornerstone of Bolshevism. It didn’t take long for Lenin and Krupskaya to become persons of interest with the Bavarian police, leading them to relocate in London. Many historians believe they returned to Munich under pseudonyms to carry on their publishing and party organizational work prior to returning to Russia for the revolution.
The Münchner Freiheit, a lovely recessed square at Leopoldstrasse in the heart of Schwabing just west of the Englischer Garden, is where we chose to center our day. Formerly known as Feilitzsch Platz, it is the site of one of Munich’s largest Christmas markets. On the January day we visited, all was rather quiet until a voice with a bullhorn blasted through the quiet. Curious, we walked toward the tables where a small group was distributing literature. “No Nazis in Schwabing” read their hand-lettered sign.
Münchner Freiheit in Schwabing – Photo Credit: Wikipedia
We were so surprised – and heartened – by this we didn’t think to get a photo. It was a graphic reminder that we must continue to take a stand against evil. Later we learned that Münchner Freiheit has a historical basis for Nazi resistance. In 1945, the Freiheitsaktion Bayern (literally Freedom Action Bavaria) broadcast anti-Nazi propaganda from two radio towers in Munich. The square was renamed to honor them.
Strolling side streets, we noted a variety of bars and restaurants from which to choose. Friendly residents were out enjoying the wintry sun, pushing prams, walking dogs, greeting their neighbors – and us – with cheerful smiles.
Companions out for a stroll in Schwabing
A sweet baby Beagle comes out in the winter sun in Schwabing
Comfy sheepskins and warm red blankets to ward off winter’s chill at a sidewalk cafe on Leopoldstrasse
We ambled away the waning hours of the afternoon along Leopoldstrasse. At sunset, we ducked into a building dating from 1865, home to a sausage and pretzel tavern. The pub atmosphere was warm and cozy, the food and drink filling. It felt good to take the chill off, chat with adjacent diners, and return to the 21st century.
Tips and Information:
Photo Credit: https://www.zurbrezn.de
Schwabing’s Münchner Freiheit is three UBahn stops up from Marienplatz (Munich City Center) on the Blue (U6 Garching-Forschungszentrum) line. If coming from the main Hauptbahnhof train station, take the Aqua (U4 Arabella Park line), change to Blue at Odeonsplatz. Tram lines 27 and 28 run north-south through Schwabing.
There are a variety of chic bars and trendy restaurants along Leopoldstrasse, which is the main thoroughfare dividing the borough into east and west districts. A Schwabing Eat the World Tour introduces the neighborhood’s unique history, art and Bavarian cuisine. MunichFound offers a self-guided walking architectural tour of Schwabing’s turn of the century Art Nouveau buildings.
Wirtshaus zur Brez’n is located at Leopoldstrasse 72, 80802 Munich, open from 10am – 1am Sun-Wed, 10am – 3am Thurs-Sat. Telephone: 089/39 00 92 Oversized fresh baked pretzels are served stacked on a spindle, hearty tavern fare with pork roast and other Bavarian specialties.
Photo Credit: https://www.zurbrezn.de
For additional information, blog posts and tips about Munich, visit this excellent resource from Nomadic Notes: Munich Travel Guide. For more on Kandinsky, visit Artsy: Wassily Kandinsky.
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Thanks for the educational post, it’s always good to read more about the history behind where I’m planning to travel to. Great detail! 🙂
Hi Laurie – I’ll admit to being clueless about this history before we visited. Now that we know, we’ll enjoy returning all the more. Thanks.
Great history there and sounds like a great day in Schwabing. Sign me up for one of those fresh baked pretzels!
Hi Sonja – Nothing like an authentic Bavarian pretzel with a bit of tangy mustard to go along with your beer!
I haven’t been to Munich yet, but Schwabing just made my list. You’re photos are great. I love the art nouveau period.
Hi Mags – Thank you so much. We love this architectural style, too.
This is a fantastic mix of culture, history and travel, a truly enjoyable read.
Hi Ana – Thank you so much. Glad you enjoyed it.
Hi Betsy! Munich is probably my favorite city in Germany. It’s beautiful, clean, and the people were always smiling. I’ve been there twice and each time I saw something new. The third time I’ll have to stop by Schwabing! 🙂
Hi Vicky – We love Munich, too. We’d like to spend more time in Schwabing on our next visit, too. 🙂
I really dig the red blankets and sheepskin to keep you warm! I’ve been to Munich before but didn’t get the change to see this artistic side!
Hi Alli – Isn’t that setup inviting? I love how the Europeans enjoy time outdoors in every season.
I’ve never been to Germany before, but planning to in the near future! I’m glad I got to read this post! I’m going to pin in so I can make sure to visit!
Hi Francesca – Please let me know if you need any additional recommendations. We hope to get back to Germany soon ourselves. 🙂
What an interesting place with such a rich history. I know that I love Munich so I can see that Schwabing would also be something that we would find very appealing. Architecture, food and culture – it all works. Thanks for making us aware of this. Great find.
Hi Paula – We really love Munich, too, and we were glad to get to know it a bit better outside of the central district. Thanks!
Wow, what an interesting place! I really enjoyed the photos of the architecture. Next time I visit Munich, I’ll make sure to visit. Thanks for sharing!
Hi Bianca – Yes, we’d read that the architecture was very impressive and we weren’t disappointed. We’d love to visit again and discover more buildings. Thank you.
What an interesting history. D has a history degree and just loves to dig into the past of places we visit.
Hi Lyn – I think there is no better context when you’re visiting a new place.
Love all the history we were from reading your posts. Schwabing is the neighbourhood we stayed in when we were in Munich!
Hi Nat – Although we didn’t stay in Schwabing on this visit, we’d definitely consider it for the next. 🙂
I hadn’t heard of Schwabing and the Jugendstil style of architecture – looks fantastic! Thanks for such an interesting read
Hi Suze – Glad you enjoyed it. 🙂
Hi Betsy,
You’ve delved deep my friend! Thanks for all the wonderful details and history for this flash-point of a city. Sounds like a heady time to be alive — in the early 20th Century.
Your photos also reflect the scrolly, frilly, light and airy flair in art and architecture, something that surprised me on my first visit there. Germans have a nice balance of yin/yang in all they do! I can relate to that, can’t you?
Wishing you safe and happy journeys,
Josie
Hi Josie – Yes, in this region and the rest of Central Europe pre-World War I was where it was at!
Since I married a German, Germany is like a second home for me, but I’ve only been to Munich once, long before I met him. I’m always grateful for the research you put into these posts so I get to learn all about the history of the place you are visiting. Makes it attractive to maybe drag my husband a bit further south next time we visit his homeland!
Hi Yasha – And our experience is the reverse! We need to get to northern locations on our next visit. 🙂
I always enjoy your posts – they’re very well written and I learn something I didn’t know! I liked the Jugendstil architecture which I’d never even heard of before. Schwabing looks as if it’s well worth a visit.
Hi Kay – I think you’d love the neighborhood. It’s very trendy right now, so there’s plenty to do and great places to stay.
Schwabing looks like a delightful neighborhood – I could spend some time there. When I travel I love to take time out from visiting specific museums or sites, and just wander around some of the neighborhoods to really get a feel for the place, especially the neighborhoods away from the tourist sites.
Hi Susan – I think wandering is one of the best things we can do, and we’re fortunate when we schedule in the time to do so.
Betsy I have never been to Munich but when the time comes your informative post on Schwabing will be most helpful. Fantastic photos!
Hi Sue – So glad we could help out! It’s a great neighborhood to visit. Thanks.
Another excellent articles with great photos! Schwabing is just three stops from Munich City centre and we will be there next Year!!! We will be sure to visit. Thanks for the info about the architecture…always a favorite for us.
Hi Carol – Make sure you head over to Schwabing. You’ll love it.
I love the architecture! The food and walking tours you mention sound like a great way to get to know the area quickly. I haven’t been to Munich yet, but one of these days!
Hi Nancie – I really love the architecture, too. It hints of art deco to come, doesn’t it? Hope you get to visit.
Getting away from the tourist center in a city and mingling with the natives is always interesting. I will make an effort to get to Schwabing, too, next time I’m in Munich.
Hi Carole – I think you’d enjoy it very much.
So much history to absorb throughout Europe! Love how they put the blankets out at the cafes and OMG, that is the cutest beagle ever.
Hi Gypsynesters – Yep, plenty of atmosphere to soak up in this neighborhood. 🙂
Schwabing looks like a super interesting area to explore. I think your husband had the right idea to keep a day unscripted so you could take the time to experience the neighbourhood at your pace. I’d enjoy a day in this part of Munich.
Hi Leigh – Yes, I agree the plan should allow for time and space to really breathe in any location we visit. 🙂
I always find more about the place I want to go before go there. This is a good post with useful information I need and let me create a good plan to travel.
Thank you for it.
Hi Tim – Thanks for letting us know you found it helpful. 🙂
I didn’t know any of this! Great info and photos.
Hi Christine – Glad we could introduce you.
I have been to Germany many times but you wrote about some aspects of history that I never heard of before. Always great to read posts like this and appreciate your insights and the education and the reminders.
Hi Tim – Glad we could provide additional dimension to your experiences. Thanks!
Now that we’ve been to “regular” Munich twice, we definitely have room for Schwabing the next time. Was it bombed to smithereens like the rest of the city during WW II and then reconstructed or did it manage to survive relatively unscathed? (I agree with Veronica (Mrs. Gypsy Nester). The baby beagle is the cutest and your choosing to share his photo was very appropriate. Yesterday was International Puppy Day!)
Hi Suzanne – I’m not sure about the extent of bombing damage in Schwabing during WWII. Everything is pristine now, as you might imagine. Glad we could inspire you to visit on your next trip.
Schwabing looks and sounds like a great neighborhood to visit or stay in Munich. It’s a great idea to explore beyond Europe’s old city centres. I LOVE the photo of the Kandinsky painting.
Hi Shelley – It is a wonderful neighborhood and we’d like to return.
Wow, I learned a lot from this post! Your photos of Jugendstil detail really do a great job of illustrating variety and beauty of the design. Schwabing is on my must-visit list
Hi Michele – Thank you so much. You’ll love it.
Betsy: You always take such great care and do extensive research! I so appreciate it! I love to know all of the details, but don’t necessarily have the patience to dig as deep as you do! This was so comprehensive! On our last trip to Europe we went to Berlin for the first time, a city that is full of rich history. Thank you for the beautiful, well written post!
Hi Suzanne – We can’t wait to visit Berlin. So glad you enjoyed this look into Schwabing.
Honestly, I had never heard of this area! But it sounds right up my alley- chic and trendy spots to eat, art, elegant buildings, a healthy history… This sounds like the perfect spot to have a ‘blank slate’ day. 🙂
Hi Casey – We thought so! Hope you get a chance to visit. 🙂
Thanks for all the historical detail and great photos…I have morning coffee every day in a mug from the Schwabing Christmas market, and it was great to time-travel with you back to one of my favorite neighborhoods in Munich. Your post provides a lovely escort to fascinating district of this great city!
Hi Anita – So glad we could rekindle the memories, and how lovely you have a piece of the neighborhood with you. 🙂
Wow what an interesting read. I have never been to Munich…well other than the airport…but it was my fathers favorite European city.
Hi Sarah – Hope you get to visit someday! 🙂
Wonderful essay about Schwabing. I’ll have to be sure to visit next time we’re exploring Munich.
Hi Sue – Plenty of places to prime the palate in Schwabing for sure!
I loved the history lesson behind this fascinating area. Wouldn’t you have loved to walk these ancient streets at various times through the centuries and eavesdropped on the conversations around you? Such a vibrant and dynamic area that attracted the intellectuals and creatives, famous and infamous, and the many powerful personalities who played such pivotal roles in recent history. Great post, Betsy!
Hi Anita – It’s a wonderful fantasy to walk in their footsteps and imagine yourself in those times. Thanks, Anita.
Betsy, i’ve never been to Germany, but your post is very inspirational!!
Thanks 🙂
Hi Ale – Hope you get to visit soon! Thanks.
I always think having a bit of history under your belt helps you get the most out of a trip, especially to European cities. I loved visiting Paris when I was studying (and obsessed with) the French Revolution at school, because I could relate to it. Yet when we visited again last month (and I’d forgotten most of what I used to know) I really didn’t enjoy it.
Hi Heather – A historical context is something I definitely need, too. I feel kind of lost without it, and I really enjoy being up to speed on what happened when. 🙂
It’s been many years since I was lasts in Munich. I really didn’t know much about Schwabing until I read your post. Those outdoor café chairs with the sheepskins looked really inviting!
Hi Patti – We couldn’t resist them either! 🙂
Funny to read a stranger’s view on Schwabing. Having lived there for almost a decade it feels less vibrant than you make it feel.
For me Schwabing is constantly chasing behind its lost glory. Sure there are some few houses left from the fin de ciecle – but other than that? What is left?
You got the simplicissimus restaurant – maybe the Schwabing Salon. The Schauburg Theater hasn’t been worth a visit in 2 decades. The Hohenzollernstraße used to be a place to go shopping for high-end fashion, but that all is more than 10 years ago. Now you just find GAP, Zara and other boring international Brands.
The Glockenbachviertel is where tourist should go to experience how Munich really is these days. It might lack the historic significance (yet) – but here is where the creative community lives. The Gärtnerplatz with it’s beautiful operhouse and park certainly feels more attractive than the ugly subway-extension park at Münchner Freiheit 😀
Hi Norman – thanks for your perspective and recommendations.