Our introduction to England came when friendly little communities welcomed us into West Sussex village life amid the beautiful backdrop of the South Downs.
If you’ve read English literature, you’ve imagined yourself in an English village. Perhaps your mind’s eye places you in Kent along with Pip in Great Expectations, or as a Brontë character in Yorkshire. Maybe you think of Hawkshead or Hampshire, in a Jane Austen or Beatrix Potter kind of way. Whatever your associations, we’re betting West Sussex village life would probably not be the first location that enters your head. It certainly wasn’t ours.
The village of Ashington and several neighboring communities near South Downs National Park gave us our first taste of England. We couldn’t have been welcomed more heartily into a scenic world where legendary history is layered in and around daily living. And now, West Sussex village life is the standard we’ll use in the future when our travels have us returning to Old Brittania.
The island of Britain lies virtually at the end of the world, towards the west and northwest. . . It is ornamented with twenty-eight cities and a number of castles, and well equipped with fortifications – walls, castellated towers, gates and houses, whose sturdily built roofs reared menacingly skyward. – Gildas The ruin of Britain (c540; 19 trans.), History in Quotations – M.J. Cohen and John Major
Arundel chimneys
Ashington, where we came to house sit for two lovely elderly Labrador retrievers, is a quiet little community of about 1000 households. It lies off what used to be a drover’s path between the seaside city of Worthing and the market town of Horsham. The drover’s path is now the A24 carriageway (that’s a highway if you’re a Yank). In many respects, Ashington is typical of West Sussex village life, or village life in general in the United Kingdom. There’s a smallish grocer, several restaurants, an Indian curry takeaway, a pharmacy, a church dating at least from the 13th century, and a pub called the Red Lion, which is the most popular pub name in all of England.
The Red Lion in Ashington
Stereotypically, we wondered how we would suffer pub fare in Britain. Fret no more on what you’ve heard about English food! Ashington Red Lion’s menu isn’t atypical – you can choose from box-baked Camembert or deep-fried Brie, a fisherman’s platter with sloe-gin smoked salmon and shellfish, Italian antipasto boards, smoked chicken liver parfait with brioche and chutney, you get the picture. Walking to the pub served to whet the appetite.
Seen in Ashington on our way to the pub
If there was just drinking to be done, we scuttled along the bridle path adjacent to the church close (a sort of cul-de-sac) around to the Ashington Social Club. Club members had kindly waived the usual £5 membership fee for out-of-towners. This was either due to our relationship with Archie, the yellow Lab for whom we were responsible, or the fact that we’re technically homeless. Archie gets on quite nicely all by himself, it would appear. Ambling into either Pub or Social Club on solitary walkabout, he is sufficiently well-known in the village to snag a ride home when he’s had enough. Dogs are welcome just about everywhere in England and we think that’s swell.
Archie
St Peter’s and St Paul’s Parish Church, Ashington. Dates from the 13th century with additions through the 19th. Down the street from us.
Close by Ashington is Storrington, a slightly larger and definitely busier village at the top end of the South Downs boundary. This area is rich in history, part of a large Anglo-Saxon estate awarded by William the Conqueror to a trusted friend. But long before that, Bronze and Iron Age inhabitants made their home on a hilltop between the two. Chanctonbury Ring, the site of their fort along the Washington ridge was abandoned during the Roman invasion, and later made a temple. In 1588, beacons were sited along the Ring to warn of the coming Spanish Armada. Nowadays, it is said to be haunted.
The Romans therefore informed our country that they could not go on being bothered with such troublesome expeditions. . . Rather, the British should stand alone, get used to arms, fight bravely, and defend with all their powers . . . their life and liberty – Gildas (c.540; 1978 trans), History in Quotations – M.J. Cohen and John Major
Storrington, with the South Downs on the horizon
A gravel close or alley in Storrington
Summer-y scene in a doctor’s garden, Storrington
Workmen’s row doorways in Storrington
Just outside Storrington is Parham House, an estate which is the site of the Sussex Country Fair. This is a weekend long event celebrating country life with exhibits, traditional music, vintage farm displays, shooting sports and working dog challenges.
Further afield within the South Downs proper is Arundel. With its own connection to William the Conqueror, it is dominated by Arundel Castle and St. Mary’s Cathedral. Sitting on a magnificent estate overlooking the River Arun awarded by William to his loyal associate Roger de Montgomery, the castle has been occupied for over 1000 years by the Dukes of Norfolk and their ancestors.
The 19th century tower of Arundel Castle from the street
During the 15th through 17th centuries, Arundel was the seat of the powerful Howard family. Howards sailed and prevailed against the Spanish Armada with Sir Francis Drake, offered up their nieces Catherine and Anne Boleyn to Henry VIII in marriage, and one was even beheaded for plotting to wed Mary Queen of Scots. We were amazed to see the written order of Queen Elizabeth I saving said Howard from disembowelment in favor of more humane treatment – “off with his head!” – rather casually framed and displayed in the Duke’s library. Throughout all this drama, the family successfully kept their Catholic faith intact.
Arundel Castle
Arundel Castle as viewed from its Norman keep. At left is the current day residential wing
St. Mary’s Cathedral, Arundel
It seemed to me that Arundel was even more hustle and bustle than Storrington, although it was hard to judge its size due to the number of visitors for the castle. Some called it a village, but most called it a town. What makes a village a village, and a town a town, I wondered? Well, there’s kind of a definition, but it’s confusing:
In the past, a place was usually a town, not a village, when it had a regular market or fair (a market, but not so often). There are some English villages (for example Kidlington, Oxfordshire) larger than some small towns (e.g. Middleham, North Yorkshire). – Britain Express
Got that? 🙂 So part of West Sussex village life is going to town to get stuff that you can’t get in your village. The closest market town to Ashington is Horsham. Located up the former drover’s road now highway, it’s a quick trip by car or bus. Have a look at what hanging out in Horsham was like for us in this video:
One of the most interesting buildings in Horsham is the former Town Hall. What is a Norman-like mini-castle doing in a West Sussex market town? This used to be the town Market House. The lower portion with arches was an open arcade where vendor stalls would be set up on market day. The upper floor was used for civic purposes. When court was in session the lower arcade would be boarded up.
By 1808, Horsham had let the building fall into disrepair and the court justices wanted it demolished. They waited four years for something to happen, and finally they threatened to leave town for Lewes, which had a nice new building. That made Horsham take notice. Enter the Duke of Norfolk (yep, the guy with the big castle at Arundel). He had bought Horsham, lock stock and barrel, for £91,000. Believing that the “Saxon” castle-like style with turrets symbolized English Liberty because it was contemporary with the Magna Carta, he decided to spend another £8,000 for a new Town Hall. During a subsequent remodel in 1888, the Duke’s castle-like facade was kept.
Former Horsham Town Hall, now home to Bill’s eatery
Sometimes you’ll be standing there looking at a building and someone will come up to you and start talking about a murderer from 70 years ago, like what happened to us in this video:
When you exit Horsham’s museum behind the Old Town Hall you’ll be on one of the prettiest streets in West Sussex, called The Causeway.
Ice cream-colored houses on The Causeway, Horsham
The Causeway leads you to St. Mary’s Church, which is the oldest building in Horsham. Founded in the mid-13th century on the site of a Norman church, St. Mary’s houses the effigy of Thomas, Lord de Braose, dressed in armor befitting his status as a contemporary of King Richard II. Thomas is a descendant of William de Braose, who came to England with William the Conqueror, and was given the lands around Chanctonbury Ring.
The effigy of Thomas, Lord de Braose
What makes a Duke a Duke, or a Squire a Squire, or a Lord a Lord, I wondered? Archie the Labrador’s human siblings had gone to school with one of the Duke of Norfolk’s sons. They related that for a Lord, the kid wasn’t all bad. Wikipedia tells us that a manorial lordship is not a noble title, but rather “a semi-extinct form of landed property.” But a lord could also be called a squire, although originally a squire was the person who carried a knight’s armor. We still don’t know how everyone gets on, except for the Duke of Norfolk. He, we were told, is next in line for the throne after all the Windsors.
St. Mary’s information tells us Thomas was the last person to live at The Manor of Chesworth in Horsham. Chesworth is where Catherine Howard (the wife of Henry VIII) spent her childhood. Chesworth is also where the Duke of Norfolk who wanted to marry Mary Queen of Scots was arrested for treason. After Elizabeth I beheaded him, she took the house, too. See how everything circles around?
Chesworth, south of Horsham. Photo Credit: atrocitytransmission.blogspot.com
All of this would have likely been very well-known to the average English villager back in the day. Nobles and landed gentry were celebrities whose comings and goings were of great interest to the common folk.
Today, West Sussex village life occurs in and around the vestiges of this history with little regard for the novelty we Americans think it has.
Arundel Post Office
Note: We learned that Digger, Archie’s Labrador sibling, crossed the Rainbow Bridge shortly after our stay. Digger was a sweet old gentleman, as only a Labrador can be. We were so privileged to care for Digger and Archie, and are grateful their family had a few more precious weeks with Digger’s company. RIP
Pinnable Images:
Practicalities, Tips and Information:
While public transportation is available throughout West Sussex, at times it can be a bit of a challenge, particularly if you’re going east-west. North-south routes are well-covered by train and bus. There are multiple routes for bus and coach (there is no discernible difference here, just the type of company and/or frequency of stops, from what we could tell). There are a variety of ticketing options, including family day passes which run about £15. We’d suggest you consider renting a car to get around more easily, if possible. Free buses run daily to different destinations, designed primarily for shopping and used primarily by seniors. We were pleased to be the youngest passengers on these!
There are wonderful places to stay throughout West Sussex for every budget. Our recommendations will focus on the great pubs we discovered.
The Red Lion in Ashington, London Road, RH20 3DD. Tel. (+44) 1903 892523. Sophisticated and stylish in a 16th century setting, yet still friendly and welcoming. Full restaurant and fixed price menus, 3-course Sunday roast, cocktail and wine specials. Dog friendly.
Photo Credit: The Red Lion, Ashington
The Crown Inn in Storrington (Cootham), Pulborough Rd, RH20 4JN. Tel. (+44) 1903 742625. Countryside setting, multiple rooms. Several hundred years old with the requisite ghost of a little girl who hides beneath the cellar trap door located behind the bar. Darts, pool, cribbage and golf.
The Crown Inn, Storrington
The Moon in Storrington, 13 High St, RH20 4DR. Tel. (+44) 1903 744773. Gastro pub in traditional building with contemporary elements. They’re very particular about their burgers here – obtained in a particular cut from a particular butcher, and it was one of the best we’ve had in a long time. Sunday carvery and take-away pizza round out the offerings.
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- The Moon
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- Burger at The Moon
The Bear in Horsham, 17 Market Square, RH12 1EU. Tel. (+44) 1403 260700. Traditional pub which used to be twice its size until a former bar owner lost half in a card game, or so they said. Friendly local atmosphere and sweet little courtyard garden seating. Hearty pub food, ales and a large stash of prosecco to guard against the shortage.
View of Old Town Hall square from The Bear
St. Mary’s Gate Inn in Arundel, London Road, BN18 9BA. Tel. (+44) 1903 883145. Classic pub in 16th century former farm building adjacent to St. Mary’s Cathedral. Open log fires, two rooms to let which housed Oliver Cromwell and his guards in the mid-1600s. Requisite ghost story of a guardsman haunting the premises. Dog friendly.
Photo Credit: St. Mary’s Gate Inn.
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Okay, this post is so cute (I mean that in a most sincere way), so picture-perfect that it almost hurt to read it. I love this village you’ve introduced us to and it does look like one of my literary fantasies come to life! You’ve captured its charm in your photos. . .
Hi Jackie – Yes, these villages and towns tipped the charm scale right over. We could easily have stayed much longer. Glad you liked. 🙂
Hi Betsy,
I’ve really enjoyed this post and the one about La Bomba Tapas and Barcelona anarchists (especially that one since it was such a surprise: starting as a standard, but good, food post and veering off into politics and history). I discovered your blog through TBS, and look forward to reading about your continuing travels.
Lisa
Hi Lisa – Thank you so much! I’d like to eat a La Bomba right now! 😉
The photos show an atmosphere and charm which I have never experienced. But, it still makes me feel warm just seeing the streets and the stone buildings. I don’t know it just seems really cool and I need to go one day lol.
Hi Elliott – It really has so much going for it. I’m sure you’d love it.
Ah this took me right back – I went to Sussex University (the campus is just outside Brighton in the grounds of a stately home in Falmer) and I did a course on English Rural Communities, which focussed on these villages.
And, I’ve just come back from East Sussex which is equally picturesque and is 1066 country so has it’s own fascinating heritage.
Hi Fiona – What a wonderful university experience you must have had! You’re right, the heritage is really interesting in this region. Glad we could bring up good memories for you!
British villages are just so adorable! My family rented a house in rural England when I was 10 and it was incredible.
Hi Bethany – We’d love to return and stay longer. What a terrific thing for your family to do, and a great memory for you!
Thank you for this post. I’ve never been to England so everything I know about traveling there is from other blogs. The things is that bloggers mostly write about London or day trips from London. I’ve never read anything on West Sussex. Now I know how pretty and picture perfect it is. Thanks for sharing.
Hi zof – Yes, you’re right. This is a less written-about destination for travelers, and it’s so deserving.
You’re right that it’s definitely not the first, or second, place I’d think of but it is so beautiful. The variety in the architecture makes for great photos and some interesting spots to check out too if we do ever make it there.
Hi Toni – I think you’d really love it. The villages and towns are so lovely in their individual ways. And it’s convenient to get to from London – Gatwick in particular is very close.
It looks like you had an amazing time, we were in Sussex recently but nearer to Ashdown Forest. I would love to visit Arundel and I also really like your photo of the open-topped car
Hi Suze – Yes, that scene with the car was just so SUMMER! LOL if you’d tried to stage it, it couldn’t have been better.
to be honest I’m not a big fan of England but I haven’t experienced a village life there and after reading your post I’m really tempted to book flights there just for that. It all seems like an experience I’d enjoy! Thank you for pointing West Sussex to me!
Hi Kami – We’re pretty partial to village life. I bet you’d really enjoy a visit. Friendly people, beautiful scenery, fascinating history. All good stuff!
Picture perfect, I especially like the photo of the doctor’s garden. And so much history! I can’t believe it has been nearly 30 years since I was in England. I think it’s about time we got there.
Hi Patti – I’d say you’re about due for a repeat visit!
Hi Betsy and Pete – well done .. an excellent post about our part of the world. Lovely photos and this is an area I don’t know that well. I should visit Arundel and some of those villages … one day perhaps!!
Definitely a great tourist/travel post … so glad you had a happy time with the dogs and the area … pity we couldn’t meet – I’m not that far away … about an hour + a little!
Take care and enjoy the rest of your travels – cheers Hilary
Hi Hilary – So glad you liked this post. I didn’t realize you were so close. I am so bad with distances and locations, and I really shouldn’t be. We do plan to return so will definitely keep that in mind! And yes, do get to Arundel. We really enjoyed touring the interior and wished we’d had more time to spend on the grounds and in the gardens.
I’ve been in London since October and I visited the fairly common Oxford, Bath and so on, but I’m yet to visit West Sussex. It looks like a charming area and I must add it to my list!
Hi Valeria – It would be a lovely weekend trip from London, especially when there’s a good show or event on at one of the houses or at Arundel.
We hope to take in England with the little ones one day. This is a heart-warming view of West Essex with coffee table quality photographs. Thank you for taking us there.
Hi Stacey jean – I think you all would just love it. Thank you!
Archie looks like a darling. What a great way to get a feel for village life.
Hi Lyn – He really is a lovable guy. We were so fortunate to have this wonderful opportunity.
England is a beautiful country, Sussex is a great part of it and finally someone is doing it justice! I am glad you are liking it there. If you ever plan to go to Essex, let me know. I used to live in England and I can tell you that some pubs have lovely food. I really like the Sunday roast and I like the easygoing atmosphere there. Especially in smaller places 🙂
Hi Claudia – Yes, it’s just a stunning region. We were very impressed, and everyone was just wonderful.
A post with the atmosphere of English Lit and the intrigues of Masterpiece Theater . It’s impossible to connect the dots on a whirlwind tour through any place, so I’ve enjoyed your doing just that with your extended stays and write-ups. Love it!
Hi Anita – Ha! Yes, at times we did feel like we were dropped into an extended story. It all started to make sense once we figured out the connections.
Unfortunately in my first trip to the UK I only made it to London. Your article just emphasizes how much I missed. On my next visit I have to at least visit Sussex and West Sussex. BTW love you photos.
Hi Travelwith2of us – We only briefly passed through London ourselves coming and going, and would like to spend more time there. Weekdays appear to be far more reasonable than the weekends in the city. Thanks, glad you liked the photos. 🙂
How fortuitous was it that you found this beautiful part of Sussex…and Archie and Digger! To live amongst that history and to have fabulous villages to visit must have been fun. The pubs that you visited looked great too.
Hi Jenny – yes, it was a wonderful experience in every way. 🙂
Lots of very evocative pictures of small English towns (or is it villages?) Being more familiar with British TV than English litterature (I am French, remember!), I could easily imagine a TV show being filmed in those towns. Wait a minute, isn’t that Miss Marple about to enter the Post Office in your photo? 🙂 Thank you for a wonderful posting!
Hi Denis – Exactly! Or the lady today could have been the bride from yesteryear. 😉
Hi Betsy. I’ve never been to West Sussex, but I think it deserves a long look. I love the architecture, and just the overall quaintness. So sorry to hear about Digger going to doggy heaven. I think it had a great life here 🙂 I’d love to sample the menu at the Red Lion.
Hi Nancie – You’re right, West Sussex is very deserving of a stay. You’d probably run into Archie at the Red Lion. 😉
I had to look twice on the map to see where West Sussex is but it surely looks like a place I’d love. from the pub fare at Ashington’s Red Lion to the fantastic Arundel castle it seems like an overlooked travel find.
Hi Michele – I agree, it’s not on everyone’s radar if we’re from “across the Pond.” 🙂
How storybook charming! I am alway enamored with sweet little English villages with rich history, cuteness oozes everywhere! Crazy as it sounds, looks like a movie set!
Hi Suzanne – The village centers and old pubs do look like the movies, or rather, the movies we’ve seen have done a good job. 🙂
After reading about West Sussex and looking at your gorgeous photos, I long to visit England again. Such an enjoyable read!!
Hi Marilyn – We’re missing it, too, and would love to return.
What a charming area. It’s been way too long since I’ve traveled in Great Britain so I may have to get a refresher course on driving on the left and head to West Sussex. I just love those ice cream colored houses and the places covered in ivy – great photos!
Hi Kay – The houses are adorable, aren’t they? I’d love to stay in one. Imagine having a cup of tea in one of the wee rooms!
I’ve never even heard of these beautiful little villages except for their namesakes in the States. For example, Annapolis, MD is in Anne Arundel County.
I have so much admiration for your style of travel that brings you into the life of the places you visit.
Sorry about Digger. That’s sad.
Hi Irene – Yes, just down the road from Ashington is little Washington, too! It all seems strangely familiar because of these links. Thanks. 🙂
The villages and towns of West Sussex look lovely. We stayed at a town called Bradford-on-Avon (towards Bath) a few years ago, and these pictures remind me of that area. I’m a Brit Lit fan and in places like this I like to imagine how people lived back in the day.
Hi Shelley – Bath is very close to this area, yes. We’d love to visit, but were warned by Pete’s barber, who is from there, that it was an entirely different “big city” experience and he much prefers Horsham. 😉
I love that in a quintessential English town that you have an Indian curry takeaway, and did not know that Red Lion was the most popular pub name. It is a great part of travel when you are accepted into a community, albeit the dog gave you the advantage. I think the history of these areas is so unique being as I come from such a young country.
Hi Paula – You’re so right about the aspects of community from a visitor’s perspective. And, like you, we’re fascinated with this lengthier history as our country is young by comparison as well. They don’t seem to be holding the revolution against us. 😉
I’m glad you enjoyed your time in West Sussex – you’ve done a great job in describing its charms. I was interested to see the definition of the difference between a town and a village – I live in a small town that most people call a village, but it does have an ancient market charter so I suppose that’s what makes it a town.
Hi Karen – Yes, the definition makes sense now that I know it; we’re a little more loose with our designations in the U.S. I was so concerned about getting this post “right” so I’m glad you approve. 🙂
You have captured my feelings when I toured the English countryside around Newcastle where my daughter lived for a year. She now lives in London so I will be sure to travel around more of it. The little English garden, the little English pub, etc. Your photos, story, and quotes brought it all back. Can’t wait to go back next year!
Hi Carol – How wonderful you’ll be returning. We can’t wait, either. 🙂
I remember many novels sent on the downs. The towns looks quaint. English food, like food in many places has had a revitalization. The first time I went the only good food was either fish and chips or Indian. They’ve come a long way!
Hi Billie – I’ll have to seek out the novels. It would be fun to read along now that I’m familiar with the setting.
Your house-sit in West Sussex sounds like a delightful experience! We used to be “parents” of an energetic Beagle/terrier cross. Sadly, he’s no longer with us, and it’s impractical to own another dog with our travel schedule. To fill that hole, we’ve sometimes looked after a friend’s pet when we’ve been home. Archie looks like he would make a good companion too!
Hi Janice – We love temporarily grandparenting all our pooches. Archie is really a love – we bonded. 😉
I love the architecture in West Sussex, and Archie looks like a sweet dog – lucky you to have such a darling companion while exploring village life.
Hi Susan – Yes, Archie and Digger were the perfect pair. We’d go back in an instant, even though it sounds like a new puppy is coming!
Hi Betsy and Pete,
Oh yes, THE puppy has arrived! Your article really does do the area justice and your photographs are stunning. This has made even us fall in love with our ‘home’ just a little bit more. We cannot wait (hopefully) to welcome you back, we were so at ease leaving the ‘pooches’ and our home in your care, the Godmother and Godfather of housesitting – heartfelt thanks.
PS: Archie misses you and Buddy cannot wait to meet you. ‘GRAND’ PARENTAL WARNING: he has a little more energy than our dear Digger and Arch:) ……
Hi Ailsa – Thank you so much for commenting. I was hoping our treatment of West Sussex would pass muster with you! So grateful it has. We would be delighted to return anytime and ensure Archie isn’t overtaxed training up Buddy in the right way. 😉
What a wonderful village! You’ve certainly captured the feel and charm. I’d like to grab a good book and snuggle up with Archie. I’ve never been to the English countryside but I will on our next visit.
Hi Sue – You’ll love it! And yes, Archie was my shadow no matter where I went. I loved it.
What a charming tour you’ve given us Betsy. It seems like your house sits keep getting better and better. Do you have a secret for choosing the destinations? Archie and Digger are the icing on the cake!
Hi Alison – We’re “just” a year into the housesitting thing, and so far, we’ve tried to arrange them regionally. It all began with our first sit in Fiji, which was close to Hawaii. We’re returning to that sit again next week. So there’s no real secret, except for logistics. 🙂
I know it well – I grew up there and lived most of my adult life in Shoreham-by-Sea just half an hour away. Lovely write up and photos.
Hi Suzanne – Lucky you! Such a charming region. Glad our effort meets with your approval. 🙂