Sigatoka Sand Dunes National Park is not just an oceanside ecosystem. It’s also the site of major archeological discoveries that link Fiji to East Asia.
The lovely view of the Korotogo lagoon from the house at which we stay in Fiji extends to the Sigatoka Sand Dunes National Park. On a clear day from the top of the hill here, we not only hear the roar of the surf as it breaks along the Coral Coast, but see the breakers crash against the sand in the distance, raising all sorts of spray.
View across the Korotogo Lagoon to the distant Sigatoka Sand Dunes
Sigatoka Sand Dunes and breaking surf in the distance
Sigatoka Sand Dunes National Park was established in the late 1980s as Fiji’s very first national park, and has been proposed as a UNESCO heritage site. Its fragile ecosystem supports a variety of wildlife and flora, including a second growth forest of mahogany trees just inland from the dunes’ ridgeline.
Legend has it that the sand dunes were formed when two spirit gods, Tamaku and Vodovata, came to this area because it was famous for rich clay soil and peaceful people. Tamaku stole some of the valuable clay and put it in a basket. When confronted by Vodovata about his theft, Tamaku dropped his basket of clay into the ocean, forming Vatulele Island (about 25km off the Coral Coast). Tamaku then flew back toward the land and began to throw sandstone rocks which fell along the coastline. The largest of these was crumbled by Vodovata over the coral coast, forming the dunes.
Unlike other places along the Coral Coast where a deep reef insulates the shoreline, the ocean breaks directly on Sigatoka Sand Dunes.
The mouth of the Sigatoka River was attractive to ancient people of the Lapita culture, who had come eastward beginning around 3000 years ago from Southeast Asia and the Philippines to New Guinea and the Bismarck Archipelago. Their migration spread from the South Solomon Islands and Vanuatu to Fiji and New Caledonia, and then beyond to Samoa, Tonga and the Marquesas. The Sigatoka delta provided Lapita artisans with the raw materials to make their intricately designed pottery, as well as fertile soil for growing food and rich marine life.
Archeological excavations beginning in the 1960s have revealed a burial site here which dates from around the 1st century. Containing the remains of more than 70 individuals beneath and around existing coral mounds, this site is the largest of its kind and age in the South Pacific.
On a recent visit to Sigatoka Sand Dunes, we walked the shorter of two loop trails beginning from the Visitors Center on Queens Highway.
The trails at Sigatoka Sand Dunes begin in the forest
Cheerful reminders about personal safety were posted at various locations.
A nice way to say what’s what!
The trail descended over the first ridgeline to the dune area beyond. The dunes, which range from 20 to 60 meters high, are creeping inland at the rate of about 3 meters per year.
You can just barely see Pete and the park ranger ahead of him on the slope to shore
The shorter loop veers westward along the shore to an activities area. There was a stark vibe as we moved among the driftwood tipis and gathering circle constructed by children’s groups. The Park has a considerable number of programs designed for schools and special interest groups. It was easy to imagine similar structures sheltering new arrivals to this place eons ago.
The coastal path to the tipis and gathering circle
A ghostly village in the sand and spray
Sand was already claiming these constructs
Pete thought it might be fun to camp overnight in one of these tipis. I disagreed. I felt a sad sort of presence here. UPDATE: October 12, 2015. On our flight out of Fiji today, the airline magazine referenced an additional myth. There is a small valley in the dunes which Fijians refer to as “Nadrio” (“darkness”). Their belief is that this valley is a portal or gateway to the underworld. Their legend says that Degei, the snake god, became angry and sent a huge wave which buried a village in the sand. The neighboring villagers in Kulukulu believe that the spirits of these dead can be heard within the dunes.
A lonely tree stands sentinel against the sea and sand
The short loop trail turns back inland at this location
The trail turns inland here, and there is a clear demarcation where visitors aren’t allowed. The sand was undisturbed and looked like it must have centuries before.
Undisturbed as it might have looked long ago
The path leads into a second-growth mahogany forest planted in the 1960s. Along the way there are places to rest and reflect.
A peaceful place to rest out of the sun
Along the forest path we encountered ghostly little tree huggers the children had built. We thought these whimsical apparitions made a perfect artistic statement as to the importance of nature to the people, as well as mahogany to the Fijian economy.
Are these the ghosts of tree huggers past along the woodland path?
Walking this route had me thinking of home. I spent my childhood summers playing at the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Monument, which has its own native legend, and other dunes along the shores of Lake Michigan. As well, the satisfying crunch our footsteps made on the leaf-strewn path had us thinking of other autumns in the American Midwest.
Our walk on the short loop took us about twice as long as the hour which is typically estimated. We ambled slowly, taking our time. While there were other visitors to the park, we seemingly had it to ourselves, encountering only the one ranger away from the Visitor Center. That’s about as perfect an experience you might hope to get.
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Tips and Practicalities:
The entrance to Sigatoka Sand Dunes National Park, which is managed by the National Trust of Fiji, is located on the Queens Highway ten minutes west of Sigatoka (about 90 minutes from the international airport in Nadi). Two trails, the short loop (about one hour) and the long loop (about two hours), lead visitors through a variety of ecosystems. Some elevations are steep. Open daily 8am – 5pm. Admission is $10FJD per adult. Bottled water, other beverages and ice cream available for purchase at the Visitors Center.
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I got an eerie feeling from the tipis, just from the photos so I think that there is obviously a lot of the past still bound here. That would be a very different walk through the Sigatoka Sand Dunes National Park. When we visit Fiji next, we will have to do one of the loops.
Hi Paula – Interestingly enough, I updated this post to include a reference to another Fijian myth and belief that this is the site of a portal to the underworld. So, yes, it could be this energy.
Fascinating post! Fiji is on my list of places to get to one of these days. My husband is an archaeologist, so I think he would enjoy seeing this quite a bit.
Hi Ellen – I have no doubt he’d be fascinated, and you would enjoy this, too.
Have there been any updates on whether or not the Sand Dunes have made the UNESCO list yet?
Hi Ashlee – Still pending as far as I know.
great! I have been to Japan, but have missed that! Definitely not to miss when I come back!
Hi Yulia – I’m afraid this is thousands of miles south of Japan across the equator in the South Pacific.
Those two kids tied to the trees… it gives me the creeps. I usually enjoy camping and all that and this is a good place to explore but also a bit “spooky?”
Hi Karla – I think it is a bit spooky, particularly now that I’m aware of the additional legend and belief. But we interpreted the kids as hugging the trees, so we were enchanted by them. Maybe, maybe not?
I would have totally camped there! Just maybe not alone…. 😉
Hi Amélie – You’re braver than I am!! 🙂
So interesting to read about the ancient people that migrated here. Did you learn anything about the estimated age of those tipis or the tree huggers? I was fascinated by seeing such a beautiful beach and landscape mixed with the mysterious past of the people who were once there.
Hi Jackie – The tipis and the tree huggers are all fairly new, constructed with the children’s programs at the park. But they do give off a mysterious vibe, don’t they?
Very interesting. The way people use Folktales are so amazing. In this instance how the two spirit gods, Tamaku and Vodovata created the Sigatoka Sand Dunes.
Hi Travelwith2ofus – Yes, and the additional legend explains a lot of what I felt during the walk, too, but couldn’t attach a reason to.
I would never have known by the pictures that his was Fiji. I’ll have to say that they must only use the beautiful oceanfront pictures for their marketing because I would have figured everything to look so pristine and not quite so rustic. Nice post, great details.
Hi Melody – Fiji has a lot of facets that we love, the pristine paradise is just one. It’s a fascinating cultural and environmental mix.
Sounds great! We just moved to Australia so hopefully we’ll have the chance to visit Fiji super soon. I just started up a new board on my Pinterest account too specifically for national parks of the world, so consider the post pinned 🙂
Hi Meg – You’re very, very close now. Aussies go to Fiji like Americans visit Hawaii or the Caribbean. Thanks so much for the Pinterest love. 🙂
Wow.. this is NOT how I imagined Fiji would look.. it’s not even how imagine sand dunes look either.. considering the ones in my home state of Arizona are vastly different. What a unique and interesting place.. it’s easy to see why it’s been proposed for UNESCO!
Hi James – Yes, Fiji has a lot of diversity in terms of ecology and even climate. On Viti Levu, the largest island, there is rainforest and desert-y climate, mahogany forests, mountains, coral reefs and even fjord-like bodies of water.
As luck would have it, the second time=share membership we just acquired has a resort in Fiji so we will be sure to go there…maybe in 2016! I had often wondered what Fiji’s mystique is. This is definitely part of it. We had been to the Indiana Dunes National Lakeshoreon 15 miles of Lake Michigan and to the Jockey’s Ridge Sand Dunes State Park in the Outer Banks but, from your stories, the vibes of these sand dunes are quite different! Interested to read your other Fiji posts!
Hi Carol – I love the Indiana Dunes; they’re very close to where I was raised in West Michigan. The vibe here is quite similar, but there was an undercurrent which I sensed and then it was later confirmed by the reference to the second legend. Our other Fiji posts can be found here: https://passingthru.com/category/travel/oceania/
Beautiful! Your photos make me want to go to Fiji. When I was young it was on the top of my list. Must push it back up there! The tipis made my hair stand up on the back of my neck. I wasn’t surprised to read the second legend. I love those tree huggers.
Hi Nancie – Glad I wasn’t the only one who had a hair-raising reaction. Hope you visit Fiji soon! We love it so.
I only ever think of Fiji in terms of beaches and slightly tired resorts. It’s nice to see that there are interesting places to visit as well.
Hi Lyn – We love Fiji and will be returning in February. Perhaps we’ll take the longer loop at that time, as we found Sigatoka Sand Dunes really enjoyable.
It’s hard to imagine the scale of the dunes…until that photo of Pete but everything in perspective~
Hi Irene – It is so hard to gain a perspective of their size from a photo. I was glad to have some humans in that shot for reference.
Hi Betsy,
So glad you and Pete have the opportunity to “live” in Fiji for your house sitting assignments. Tough job . . .
Yeah, I’m not sure about those little tree huggers — are they creepy or sweet? I could go either way! Nevertheless, a good look at the dunes and overall island feel. Thanks!
~Josie
Hi Josie – Yep, somebody’s gotta do it. 😉
As a tree-hugger I love the basketry weavings of children appreciating how wonderful trees are!
And I also enjoyed the myths – I’m sure the wind blowing through the dunes would sound eerily like lost souls –
A bit like our Curlews (a nocturnal bird) here in Australia who make a wailing sound the Aboriginals say is the spirits of lost children.
Hi Linda – Interesting about the curlews. And yes, I loved the tree-hugger children, too. It appeared as though they were simultaneously holding the trees up and embracing them.
Fascinating post incorporating the ancient legends which I love with the present.
Hi Nancy – Yes, we enjoy learning about the legends, too. Thanks.
Sigatoka sand dunes sounds like a very mystical place…those structures on the beach are quite eerie, made even more so by the twig children hugging the trees. It looks like the setting for a futuristic apocalyptic movie and I’m happy to hear it is being preserved in its natural state.
Hi Michele – Yes, there is definitely an eerie undercurrent there. Not overwhelming, but gives an edge to the visit for sure.
As a diver I haven’t spent enough time on land during my two trips to Fiji. This looks wonderful and I so love the tree-huggers. The spirit is strong there!
Hi Elaine – Yes, very true about the strong spirit!
Wow, very cool! Yet another reason we need to go to Fiji.
Hi GypsyNesters – Indeed. We highly recommend Fiji. 🙂
This looks amazing. I’ve been thinking about Fiji for next year and you’ve whetted my appetite further!
Hi Karen – Oh, you’ll love it! Keep us posted on your plans.
Sigatoka Sand Dunes National Park looks like a fascinating place to visit. I wouldn’t have expected to find something like this is Fiji. (Not having been there, my image is largely shapely by travel brochure beach information.) I enjoyed reading about the legends. The ghostly feel of the tipis comes through in the photos.
Hi Donna – Yes, it really was quite unexpected, even though we’d looked at the dunes in the distance every day. 🙂
I’m sure I drove past this park when I was in Fiji, but I didn’t get to visit it. Next time. But I did get to visit, and had a divine time, at Bouma National Heritage Park on Taveuni Island.
Hi Carole – Perhaps we’ll be able to check that out when we return to Fiji in February.
Fiji’s Sand Dunes national park might even be more impressive than Nebraska’s sand hills, which we skirted recently, ya think? Now you have me reevaluating our itinerary to Asia in 2016.
Hi Kristin – We loved visiting the sand hills region in Nebraska for the crane migration. I felt like this was more comparable to Sleeping Bear or Ludington in West Michigan, if only because of the water.
Wow Sigatoka Sand Dunes looks like a beautiful and spooky spot, Just in time for a Halloween sunset walk 😉
Hi Nathalie – Yes! Although Halloween isn’t celebrated in Fiji the way we celebrate it, perhaps the spirits would come out to play anyway. 😉
Fiji has long been on a list of places I’ve wanted to travel to. You really share a lot of fascinating facts that I simply didn’t know about. I’m with you on the tipis. I’d love to see them but sleeping on that dune would not be high on my to-do list.
Hi Sue – Fiji is an amazing, diverse experience, but no, no overnights in the tipis. 🙂
I think there is something hard wired in human beings, a need to have some idea of where we came from. Every culture has a myth of creation, usually somehow tied to their physical location and landscape. I wonder if there are any linguistic similarities between the languages of the Native American tribes in the United States and people from the South Pacific region given the similarity between their dwellings, both in appearance and in name (tipis -tepees (sp?)) ?
What a great looking place Sigatoka Sand Dunes National Park is. I love the ocean and discovering neat places that front on it. The history of this area seems fascinating.
Wow, the Sigatoka Sand Dunes National Park is definitely a different look into Fiji. It’s so great that you are able to spend so much time in one place and find so many extraordinary sites. Fiji is on my tentative visit list for 2016. If it comes to fruition (I’ll be full-time travel writing starting 1/1/16 so finances will be tight… but…. YAY!), I’ll definitely have to go to the park.