“But here, enough talking, let’s taste,” Ivica Matosevic smiles as he pours his Malvasia.
We’re sitting at a picnic table on the veranda of Ivica’s wine cellar in Kruncici, the middle of Istria. It’s the beginning of my love affair with Malvasia.
Matosevic vineyard in Istria. Photo Credit Matosevic Wines
“The only reason I got into this business was so I could play more music and drink more wine with my friends.” – Ivica Matosevic
To hear him tell the story, Ivica Matosevic (pronounced ee-VEET-sa ma-TOE-sheh-vitch) is an unlikely vintner. While at the University of Udeme in Italy, he was more about rock’n’roll, admittedly clueless about wines. But the Italians around him knew theirs. Ivica’s curiosity was piqued, along with an optimistic and rather romantic entrepreneurial vision. Finished with his doctorate in the mid-1990s, and having completed several sommelier courses, he went back home to Istria, where he co-founded an association of wine enthusiasts, “Kalavonja.” Kalavonja get-togethers were held in various Istrian restaurants with food-wine pairings, promoting the “new Istria’s” creative blend of traditional ingredients with innovative culinary techniques.
Ivica gives us an introduction to his Malvasia and philosophy
Malvasia was part of that scene. One of the signature wines of Istria, malvazija istarska (in Croatian) is part of a larger family of grapes also grown in Italy, Slovenia and Portugal. Cuttings are thought to have been brought from Crete (now part of Greece) to Istria by its Venetian conquerors. Mentioned by Shakespeare in Richard III (as “malmsey”), it was one of three major wine exports from the region in the Middle Ages. In Italy and Portugal, grapes in the Malvasia family are still grown to make sweet dessert wines, blends, and madeiras. Croatian Malvasia is described as “medium to strong, rounded and harmonic,” with dominating fruit aromas of apple, plum or apricot. When mature, there may be a certain bitter almond taste. Malvasia cultivars can be grouped by age and provenance with pinot and gamay varieties.
In 1996, Matosevic’s Malvasia 1995 won the silver medal at Vinistra, a fledgling local wine festival which would grow into a highly respected regional showcase years later under Ivica’s direction. The following year, he took gold. “It was then that I became no longer a hobbyist.” In Kruncici where we are sipping on his Malvasia, Matosevic established his cellar, which had a very good first year in 1997, winning five medals. Ivica was crowned in a triumvirate of top young Istrian producers along with Franko Kozlovic and Moreno Digrassi. This proved to be portentous.
The tasting cellar’s shady veranda. Photo Credit: Matosevic Wines
On a very hot morning in the middle of Istria, you might think the last thing you’d want to be drinking is wine. If so, you’d be wrong. Matosevic’s Malvasia Alba 2011 is the golden color of sun on ripened wheat; the taste is fresh and lightly fruitful, as perfect for summer as your favorite pinot grigio might be. Ivica shows us how to confidently twirl the glass and release its layered aromas: notes of acacia, apple and almond. Described on the website with classic understatement as “a typical Istrian wine,” the Alba 2011 is from another portentous year.
Light and golden Malvasia
In October, 2011, the James Beard Foundation honored Ivica as the first Croatian winemaker to present at a dinner called “Mystical Malvasia.” Cliff Rames, Sommelier for the Caudal Vinotherapie Spa at the Plaza Hotel and founder of Wines of Croatia, described the event as paying homage to Ivica and his wines. It was also an opportunity to introduce Croatian wines to a diverse variety of guests. That same month, Oz Clarke dedicated his editorial in Decanter Magazine to Istrian Malvasia, suggesting Malvasia is to Croatia what Sauvignon Blanc is to New Zealand.
Suddenly Malvasia, and Croatian wines in general, were on global radar. Food Republic, Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast all sang praise. In the beginning of 2012, Shermans Travel, Fodor’s, Reader’s Digest, USA Today and CNN proclaimed Istria on their “best” lists. Throughout 2013 and 2014 the kudos and awards stacked up from publications and juried panels alike. Austrian crystal manufacturer Georg Riedel gave Malvasia its glass, perhaps the greatest honor a wine could boast.
Nowadays, you can find Ivica’s wine on the menu at such storied establishments as The Fat Duck (3 Michelin stars) and the Mandarin Hotel in London, Australian venues such St. Crispin and Brooks in Melbourne, Monopole in Sydney, restaurants in New York and Chicago. . . and at his cellar’s picnic table in Kruncici, where we sit.
“In making wine, we try to make it good, better than usual, so we could tell its story with a smile on our faces.” – Ivica Matosevic
Natalia and Ivica in conversation in front of my glass of Malvasia
The insects sing and Maks the Rottweiler barks from the side of his house under a big tree in the yard, happy as we are to sit in the shade. “Let’s try the 2014,” says Ivica, and no one demurs. It’s paler than the 2011, reminding me of bleached days in the sun on the shores of the North American Great Lakes. My tablemates and the grapes in this wine have been raised on the 45th parallel, as was I. We’ve looked at the same stars and kept the same daylight hours across the world from each other.
Matosevic’s Label
This latest Malvasia is lighter, with only the merest hint of an almond aftertaste. It’s even more refreshing than its older sibling to me. Ivica tells us Malvasia is a wine meant to be enjoyed in the relative now as far as wines go, quickly processed in stainless steel, the grapes not macerated, its flavor kept softened and non-acidic. Cliff Rames calls it “straightforward, early-drinking, food-friendly, ‘naked’ and zesty.” The older Malvasia gets, the darker its color and the more intense its flavor.
“Which one do you prefer?” I ask young Anastasia, seated next to me. Shyly, she answers: the older 2011. “The important thing is to be honest with yourself,” says Ivica, mostly meaning with your opinion of the wine. “Don’t worry about what other people say. Know what you like and keep tasting.” It’s good advice at any age.
The time draws near for us to be on our way. Barely noon, and we’ve tasted three glasses. Ivica’s website opens with “winemaking is a dream with a deadline” and we have ours to make. Later, back in Rovinj, and then in Split, Korcula and Dubrovnik, I am happy to find Malvasia made by each of the three Vinistra award-winners from almost twenty years ago – Matosevic, Kozlovic, Digrassi. I think of Ivica Matosevic, the winemaker who just wanted to drink and make music with his friends and am very glad that he did.
Ivica Matosevic, Istrian winemaker. Photo Credit: Matosevic Wines
“For as long as there is Malvasia, there is hope for all of us.” – Ivan Nino Jakovcic, former president of Istria.
Disclosure: We were the guests of Matosevic Cellars for this tasting through the arrangements of Natalia Marcelja of Solen Travel Agency. All opinions are our own.
Pinnable Image:
Tips and Practicalities:
Istria can be reached via RyanAir (Pula Airport) and bus from Rijeka. Renting a car might be best if you’re coming from other parts of Croatia. Croatian highways are modern and easy to navigate. Vintage city centers can be tight with limited parking options. We had good luck with ORYX Rent A Car. Note that there is an upcharge for one-way returns.
Your personal wine-tasting and other Istria experiences can be arranged by Natalia or one of her colleagues at Solen Travel Agency, Strossmayerova ul. 2, 51000 Rijeka Croatia. Tel. +385 51 371 587. Email solen@solen.hr.
We stayed in Natalya’s lovely rental apartment in Rovinj: Apartment Crveni Mak, conveniently located just outside of old town proper in a vintage neighborhood, this charming house has a rare large garden. The apartment includes a small kitchen, dining area, and private bath with free Wi-Fi. Please note there is no vehicular traffic allowed in this part of Rovinj. The walk from the bus station with luggage is about 10 minutes, and the apartment is located up two flights of stairs.
Vina Matoševic d.o.o.— wine cellar Kruncici, Kruncici 2, 52448 Sv. Lovre?. Tel. +385 52 448 558 The wine cellar is located about 20 minutes by car from Rovinj.
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Ivica Matosevic seems to be a man passionate about his work and completely happy with his life. Your photos show Istria’s countryside to be picturesque and beautiful and I’d love to spend a few hours swirling some Malvasi in my glass and sipping fine wine. Sounds like a perfect day in a perfect setting!
Hi Anita – Great perception in your comment. Ivica is a very contented man, from all appearances, and gives off the impression that he regularly pinches himself just to make sure he isn’t dreaming all this fun.
I hadn’t heard of Malvasia but after reading this I simply have to try it! Ivica’s passion for wine making really shines through
Hi Suze – You’ll love it. I think in London, you’ll have a good chance of encountering it without having to go to The Fat Duck or the Mandarin, too. Although why not? 😉
The vineyards and wineries of Istria were a complete surprise to us. I wasn’t expecting such modern wineries or such fabulous wines. Unfortunately we didn’t visit the Matosevic Winery but we did enjoy a glass or three of Malvasia during our time there! How fabulous to be able to meet Ivica, hear his story and learn about his wine from the master himself.
Hi Jenny – Yes, we were really fortunate. It’s a memorable moment that endeared Istria to me all the more.
I’ve always wanted to visit Istria and try some of the amazing food and wine there. I’m sure the wine experience must have been amazing. Wonderful post!
Hi Noel – I wasn’t going to let the opportunity slip past and we deliberately allocated more time in Istria than on any other stop. Turned out to be the right decision, and we’d return in a heartbeat.
Oh my goodness, I loved learning about Istria and Matosevic wines. How exciting to receive a James Beard and be found on the lists of such highly acclaimed global restaurants. I would love to visit!
Hi Suzanne – You’d love Istria, and I know you’d love Matosevic Malvasia. Natalia told me in Istria they’re fond of reminding everyone how Tuscany copied them. 😉
I loved this post because it made the place so human and introduced me to Croatian wines. Beautiful job on this one!
Hi Jackie – Thanks! I’m betting you might be able to find Croatian wines in the Mani? It’s not that far away.
Ivica has definitely found his niche, I would love to his visit his vineyard, and sit with a glass of Malvasia. Meanwhile, I’ll keep my eyes open for it here in Korea. However, I’m sure that would be like finding a needle in a haystack.
Yeah, Nancie, I’m not having any luck here in Fiji either! For some reason, only Aussie wines. 😉
What an incredible back story and rationale for drinking wine in the morning:-)
Hi Irene – Right? As if we needed one, but still. A very memorable experience to be sure. 🙂
I am glad you had such an endearing experience with the man and his wine. Endearing enough for you to forget the 19-minute walk with luggage and the subsequent struggle on the stairs! I wonder if they also produce good reds?
Hi Carol – They do. We tasted one called Grimalda. I’m not a red wine drinker, but I thought it tasted great.
Matosevic Vineyards look and sound wonderful. I am not very familiar with Croatian wines and enjoyed reading your descriptions of your tastings. I also like to hear the stories of how vintners came to be vintners.
Hi Donna – Glad you enjoyed it. 🙂
Your description of vintage neighborhood, charming house with garden…. my thoughts just turned into ” I want to be there’.
Hi Karla – You’d love it!
I haven’t been to Istria, or tried Malvasia wine, but they both look lovely. Days out at vineyards are always enjoyable!
Hi Karen – They are indeed. It was a terrific day.
I haven’t heard of Malvasia but from your accounts I should definitely try it! Seems as if Ivica is particularly content in what he does and it shines through in your photos. Loved your pics of Istria too.
Hi Jo – You should! Let me know if you encounter it in West Australia!
I wouldn’t mind meeting Malvasia myself!
Hi Nat – Now that we’re such great friends, I’d be happy to introduce you. 🙂
The wine becomes more interesting when you learn something about the history of the vineyard, and even more so when you get to know the man behind the vinyard. Thanks for making Malvasia and Matosevic wines come alive!
Hi Denis – True, indeed. Thanks!
My sister and I are plotting a return to that area and may have to find our way to Malvasia if we do get our act together. Once you learn that you can drink wine before the sun is very high up in the sky you never forget that (at least on vacation – at home it could become a problem)!
Hi Kay – When you do, be in touch with Natalia for an insider’s experience. You’re right about wine in the morning. Someone has to do it!
I’ve never done a wine tasting before lunch. I’m not a morning person to begin with. I’m not sure I’d be able to remember enough to write a coherent blog post, let alone an elegant one like yours. Croatia remains on my “must visit” list.
Hi Suzanne – Malvasia is so light and refreshing, you might surprise yourself. And yes, Croatia is a must: “must return” in our case. 🙂
I would love to have a glass of white Malvasia right now as well. Never heard of Croatian wine before, it’s good to know they are on the wine market as well. Will be on the look out for it 🙂
Hi Lena – Raise a glass for me when you do! 🙂
A chilled glass of Malvasia would taste divine on this very hot late summer Chicago day. Your story took me right to Istria and enjoying that golden wine along with you. The way you described the color of the wine made my mouth water. When we get to Croatia Istria will be a must taste destination.
Hi Sue – With your expertise and focus, you’ll wonder what took you so long! White and black truffles, seafood and pasta to go along with that wine!
When I first saw this post I thought I was going to meet Malaysia — but no. Wine is wonderful thing: almost every part of the world has its own local style, and usually a couple of its own special grape varieties. I’ve tasted wines everywhere from Chile to Germany’s Rheingau — maybe someday I’ll get to taste Ivica’s malvasia.
Hi Paul – Without my glasses I would have thought the same thing! When you go to Croatia, make malvasia a priority (or be on the lookout on any wine list).
I love how wine is so much more than just a drink, it’s a deep culture, history and passions. It must be so inspirational to meet and speak to someone so passionate about what they do and in such wonderful surroundings.
Hi Nic – It really was an inspiring and fascinating story. I think Ivica is a little too self-deprecating, though. 😉
What a fun interview with Ivica Matosevic you had! I enjoyed some Croatian wines when I was there a few months ago, but missed these — I guess I’ll just have to go back!
Hi Patti – It really was a wonderful experience, and we’d love to return, too. Let’s go!
Like Paul, I also thought I would read about Malaysia and just assumed the title was a typo but golly, this was something deeper and much more cultured! Ivica seems so passionate in what he does and you guys clearly absorbed that. Do you plan on going back soon?
Hi Anne – Thank you so much. We would love to return to Croatia. We’ll be in Europe again next year and perhaps then.
I love wine tasting, which makes California an even greater place to live. I am always honest about my choices even if they are the cheapest bottle. I found a $22 bottle of locally made California wine that has won my heart. It’s my go-to most weekends 😉
Hi Lesley – It’s always good to know your favorites!
Ooohhhh, Malvasia is kind of intriguing. I am pretty much amazed with people who get into the wine business. I think it’s quite tough! I met a lot of French people who moved to Argentina to be in the Malbec business and they told me it’s not that easy! Thanks for sharing this post, Betsy and for teaching us how to say Ivica’s name the classy (and right) way! Xx
Hi Trisha – I am always interested in the back story and motivations people have for choosing their careers, and wine making is definitely a tough business. Glad you enjoyed meeting Malvasia and Ivica, too. 🙂
I love reading about passionate people like Ivica. Drinking wine and making music with friends-now that is a dream worth pursuing! Thanks for sharing his story and providing interesting information about Malvasia. I had never heard of it until now, but it sounds delicious!
Hi Jennifer – I’d never heard of Malvasia either. I’m a fan of light whites (like Pouilly Fuisse and Soave), so it was a great match. And yes, funny how things grow from simple pleasures.
Wow I grew up in a winery and my dad makes Malvasia from Sitges a small town south of Barcelona which is well known for the few pls rings in very small amounts. In fact he produces the Malvasia grapes owned by the church! Super interesting to read all a bout I feel like I now know so much more about something which was simple and present when I grew up. Will have to investigate how it made it to Sitges!
Hi Mar – What a fun connection, which bears out my research that the grapes are found throughout the northern Mediterranean. Thanks so much for sharing – I’d love to try your dad’s wine someday!
I grabbed your pin so that I can find this place when I visit Croatia. So jealous of your day. It sounded like a really fun day and I would love to meet the owner and taste his wine.
Hi Jen – So glad we could inspire you. You’ll love Istria, I’m sure, just as much as we do, and Ivica would love for you to taste his wine.
Oooooo I’m going to Croatia in a couple of weeks. I must try some while i’m there!
Hi Tara – Oh, you lucky duck! Have at least one (and preferably more than one) glass for me!
Hi Betsy!
We are glad you enjoyed your stay in our tremendous still-to-discover Republic of Croatia. As you already know, our little country is well known for its enormous number of truffles (black and whites ones), gourmet selection of Mediterranean organic food, top-notch quality olive oil and wines (as Malvasia of Matoševic winery being one of the highest ranked wines), over 3 thousand years of interesting history (as many producers chose various Croatian cities to film their series and movies) and many more intriguing disclosures all around the country!
Croatian doors will be always open to the travel and discovery lovers as you are dear Betsy!
Hi Guys! So wonderful to hear from you, we miss you! And yes, you’re so right to mention all the wonderful things Istria and greater Croatia have to offer. We’ll be visiting those topics real soon! Love to all!
I’ve never heard of Malvasia so thanks for sharing more info in your post. It sounds like a great wine – I do love some white wine made with love and care.
Hi Sophie – I hope you get to try some. It’s my new favorite and I wish we could get it here in Fiji. I keep looking!
The more I travel, the more amazing wines I discover, sometimes in the most unlikely spots. There’s absolutely nothing wrong with French or Australian wines, of course, but I feel sorry for people who think that good wine can only come from a few select regions. They are missing out on so much!
Hi Vanessa – Too true! Especially when there is the opportunity to meet an approachable and infectious-personalitied winemaker! 🙂
You can tell by the smile on his face that Ivica Matosevic is a man passionate about his work and loves winemaking. You have been discovering such off the beaten path destinations-Istria’s landscape is beautiful and I’ve not been to Croatia. Certainly would enjoy looking out over the land and enjoying a bit of Malvasia. Thanks for the tip.
Hi Alison – Yes, he’s got that twinkle in his eye which conveys he must know the secret of good living, doesn’t he? You would really like Istria, perhaps more than Italy I suspect. Keep me in the loop with your plans. 🙂
Oooh I’d love to try this wine! It sounds so awesome. There are so many amazing wines from around the world and I am so happy when I get introduced to a new one 🙂
Hi Lauren – Me, too! I was so pleasantly surprised at first and by the end of the tasting, I’d made a new favorite. 🙂
Loved reading this… as I’m in Croatia right now, specifically on the island of Korcula. Just stocked up with some local wine from the market. Enjoyed reading of your tasting experience, as now I will take Ivica’s advice and swirl my glass with confidence as I savor the wonderful aromas and flavors of this delicious Croatian wine!
Hi Toccara – Jealous!!! We loved Korcula and have a post (or more) coming! 🙂
This sounds like a love affair that could last a lifetime 🙂 Ivica seems like a very special person and his passion for the wine is definitely infectious!
Hi Lois – Oh, I’m pretty sure this love affair will. 🙂