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Bosnia and Herzegovina Travel Guide for First Timers

By Betsy Wuebker 78 Comments

(Last Updated On: March 15, 2023)

Use our Bosnia and Herzegovina travel guide for first timers for ideas and context. Our trip to Bosnia made it one of our favorite destinations.

So there we were, catching an airless bus out of Dubrovnik. Rumbling toward a place called Neum on a tiny finger of territory 20 kilometers long. This is the spit which gives modern-day Bosnia and Herzegovina its legal access to the Adriatic sea. We didn’t know what to think.

essential guide bosnia and herzegovina scenes from mostar and sarajevo

When they heard we were going to travel to Bosnia and Herzegovina, some people thought we were nuts. (Nothing new there.) Others asked if our Bosnia travel plan really was “safe.”

When we got there, at least one Bosnian wondered why we came at all. Apparently, Bosnia and Herzegovina trips aren’t all that common for Americans. But now that we’ve been, we want to return. This Bosnia and Herzegovina travel blog post will help you understand why.

This article contains affiliate links and/or references to our advertisers. We may receive compensation when you click on or make a purchase using these links.

Bosnia travel to Mostar
Beautiful Mostar

Ten things we couldn’t leave out of our Bosnia and Herzegovina Travel Guide for first timers:

1. Getting in and out might seem a little difficult, but it’s really nothing to worry about.

As it turned out, we had a lot of time to think during our trip to Bosnia and Herzegovina. Getting in and around this part of the former Yugoslavia, and then out, takes a while. If you’re planning to travel to Bosnia, we recommend going by surface, actually.

Note: If you are planning a day trip from Croatia to Bosnia, check out my post Dubrovnik to Bosnia Day Trip: Easy Planning Guide

There’s always something better about an approach at ground level, seeing your destination mirage in the distance, drawing nearer to the moment when outskirts give way to the reality of place. It beats dropping in from the sky to have a look around and then jumping back out.

Be ready for thorough border processing at border crossings. You will be perused and your documents will be scanned a couple of times – coming out of wherever you came from and coming in. If you’re self-driving, be prepared for a much longer line at the checkpoints than if you’re on one of the international buses.

We just bought regular public transport tickets to Mostar at the Dubrovnik station. Online ticketing? Sorry, not available at that time. Mostar to Sarajevo? Same deal, pay in cash at the station in Mostar. Buses are frequent, amenities are hit and miss. Announcements we couldn’t understand were kindly translated by fellow travelers. Yep, they could probably tell by looking at us that we might need a little extra help. We felt rather solicitously cared for, as Americans of a “certain age.”

If you want a cushier experience getting to and seeing Mostar, you might want to sign on for a tour, particularly if you are coming from Croatia. Because this destination is one of the top things to experience from there, you will find a variety of experiences from which to choose:

travel to bosnia and herzegovina: sarajevo
Sarajevo is a city of hills

You may want to look around for alternative transport options if you’re leaving Sarajevo, as we did. An independent van company we saw in a newspaper ad ended up offering a much more comfortable, air-conditioned experience at a fraction of the price on that leg.

We just needed to be willing to accept an indeterminate departure: the van would leave when its passenger quota was filled. No worries.

We checked out of our hotel, the kind young man at the front desk made several phone calls to confirm and reconfirm departure, and ran outside to help us with luggage when the van finally did arrive.

2. There’s a difference between Bosnians and Bosniaks.

Bosniaks are an ethnic group. Bosnians are a nationality. Political affiliations have historically occurred along religious and ethnic lines: Bosnian Muslims, Serb Orthodox Christians, and Croat Catholics.

Travel to Bosnia and Herzegovina: 10 Things We Learned
A Bride and Groom in Sarajevo – one was Turkish and the other Bosnian, hence the two flags at right.

In the 1970s a political elite emerged via diplomatic service and Yugoslavia’s membership in the Non-Aligned Movement. After the death of Josip Broz Tito in 1980 and the demise of the Soviet Union, Yugoslavia’s individual nationalistic groups vied throughout the western Balkans for influence.

In the Bosnian National Assembly, ethnic tensions boiled over in a clash of attitudes favoring independence vs. remaining in the Yugoslav federation. Bosnian Serbs favored the federation, and independence was desired by Bosniaks and Bosnian Croats. This led to the Bosnian war in the early 1990s.

Today, the capital city of Sarajevo is often referred to as the “Jerusalem of Europe.” We found its multi-cultural atmosphere the most unique in all the capitals we have visited. Over the centuries, its status as a religious and political crossroads for conflict has been proven time and time again.

One of the best things to do in upon arrival is take a Sarajevo city tour. One of the Sarajevo walking tours will help you get oriented and plan your stay. Each of your senses will be impacted with the sights, sounds, and aromas of beautiful buildings, thriving outdoor markets, exotic foods and goods, and the regular calls to religious prayer.

3. Bosnia and Herzegovina may require more cash than you anticipated. Here’s why:

After World War II, when Tito and his partisans formed the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia, Bosnia and Herzegovina was one of its six constituents. Up until 1992, Bosnia was prosperous: military defense industry and multi-national corporate presence brought economic strength. An upwardly-mobile Bosnian might have worked at Volkswagen, Coca-Cola, Marlboro, Holiday Inn, or been involved with the 1984 Olympic Winter Games.

Then war devastated the Bosnian economy and destroyed its physical infrastructure. Its GDP essentially collapsed, free falling by 60%. Much of the country’s production has yet to be restored. Unemployment is close to 40%, with no sign of real stimulus affecting political and economic inertia.

Travel to Bosnia and Herzegovina: 10 Things We Learned
Traditional Artistry in Hammered Metal, Mostar

As you might expect with such conditions, there is a great deal of ingenious economic maneuvering. One of those is a free walking tour of Sarajevo. Our guide walked us through Sarajevo and revealed that while he held multiple graduate degrees in political science and diplomatic relations, he couldn’t find a job. Instead, he formed his Sarajevo walking tour company. With about 20 people in his tour that day, we estimated tips-only income might have equated to about $50 per hour. Paid in cash, of course.

We took several cash-only Sarajevo tours having discovered them only with the help of our Sarajevo hotel desk clerk. If you prefer to use a credit card and plan slightly in advance, there are variety of tours out of both Dubrovnik and Sarajevo that you can now book online.

The independent Bosnia and Herzegovina hotels at which we stayed either took only cash or had to be persuaded to accept payment by credit card. Whether this was due to an erratic banking environment or other bookkeeping-related reasons, we couldn’t say.

But it all worked out and we would not hesitate to stay again with our Sarajevo accommodation Hotel Latinski Most. Clean and comfortable, the suggestions and help from the staff are what made our Sarajevo stay superb.

button check availability for hotel latinski most 1

Smaller businesses and restaurants were cash-only operations as well. ATMs are plentiful, and our U.S. debit cards worked just fine.

4. The scale of famous places to visit in Bosnia and distances may be different than you expect. 

In the middle of Neum, our bus made a hard right, zig-zagging up and away toward Mostar. As the crow flies (across Google Maps) it’s not that great a distance between the two, less than 90km. Traffic, road conditions, and struggling uphill were bus-related challenges that led to a journey of more than 3 hours.

Travel to Bosnia and Herzegovina: mountain district by Bjelasnica
A mountain road outside Sarajevo

We could look across the river from our Sarajevo hotel to the place where the Archduke was assassinated. Somehow, we’d expected it to be a big plaza, where the assassins could have hidden in enormous crowds. It wasn’t; it was just a tiny nondescript little street corner with an old bridge next to it.

Bosnia travel Sarajevo Latin Bridge
The Latin Bridge in Sarajevo – where the Archduke was assassinated

The hills from which Serbian forces fired on the streets of Sarajevo in the early 90s seemed all too close; the airport where the UN airlift off-loaded life-saving supplies is only a couple of kilometers from the city center.

traveling to Sarajevo passengers waiting for streetcar
The hills are close in Sarajevo.

The fresh market where 68 people were killed and 200 wounded by an artillery shell, a tipping point which led to NATO air strikes, is no larger than our favorite open-air market on the island of Kauai. Sarajevo’s market was open-air then, too. Now it has a protective roof and business goes on with the memories.

Travel to Bosnia and Herzegovina: 10 Things We Learned
Fresh market with Wall of Remembrance
Travel to Bosnia and Herzegovina: 10 Things We Learned
Fresh Market with Wall of Remembrance

5. Is it safe to travel to Bosnia (2023)? Yes, the Bosnian war has been over for decades. That said, evidence of war is easy to see. 

Now might be just the best time to visit Bosnia and Herzegovina. The war has been over for decades and the energy in the country is positive. Your Bosnia travel itinerary can be more free and flexible than ever.

Background: Between 1990 and 1992, sovereignty was declared by various entities in the region and boycotted by others. An independence referendum was held with 63% turnout and 99.7% in favor; Serb nationalists didn’t vote at all. As admittance into the United Nations became pending in 1992, tensions escalated.

Neum, the little coastal town in which our bus turned inland, took artillery fire from Serb positions in March that year. A month later, a Serb attack on Sarajevo’s peace rally is the moment that is generally agreed catalyzed open warfare between the three major ethnic communities.

Bosniak civilians were targeted in all major cities, captured and displaced by Bosnian Serb forces and sympathizers. Both Serbian and Croatian interests sought to expand their respective borders. When government-sanctioned warfare began in 1993, non-Serbs suffered civil rights violations and ethnic cleansing, such as occurred in the Srebrenica massacre. The town of Srebrenica is located in what is now known as Republika Srpska, sister entity to the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina.

This genocide elicited a response from the United States and the international community in the form of a NATO bombing campaign while Croat and Bosnian allies pushed back against the Serbs. In 1995, by agreement between representatives of Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia and Serbia, the fighting stopped, with NATO peacekeeping forces deployed and eventually peace talks restoring a fairly civil society.

Travel to Bosnia and Herzegovina: 10 Things We Learned
Poignant Plea on a Sarajevo Building – note the shrapnel and mortar evidence on the gray building next to it

As we awaited dinner on our first night in Mostar (which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site), we picked up a coffee table-sized photography book at an adjacent restaurant table. Its images were taken during and right after the war.

The city was leveled, the beautiful Stari Most spanning the Neretva River, and the main mosque below it destroyed. The book itself was tattered, with a vintage aspect. We had to keep reminding ourselves that these events were younger than our children, whose childhoods seem like yesterday. 

Mostar Stari Most
Beautiful Stari Most bridge has been rebuilt

We sought the perspective of our two young Bosnia guides in Sarajevo, and asked is Bosnia and Herzegovina safe to visit.

The first had spent the war years, which began when he was seven years old, attending a makeshift school in the basement of his apartment building. His teachers risked their lives to get to their students. His mother walked several kilometers to work, always in high heels: she “wanted to look good if today were to be her last.”

The second had spent childhood in Vienna with relatives who took his family in when the war broke out. No one ever expected things to endure over four years.

Both young men felt it was necessary to move on from the past; both acknowledged that personal losses might prove this impossible for others. They were both glad to see more Europeans taking Bosnia and Herzegovina vacations.

While this may be the best time to travel to Bosnia in over two decades, they accepted that political opinions vary in opposite directions depending upon whom you ask. These assessments were equal parts logic and forgiveness; we were humbled and impressed.

Sarajevo Bijela Tabijla
Sarajevo’s Historic White Fortress: By Julian Nitzsche (Own work) [CC BY-SA 3.0 (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0)], via Wikimedia Commons

If you’re traveling to Bosnia, you may want to take a more meaningful deep dive into the war years with a guided tour which will take you to specific, prominent sites in Sarajevo. The perspective offered by your Bosnia tour guides who were personally impacted by the war will be sobering. As well, you will gain a better understanding of the issues which affect the country today.

The Sarajevo: Times of Misfortune bus tour begins with a panoramic view of the city from the White Fortress which sets the stage with background information as you go on to visit various places that figured prominently during the four-year  siege. Click here for more information and booking.
You might find the Sarajevo: Balkans Dark Side and War Tour more geared to your particular interests and an increased understanding. This 5 out of 5 star reviewed tour takes a somewhat different approach with Skip the Line access to the Tunnel War Museum and Vidikovac viewing points. Click here for more information and booking.

Is Bosnia and Herzegovina safe for tourists who venture off the beaten path? “Official” sources warn that visiting Bosnia can be dangerous due to unexploded land mines and other residual ordnance. No doubt this is true. Certain areas are marked off-limits with forbidding signage. We encountered none.

Sarajevo war dead brass plaques
Memorial plaques on a Sarajevo building

The country has had thirty years to make more highly trafficked areas safe for passage. If you stick to paved highways and urban locations when you travel to Bosnia and Herzegovina, you’ll be fine. Even our foray on dirt and forest roads into the mountains above Sarajevo where Olympic ski runs and infrastructure still serve winter sports enthusiasts was without incident or any evidence.

6. Politics in Bosnia and Herzegovina? Things have always been complicated here, and they still are. 

Eastern Europe has long been the place where religions and empires intersected. Clashes and power struggles, boundary fluctuations, and regime changes since the sixth century have permeated the Bosnian identity and landscape. We were amazed how little our history classes had covered Balkan wars and significant events dating back to medieval times which had occurred in this region. As well, the influences of different religious sects and ideology – from pagan to modern Christianity and Islam – have left their mark.

Bosnia has had human inhabitants since Neolithic times. In the early Middle Ages, slavic tribes formed a confederation in this region during the first Migration Period in the 6th and 7th centuries. Roman Emperor Constantine designated Bosnia as an administrative area in the 10th century. Two hundred years later, it was formally established as a politically autonomous state within the Hungarian Crown. What followed until approximately 1391 was a series of power struggles between two prominent clans, with skirmishes and territory annexations. Following a 70 year decline, it was then annexed by the Ottoman Empire in 1463.

tesanj
The medieval fortress at Tesanj

The Middle Ages are a fascinating period in this region. Thriving villages were protected by walled fortresses and natural geography. Tribal chieftains, Byzantine rulers, and Christian kings built imposing residences and added territory. Visit the medieval fortress at Tesanj, to which Bosnians refer as “the pearl of Bosnian tourism,” and the village of Vranduk and its citadel, which date to the 14th century, on the Age of Kings Tour from Sarajevo. Click here to book a day tour to Tesanj and Vranduk from Sarajevo.

Bosniaks vranduk
Painting by Carl Ebert (1821-1885) of 18th century Bosniaks, at the Vranduk mountain next to the Bosna river. (Public Domain)

For a look at the cultural impact of ancient Muslim mysticism in Herzegovina, you’ll want to visit Blagaj. Older than Mostar, Blagaj has a Dervish monastery built around 1520, at the height of the Ottoman Empire, in a combination of Ottoman and Mediterranean style. The location is the site of an Illyrian fortress; Roman villages surrounding it were built during the Justinian era. Blagaj was an important medieval fortress and political seat during the Ottoman Empire.

Click here to get information and book a private day trip to Blagaj and the Kravice waterfalls from Mostar.

Blagaj Ceilings
Blagaj Tekke (Dervish Monastery). By Talha ?amil Çak?r (Own work) [CC BY-SA 3.0 (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0)], via Wikimedia Commons

Today, there are multiple levels of political structure arising out of the 1990s war’s impact on the country’s ethnic groups. The national government is relatively weak, with decentralized decision-making in layers: geographic districts, cantons, municipalities and “official” cities. One of the main political objectives Bosnia and Herzegovina has at this time is integration within the European Union. Reforms are still in progress ahead of that affiliation.

oversize chess in Sarajevo park
Oversize Chess in a Sarajevo Park

Are practicalities in daily life affected by this complexity? Definitely. Rarely, we were told, does anything get done at satisfactory speed. Sometimes, it was shared, progress is made outside of requirements. Other times, projects are indefinitely halted. We can all relate how “decision by committee” affects outcomes. This is the mire within which attempts to better and modernize the country operate under the BIH authorities.

button check availability for sarajevo hotels

7. You’ll enjoy wonderful Bosnian coffee, but you need to know the 1-2-3 rule.

Bosnian coffee is world famous for good reason. It’s strong, but not muddy as other regional coffees (Turkish coffee, anyone?) can be. As is common in this part of the world, coffee culture includes ritual preparation and ceremonial enjoyment.

Should you be invited in for coffee with a new friend in Bosnia you must understand Bosnia coffee etiquette – the rule of 3: the first coffee is always one of welcome.

The second coffee is brewed and poured as the signal for intimate conversation concerning whatever subject is at hand. It is during the second coffee that you and your host strengthen your bond by understanding (but not necessarily agreeing with) each other.

The third brew and serving? It’s last call. You will enjoy it together, but you also know you’ve been given the nod that once finished, you’ll be on your way.

hammered metal ware in Mostar
Traditional metalwork trays, tea and coffee services, Mostar

8. The local Sarajevo beer is really good. 

Sarajevsko pivo has been brewed since 1864 in Sarajevo. Alert students of history will realize that the company was founded long before the decline of the Ottoman Empire’s hold over Bosnia. This disputes the notion that Islamic tradition and alcoholic beverages cannot co-exist.

Brewed with spring water from a source in the courtyard of the current building (which dates from 1893), this Sarajevo beer is a plucky little thirst quencher. We both liked it.

During the Siege of Sarajevo, citizens risked their lives under sniper fire to draw water from the brewery’s spring.

Sarajevo beer at the brewery in Sarajevo
Tasty Local Sarajevo Beer

9. A trip to Bosnia and Herzegovina will convince you this is one of the most visually beautiful places in the Balkans region.

The scenery holds its own here, the country’s topography and natural beauty is comprised of a pleasing combination of mountains, hills, turquoise rivers and flatlands. Climate is Mediterranean in the south, while inland in Central Bosnia you’ll get hot summers with cold and snowy winters.

About 50% of Bosnia is forested, with wildlife such as bears, wolves, boar, deer, falcons, and the rare chamois. One of the only two remaining primeval forests in Europe, the Perucica Forest Reserve is located within the oldest of Bosnia and Herzegovina’s national parks, filled with natural resources.

lukomir mountain village
A Mountain Village Undisturbed by War, Lukomir

The famous Kravice waterfalls – known as Bosnia and Herzegovina’s “mini-Niagara” are a great day trip for scenic viewing, photography and swimming.

Click to arrange a private tour to Kravice from Mostar or to arrange a full day tour to Kravice from Sarajevo.

kravice waterfall

Not only is the geography scenic, but so is the evidence of man. Impossibly beautiful vistas with storybook qualities awaited us everywhere. We appreciated a meld of modern vibrancy and timelessness.

cutting hay in the mountains above Sarajevo
Bringing in Cut Hay, Lukomir

We also recognized that hardship meant the old ways might not live much longer. Our visit to Lukomir, the oldest and highest semi-nomadic village in the Dinaric Alps of Bosnia, remains one of the most memorable experiences we have had in all our travels. This is the only such village in Bosnia which was not destroyed by the Serbs in the 1990s war.

You can visit in the summer months from late May to early September, depending upon weather conditions. The village is located at very high altitude above the Bjelasnica Winter Olympics site on one of the numerous ranges near Sarajevo, so plan your attire accordingly. You will interact with locals, have a traditional meal and Bosnian coffee, and hike along the ridge of the Rakitnica Canyon, 800 meters deep.

This was our most memorable experience on our trip to Bosnia and Herzegovina. We highly recommend a tour visit to Lukomir.

Click here for more information and book your visit to Lukomir.

common water supply in mountain village: lukomir
Common Water Supply in a Mountain Village, Lukomir

10. Your dollar goes a very long way and is very welcome. Bosnia and Herzegovina travel is inexpensive by Western standards.

Bosnia and Herzegovina tourism and ecotourism is on the rise. The southern Alpine terrain has wilderness and natural assets which attract skiers, bikers, hikers, whitewater enthusiasts and mountaineers.

travel to bosnia and herzegovina bjelasnica olympic ski slope
Olympic Ski Slopes, Sarajevo

Bosnia and Herzegovina has a rich history because it has been a cultural crossroads through the centuries. This provides a variety of architectural, religious, commercial, and interpersonal perspectives. Your dollar goes farther here than in neighboring Croatia and other Western Mediterranean and EU countries.

mostar enamelware in bazaar
Traditional Artisan Ware in Bazaar, Mostar

We were welcomed with open arms and a generosity of spirit, with high levels of comfort at very affordable rates. This combination made for wonderful experiences in this beautiful country. The value of Bosnia & Herzegovina travel for first timers and repeat visitors alike is highly demonstrable by any measure. Why not consider it?

Pinnable Images:

Travel to Bosnia and Herzegovina for First Timers: 10 Things We Learned

Bosnia and Herzegovina first timers guide
10 things to know bosnia and herzegovina

Travel to Bosnia and Herzegovina for First Timers
bosnia and herzegovina first timers guide

bosnia and herzegovnia essential guide for first timers image of mostar bridge

Tips for Trip Success

Book Your Flight
Find an inexpensive flight by using CheapOAir, a favorite of ours because it regularly returns less expensive flight options from a variety of airlines.

Book Your Hotel or Special Accommodation
We are big fans of Booking.com. We like their review system and photos. If we want to see more reviews and additional booking options, we go to TripAdvisor.

You Need Travel Insurance!
Good travel insurance means having total peace of mind. Travel insurance protects you when your medical insurance often will not and better than what you get from your credit card. It will provide comprehensive coverage should you need medical treatment or return to the United States, compensation for trip interruption, baggage loss, and other situations.

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Filed Under: Travel, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Europe, First Timers Guides Tagged With: Bosnia and Herzegovina, Bosniaks

Comments

  1. Toccara says

    September 12, 2015 at 8:27 am

    We are so close to Bosnia and Herzegovina right now, in Croatia, and we’re bummed that we won’t have time to visit. Next time… Thanks for sharing your experiences. The stories of from your young guides are humbling, yet fascinating- secret schools, mom wanting to look nice in case it was her last day. Wow.

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      September 12, 2015 at 8:52 am

      Hi Toccara – Definitely keep Bosnia and Herzegovina on your list. We are so glad we visited. I really would have liked to have met that mom. His other stories of her made her out to be quite the character.

      Reply
  2. Natalie Deduck says

    September 12, 2015 at 10:32 am

    Thanks for sharing great tips and history.
    Back in 2007 we crossed Croatia by bus, and passed by the Bosnian border. That time we didn’t have the guts to visit the country, like most of people we thought it wasn’t safe. Now, especially after your post, I´m considering to put Bosnia Herzegovina on your travel plans for next year when we go back to Europe.
    All the best,
    Nat

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      September 12, 2015 at 6:48 pm

      Hi Natalie – There are lots of people who evidently still are afraid of coming to Bosnia and Herzegovina, so don’t feel bad. We just don’t think those fears are valid anymore. I hope you consider a visit now. 🙂

      Reply
  3. Andrea Leblang says

    September 12, 2015 at 10:33 am

    I’m currently sitting in Montenegro, and had considered visiting Bosnia and Herzegovina, but thought it would do us good to stay put for a while. You’ve officially changed our mind! Thanks for the fabulous tips in your post (I especially love the coffee 1-2-3 rule!). We are seriously considering making a change to explore firsthand!

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      September 12, 2015 at 6:49 pm

      Hi Andrea – Oh, do keep in touch and let us know your thoughts should you visit. You are very, very close. 🙂

      Reply
  4. Kim-Ling says

    September 12, 2015 at 12:16 pm

    Sadly we missed visiting Bosnia (due to an *ahem* missing passport!). Your post was so insightful about the process of getting in and the interesting things to know! I love that the coffee has social meanings behind it! I guess a 3rd coffee is better than being flatly told to get lost! I’d love to visit Bosnia and Herzegovina one day!

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      September 12, 2015 at 6:51 pm

      Hi Kim-Ling – Oh, do we know what it’s like when important stuff goes missing. I hope you get to Bosnia and Herzegovina next time around.

      Reply
  5. Himanshu says

    September 12, 2015 at 9:05 am

    This place is really a virgin landscape to explore. Nice pics as well.
    Thanks for sharing.

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      September 12, 2015 at 6:47 pm

      Hi Himanshu – You’re right, it is so unspoiled. Lots of raw wilderness, which you don’t usually see in Europe.

      Reply
  6. Anne Klien ( MeAnne) says

    September 12, 2015 at 10:41 am

    Bosnia and Herzegovina has been on my list for awhile now… After reading this the more I want to go hopefully next year

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      September 12, 2015 at 6:50 pm

      Hi Anne – You will love it, I’m sure, as we did.

      Reply
  7. Kay Dougherty says

    September 12, 2015 at 6:03 pm

    I was in many of those places in 1989 – before the war and when it was all still Yugoslavia. The Mostar Bridge was still the original and Sarajevo was intact and associated with the Winter Olympics ; not a war. So many changes. It would be fascinating to return. Another place for the list!

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      September 12, 2015 at 6:53 pm

      Hi Kay – It’s a good and timely reminder how things can change so quickly, and have long term effects. The Olympic venue we visited is still used for downhill skiing, but the amenities have suffered from what appears to be lack of funds to keep things spruced up. Very haunting, as are other parts of the infrastructure which have gone even further into ruin.

      Reply
  8. Karen Warren says

    September 12, 2015 at 6:08 pm

    I’ve only ever spent one day in Bosnia (in Trebinje) and I loved it. It was like travelling back in time and the people were incredibly friendly. I’d love to go back.

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      September 12, 2015 at 6:54 pm

      Hi Karen – We understand the feeling about traveling back in time, definitely. 🙂

      Reply
  9. CathMc says

    September 12, 2015 at 6:14 pm

    It looks amazing Betsy. I especially loved the tip about the coffee. 🙂

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      September 12, 2015 at 6:54 pm

      Hi Cath – Yes, the coffee rule was really amusing, and unforgettable, too.

      Reply
  10. Vinh N says

    September 12, 2015 at 3:42 pm

    I was in Croatia for my studying abroad program. B&H is so near Dubrovnik but I couldn’t go because of visa restriction :(. Maybe next time!

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      September 12, 2015 at 6:51 pm

      Hi Vinh – I would imagine things have opened up a bit now. Hope you’ll consider it. 🙂

      Reply
  11. Henry | @fotoeins says

    September 13, 2015 at 1:27 am

    Betsy, thanks for your post. A friend of mine is from Mostar, and she goes back to Mostar as much as she can. She’s an American living in the US, but she always speaks lovingly of her birth home, and it’s definitely a reason why I’d love to go visit, especially through her and her family’s eyes.

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      September 13, 2015 at 4:40 am

      Hi Henry – Mostar is really a special place. Lovely people, and the beauty is everywhere.

      Reply
  12. noel says

    September 12, 2015 at 7:43 pm

    Your right, it is a stunning country and landscape. Difficult to understand much of the politics, religion and regional conflicts but you did an excellent job sharing much of the history and current situation. I’m glad that bridge was rebuilt,it is such an iconic image of the city.

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      September 13, 2015 at 1:13 am

      Hi Noel – It seemed as though nowadays tolerance might be more prevalent in Bosnian communities than ever. If this is the legacy of the war, it’s a good one.

      Reply
  13. Sand In My Suitcase says

    September 13, 2015 at 7:51 am

    Mostar looks very pretty (at least if your lead photo is any indication). We love Croatia and have visited the country a few times. Perhaps we need to visit Croatia’s neighbors now :-).

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      September 13, 2015 at 9:45 pm

      Hi Janice – We love Croatia, too. And we’d love to spend more time in the region altogether. Bosnia and Herzegovina is tops on that particular wish list. 🙂

      Reply
  14. chrysoula says

    September 13, 2015 at 10:53 am

    Although my country is quiet close I have never thought of visiting before. Your post is very informative and the pictures are beautiful. Thanks for sharing!

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      September 13, 2015 at 9:45 pm

      Hi Chrysoula – Hope you consider a visit, particularly when so close. We’re so glad we did.

      Reply
  15. Orana says

    September 13, 2015 at 6:46 am

    I really enjoyed the 1 2 3 coffee rule! And the olympic slopes look so different in the summer don’t they? I wouldn’t ever thing of traveling to Bosnia and Herzegovina but it looks like the area could benefit from more tourism. Nice article and photos!

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      September 13, 2015 at 9:43 pm

      Hi Orana – Hope we can get you to consider it! Thanks.

      Reply
  16. Travelwith2ofus says

    September 13, 2015 at 1:19 pm

    A really complete post, including a detailed history lesson on Bosnia and Herzegovina. The Stari Most is really beautiful, I am happy they rebuilt it. Overall Bosnia and Herzegovina look very peaceful, well at least from your photos.

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      September 13, 2015 at 9:47 pm

      Hi Travelwith2ofus – Our visit was very peaceful and safe, yes. We hope others will consider visiting, too.

      Reply
  17. Paula McInerney says

    September 14, 2015 at 9:58 am

    I must admit my knowledge of Bosnia and Herzegovina relates to what I learned at school, so not a great depth. I really enjoyed learning more and would love to visit. One thing that stood our for in this article, was how, no matter what the conditions of the country, education was valued and so was pride on oneself. These are important. We will visit Bosnia and Herzegovina when we can. I love the photos, and my favourite is the hay truck. The 1,2,3 rules of coffee – how priceless.

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      September 14, 2015 at 10:25 pm

      Hi Paula – I think you’ve hit the point – humanizing and maintaining that humanity during awful circumstances fosters resilience and compounds courage. This attitude was common among the people we met, and to say we found it admirable would be an understatement.

      Reply
  18. Anita @ No Particular Place To Go says

    September 14, 2015 at 3:43 pm

    The Bosnia – Herzegovina Region is high up on our list of must-see places and your post was fascinating with it’s mix of politics, history and culture as well as some gorgeous photos of the countryside. This is exactly the kind of place where slow travel is perfect as this seems to be a country calling for a total immersion!

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      September 14, 2015 at 10:33 pm

      Hi Anita – I think you’re right about immersion. I want more Bosnia and Herzegovina because it’s so gorgeous, but tinged with such a mix of sadness, tradition, anger, depth, and positivity. These are people for whom life may be or have been hard, but they live hard right back.

      Reply
  19. Michele Peterson says

    September 14, 2015 at 5:01 pm

    What a lovely post! I’m so amazed by the scenery in Bosnia and Herzegovina…it’s shocking to imagine it’s been the scene for so many battles and war tragedies. Those plaques are poignant reminder of those war torn days, which hopefully will never return. My daughter’s in-laws are from Serbia and many people seem to be struggling economically in that region so recovery from the conflict will be a long process. Supporting local businesses as you did will surely help.

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      September 14, 2015 at 10:35 pm

      Hi Michele – We visited Serbia right after B-H. You’re right about the economy. Belgrade seemed more prosperous, but only by a hair. More posts to come from this region from us!

      Reply
  20. Jo says

    September 14, 2015 at 11:58 am

    It looks so beautiful Betsy. We were so near but so far as we spent a week in Dubrovnik but had a different agenda and not enough time. Next time, i’ll definitely make the effort to get there. I didn’t know the 1-2-3 rule about coffee … interesting … but I did know the beer is good!

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      September 14, 2015 at 10:30 pm

      Hi Jo – You’re right, it is unbelievably beautiful. It’s wild, with a mix of familiar and disorientation, then and now, that really resonated with us. We weren’t completely comfortable, but we became so. Hard to explain. Some places you never do get comfortable, but this one gets under your skin.

      Reply
  21. Denis Gagnon says

    September 14, 2015 at 6:59 pm

    Thanks for a very informative article about today’s Bosnia. I’ve always been curious about the place where the Austrian archduke was killed and its relevance to the Great War. I understand it a little bit better now!

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      September 14, 2015 at 10:36 pm

      Hi Denis – Seeing the location in person was enlightening and thought-provoking: we have no idea what impacts may be, and everything has the potential to be connected in some fashion.

      Reply
  22. Anita says

    September 14, 2015 at 8:32 pm

    Loved this post, Betsy. I was with Radio Free Europe during the Balkan conflict, and had colleagues just evacuated from Sarajevo. Your photos evoke the word pictures they painted for us of the life and landscape before the war…even the 1-2-3 rule, which I was introduced to in Munich!

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      September 14, 2015 at 10:37 pm

      Hi Anita – How intense those days must have been for you and your colleagues. It was not that long ago. Glad you enjoyed this post. More to come!

      Reply
  23. The GypsyNesters says

    September 14, 2015 at 11:17 pm

    We have heard great things about Croatia for years, but not much about Bosnia and Herzegovina. Thanks for enlightening us. It is definitely on our list now.

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      September 15, 2015 at 2:34 am

      Hi Veronica – Yes, Croatia is fabulous, just amazing. Bosnia and Herzegovina is, too. It will really get ahold of your heart.

      Reply
  24. Billie Frank says

    September 15, 2015 at 2:19 am

    You are intrepid travelers. What virgin territory Bosnia and Herzegovina is. Sarajevo looks like such a small city- what an impact it had on the world. Great to have detailed tips on traveling to a place that is so off the radar.

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      September 15, 2015 at 2:39 am

      Hi Billie – I think it’s more like we’re disinclined to believe generalities or hype. We learned from visiting Winter Olympics in Sochi. We would love to return to B&H and spend time in more communities. Yes, Sarajevo seems quite small, but with a huge impact, obviously.

      Reply
  25. Suzanne Stavert says

    September 14, 2015 at 10:26 pm

    Loved the post Betsy. I always learn something and look forward to reading your post every week. The coffee 1-2-3 tip is clever and subtle. The landscape is so peaceful and beautiful, we may make it there one day, but until then thank you for the virtual tour and history lesson.

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      September 14, 2015 at 10:40 pm

      Hi Suzanne – You’d love this country for so many reasons. Glad you enjoyed this post, and thank you!

      Reply
  26. budget jan says

    September 15, 2015 at 5:35 am

    Hi, I was glad you went to Sarajevo. We went to Mostar and Trebinje but didn’t have enough time for Sarajevo. I want to go there one day. We drove our hire car and had no trouble at all at the borders – just waived through. Loved your photographs.

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      September 17, 2015 at 10:09 pm

      Hi Jan – We wish we’d been able to spend more time in B-H. I hope you get to return to Sarajevo. Thanks!

      Reply
  27. Irene S. Levine says

    September 15, 2015 at 5:57 am

    Thanks for sharing another one of your epic travel journeys! What beautiful photography and the post is a perfect blend of aspirational travel writing balanced with practical tips.

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      September 17, 2015 at 10:10 pm

      Hi Irene – Thank you so much. This was a very memorable journey and we will be sharing more.

      Reply
  28. Carol Colborn says

    September 15, 2015 at 6:23 am

    You always have such a balanced post on a place, going not just to the places to see but also delving into its history without getting bogged down by details and explaining its current psyche without intense politicizing. We are going to Macedonia, Kosovo, Serbia and Bulgaria in October-November. How I wish we had added B/H!

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      September 17, 2015 at 10:13 pm

      Hi Carol – We will be looking forward to seeing your posts. We also visited Serbia and Bulgaria this trip, and had planned to visit Kosovo but ran out of time. I think it’s important to refresh ourselves on history for cultural context. I’ll be posting more on B-H as well as Serbia and Bulgaria in the next few weeks, so perhaps those observations will be helpful. Thanks!

      Reply
  29. Rachel Heller says

    September 15, 2015 at 6:33 am

    Bosnia and Herzegovina sound fascinating! Croatia has become a tourism magnet from the EU; I never even thought about Bosnia and Herzegovina as an alternative! It seems to me that it would be wise to visit before it joins the EU, because at that point, while travel will be easier, it’ll also become more expensive.

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      September 17, 2015 at 10:15 pm

      Hi Rachel – Croatia is a tourist magnet for big reasons. It’s a spectacular country. I don’t know if I would consider B-H an alternative to Croatia, because I believe it stands on its own and has different aspects to justify a visit. You’re right, should they join the EU, it will be a different experience. Somehow I think it’s going to be a while before that happens, though.

      Reply
  30. Sue Reddel says

    September 15, 2015 at 9:53 pm

    You’ve done a superb job covering these misunderstood destinations. After reading your perspective I would easily add them to an itinerary. I really appreciated the history lesson too.

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      September 17, 2015 at 10:17 pm

      Hi Sue – Thank you so much, and thank you for mentioning this post in your newsletter. We really appreciate it. Stay tuned for additional posts (with a few food photos) about Bosnia and Herzegovina. 🙂

      Reply
  31. Cheryl says

    September 19, 2015 at 1:37 pm

    What a wonderful description of Bosnia and Herzegovina in words and photos! We have always wanted to visit, but somehow get side tracked. Time to get serious! We actually prefer going to places that are somewhat off the beaten path (you know those places you are “warned” about visiting from family and friends). I love the 3-2-1 coffee, and may have to incorporate that into my life. Very nice Betsy!

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      September 19, 2015 at 7:22 pm

      Hi Cheryl – You two would really enjoy a visit. And yes, we know about being “warned” not to visit places, too. 😉

      Reply
  32. Nathalie says

    September 20, 2015 at 8:30 pm

    Travel to Bosnia and Herzegovina seems like the thing to do these days and it’s no wonder from your beautiful pictures.
    I also loved the 1 2 3 coffee rule and think it should be implemented internationally!

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      September 20, 2015 at 11:03 pm

      Hi Nat – I hope travel to B-H is the thing to do. They need our tourism dollars. It’s a wonderful destination.

      Reply
  33. alison abbott says

    September 20, 2015 at 8:38 pm

    Thanks for the history lesson. You always have such a wonderful way of weaving important cultural information into your posts. I look forward to reading more about this area and appreciate your getting the word out about a place that could really benefit from the tourism dollars. Like you and Pete, I enjoy getting a bit further off the beaten path and it’s good to read about the safely issue from someone whose actually been to Bosnia and Herzegovenia!

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      September 20, 2015 at 11:07 pm

      Hi Alison – Thank you. I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend Bosnia and Herzegovina to anyone. You’re right that it’s not the first place that people think of when visiting the Balkans, but getting the word out may perhaps influence other travelers to visit. We sure hope so.

      Reply
  34. Rossana Wyatt says

    September 21, 2015 at 4:47 am

    Such beauty… Incredible country, would love to visit someday. You are right… fear stops people from experiencing amazing places.

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      November 20, 2015 at 3:09 am

      Hi Rossana – Hope you get to visit!

      Reply
  35. Nita says

    November 18, 2015 at 8:39 pm

    Great post with extensive information! When I was in Dubrovnik a couple of years back, I too got a chance to take a day trip to Mostar. The old town was somehow charming. Then we wandered a bit outside and saw so many buildings that had bullet holes and remnants of the war – quite sad! But overall, it was a wonderful experience. Such a beautiful and underrated country. Enjoyed your article 🙂

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      November 20, 2015 at 3:09 am

      Hi Nita – Thank you so much. We hope to return.

      Reply
  36. Bruno B says

    March 17, 2016 at 9:57 am

    Mostar for me was one of the most impactful places I’ve ever been! The clash of cultures is impressive, but I gotta say there is a weird athmosphere going on. It seems the city is still not with peace with itself!

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      March 17, 2016 at 6:11 pm

      Hi Bruno – Interesting that you would pick up on that vibe. We did sense uneasiness, but attributed it more to difficult economy and low tourism numbers. Bosnia and Herzegovina is struggling. The benefit to travelers is that our money goes farther and our presence is very much appreciated.

      Reply
  37. Dani says

    April 20, 2016 at 8:43 am

    Kudos to you. Your blogs are great…..by far the most informative intelligent blogs I have read . You give so much insightful information and trust me I have read hundreds and hundreds of blogs.Great job

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      April 20, 2016 at 7:17 pm

      Hi Dani – Thank you so very much.

      Reply
  38. Masud Hannan says

    February 9, 2019 at 10:27 pm

    Yes, Best blog on Bosnia. We are planning trip this summer. Can I rent a car from say Croatia or say Austria and travel to Mostar, Sarajevo etc. Are there cross border issues you are aware of. I plan to spend Two days in Bosnia. Thanks, Hannan

    Reply
    • Betsy Wuebker says

      February 11, 2019 at 8:17 am

      Hi Hannan – Yes, it’s possible to rent a car in Croatia and take to Bosnia. Check with your rental agency for details.

      Reply

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Hi, I’m Betsy. I traveled the world full time for close to four years and have visited more than 50 countries. If you’re a curious and thoughtful traveler, you’re in the right place. No matter if you’re new to travel or an old hand, I can help you refine your bucket list!

Here’s to a happier, travel-centered life!

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